These wiring instructions are for our 50A Electric Brewery Control Panel for 30+ gallons for countries where the mains power is 220-240V only (120V is not available) such as Europe, Asia, Australia, and New Zealand.
Up to two elements are used per kettle (instead of one) with one kettle powered at a time. If you're consistently producing 30 gallons or more, or think you may want to in the future, this is the panel for you. You may use a single heating element per kettle for now and add more in the future. Also useful for those who want faster ramp/heating times with any batch size. Perfect for 1-3 bbl pilot systems.
Muddy York Brewing Co. using our 50A control panel for 30+ gallons on their 3.5 bbl setup. (More pictures)
Lochiel Brewing using our 50A control panel for 30+ gallons on their 1 bbl brewhouse. (More pictures)
When would I want a 50A control panel for 30+ gallons?
Our standard 30A control panel is adequate for brewers looking to produce up to around 20 gallons of finished product. A single 5500W element is used in both the boil kettle and hot liquor tank.
To produce 30 gallons or more, some brewers prefer to have more power for faster heating (ramp) times and to ensure a vigorous boil regardless of ambient temperature. With the 50A control panel for 30+ gallons the single 5500W elements are replaced with two 4500-5500W elements for a total of 9000-11000W per kettle. Consider this control panel for if you're interested in producing more than 20 gallons of finished product and wish to speed up your brew day by reducing heat times. If you're consistently producing 30 gallons or more then we highly recommend this control panel be used.
Only brewing smaller (5-20 gallon) batches now but may want to go bigger in the future? Consider this 50A control panel for 30+ gallons. It will let you use one element per kettle now, and and add a second in the future for more power. If you're looking for the fastest heating/ramp times possible on even smaller batches, consider using this control panel and adding two heating elements in the hot liquor tank.
Are there any downsides to using this control panel?
Cost is the only downside. 50A components and wiring are more expensive than similar 30A rated items. Unless you want to consistently brew over 20 gallons at once or wish to upgrade in the future, we recommend sticking with the original 30 amp control panel design. Many brewers producing 20 gallons per batch are happily using 5500W per kettle with the standard 30A control panel. Some 1 bbl (31 gallon) brewers are also successfully using the standard 30A control panel. Others who only occasionally want to brew larger batches will brew two separate batches and combine them.
Can I use this control panel to brew less than 20 gallons?
Yes. More power simply means faster heating. Some brewers will use a 50A control panel to be future proof. It gives them the capability to add more power with a larger future setup without having to replace or modify the control panel. If one of the heating elements will not be submersed when brewing smaller batches, that heating element should be unplugged from the control panel. The control panel will still operate normally.
Can I unplug one of the heating elements when making smaller batches?
Yes. See above.
How much faster does 9000-11000W heat compared to 5500W?
A 5500W heating element such as the one we use with our standard 30A control panel will raise the temperature of 1 gallon of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit in approximately 1.6 seconds. 9000W reduces this time to 1.0 seconds. 11000W reduces this time to 0.8 seconds.
Some real world examples:
- Heat 30 gallons of strike water from 70F to 155F: 68 minutes with 5500W, 42 minutes with 9000W, 34 minutes with 11000W
- Bring 24 gallons of wort from 150F to boil: 40 minutes with 5500W, 24 minutes with 9000W, 20 minutes with 11000W
What changes are needed to upgrade from 30A to 50A?
All of the 30A devices (and wiring) in the control panel are upgraded to 50A and we add one extra element to both the Boil Kettle and hot liquor tank. The 30A wall outlet is replaced with a 50A wall outlet. See below for complete details on the changes required.
Do I still need to use a ground fault interrupter (GFI)?
Yes. A GFI is required for safety reasons. In most cases this will be done with a 50A/240V 2-pole GFI breaker in the electrical breaker panel. For more information on GFIs see STEP 1: Supply power of our Control Panel build instructions.
Do I need a larger enclosure?
Two extra element receptacles are required on the bottom of the enclosure. There is room on the standard 16x16x8" enclosure we use if you're careful about placement (see below for pictures). Consider using a larger 20x20x8" enclosure for more room to work in. Keep in mind that the control layout may have the be re-thought if a larger enclosure is used and the handles may not be long enough. Our pre-built control panels and kits all use the same 16x16x8" enclosure.
Can a buy a control panel kit that includes all the parts I need already included?
Yes. We can supply control panel kits for any country including those where only 240V is available (outside North America). We can even pre-punch the enclosure for you to save work. See our control panel order page.
Can I buy this control panel completely assembled and tested?
Why are these changes needed? I thought the heating elements ran at 240V even in North America?
Countries with 120V power have the following power connections available:
- HOT A 120V
- HOT B 120V
While the heating elements run at 240V, many of the components in our control panel (PIDs, timer, buzzer, doorbell transformers, relays, and most lights) run at 120V by using the NEUTRAL line together with one of the two HOT lines. The heating elements run at 240V by using both HOT lines together.
Countries with 220-240V power have the following power connections available:
- GROUND (sometimes called EARTH)
- HOT 220-240V (sometimes called LIVE or ACTIVE)
120V is not possible so all components must run at 220-240V. This means that the buzzer, doorbell transformers, relays, and most lights must be replaced with 220-240V versions. The PIDs and timer continue to work as they work anywhere from 90 to 264V.
Wiring changes are required as there is only one 220-240V HOT line instead of two 120V HOT lines.
Does it matter if the power is 50 or 60Hz?
No. The frequency of the mains power does not matter. All of the components work at 50 or 60Hz.
Do I still need to use a ground fault interrupter (GFI)?
Yes. A GFI is required for safety reasons. For more information on GFIs see STEP 1: Supply power of our Control Panel build instructions.
Does it matter if I have 220V, 230V, or 240V available in my country?
No. Anywhere from 200-240V will work. If running at lower than 240V the heating element power output will be slightly lower. For example, a 5500W / 240V heating element running at 208V will output 4160W and draw 19.9 amps. At 230V it will output 5053 watts and draw 22.0 amps. All will work perfectly well.
I only have 3-phase 208V or 400V available. Can I use this panel?
Maybe. You may use a single phase of the 208V or 400V 3-phase system: On most 3-phase 208V power systems 208V is available between any two of the phases (HOT lines) while on most 3-phase 400V power systems 230V is available between any of the phases (HOT lines) and NEUTRAL. Best to confirm with your electrician to be sure what is possible. Both 208V and 230V will work instead of 240V but keep in mind that the heating elements are meant to be run at 240V so at 208V or 230V the power output will be reduced slightly (see previous question). Note that on most 3-phase 208V power systems 120V will also be available between any of the phases (HOT lines) and NEUTRAL so our standard control panel design can also work as both 208V and 120V would be available.
Do the heating elements need to change too?
No. The heating elements as documented on this website will continue to work as they are meant to be used with 240V. No changes are required. If running lower than 240V, power output will be slightly lower (see previous question).
The wiring diagrams below replace the standard 30A control panel wiring diagrams, where changes are required.
It is important that you still read the instructions for our standard 30A control panel build to make sure nothing important is missed. Often hints, tips or caveats are given. Do not build only using the wiring diagrams and instructions below if you're new to wiring.
The connector has 4 spades (2 HOTS, 1 NEUTRAL, and GROUND) but only 3 will be used here as there is only one HOT line (not 2). Countries with 220-240V power will use different 50 amp wall outlets. A 3 conductor cord (usually 6 gauge) with a 50 amp / 240V plug suitable for your country/region should be used between the connector and the 50 amp wall outlet. Specific instructions on how to wire the wall outlet cannot be provided given that different countries will have different standards. The wall outlet ground should connect to the copper side shield of the connector, the wall outlet HOT to the X point on the connector, and the wall outlet NEUTRAL to the Y point of the connector. The circuit driving the wall outlet should be protected by a 50A / 240V GFI breaker.
The power in receptacle and relay are changed to handle the larger 50A (resistive) load. 50A relays are difficult to find so a contactor is used instead. A relay and contactor (the terms are often used interchangeably) work the same way but contactors are generally rated for higher power. Note that a contactor rated for 40A inductive load (as presented by compressors in air conditioners or similar) is able to drive a 50A resistive load as presented by our heating elements. So if you find a 40A "inductive" contactor it's likely ok to use at 50A "resistive". Confirm that the model you intend on ordering can support 50A "resistive". Some of the 10 gauge wire is replaced with 6 gauge to handle the 50A load. Any ring terminals or connectors (if used) for connecting the 6 ga wire must also be rated for at least 50 amps. The contactor must use a 240V coil instead of 120V.
As mentioned above, countries with 220-240V power will use different 50 amp wall outlets so make sure that the HOT is connected to the power in connector's X point and NEUTRAL is connected to power in connector's Y point. One of the connectors on the 50A power in receptacle will not be used (which is fine).
The fuse holder minimum voltage rating must be increased from 125V to at least 240V.
Two extra ground wires are required for the two new element receptacles. The ground wire from the power input receptacle is increased from 10 to 6 gauge. To allow enough room on the enclosure ground post for all these ground wires we recommend using a 10 terminal ground bar on the back plate. Make sure to connect the door and enclosure ground posts to the ground bar as well. Any ring terminals or connectors (if used) for connecting the 6 ga wire must also be rated for at least 50 amps.
As mentioned above, countries with 220-240V power will use different 50 amp wall outlets so make sure that the GROUND is connected to the power in connector's G point.
*Many doorbell transformers will support both 120V and 240V on the input side. Since these are approximately 10:1 step down transformers, when fed 240V (instead of 120V), the output voltage will be 24V (instead of 12V) which is low enough as the AC to DC power supplies can accept anywhere from 4 to 30V on the input side.
As per the Standard 30A Electric Brewery Control Panel wiring instructions, make sure to adjust the DC power supplies to +5VDC or slightly below before connecting to the meters as otherwise the meters may be damaged.
Wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):
The pump lights must be changed from 120V to 240V. The pumps themselves *must* be 220-240V. 120V pumps will not work. The pump receptacles on the control panel must be changed from L5-15 (125V) to L6-15 (250V) and the pump plugs must then also be changed to L6-15 to match.
Timer and alarm wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):
The last 30A relay is changed to a 50A (resistive) contactor. Two extra element receptacles are added and wired in parallel (not series) to the existing elements. Some of the 10 gauge wire is replaced with 6 gauge to handle the 50A load. 30A fuses are added to protect the 30A element receptacles and wiring. Why? On the standard 30A control panel the 30A circuit breaker in the electrical panel wall protects the 10 ga wiring so additional fuses are not required. With this 50A panel the 50A circuit breaker in the electrical panel protects the 6ga wiring but we now need to add protection for the smaller 10ga wiring between the contactors and the kettles (both inside the panel and out). Any ring terminals or connectors (if used) for connecting the 6 ga wire must also be rated for at least 50 amps.
Note: With some contactor brands you may find it difficult to fit the two large 6 gauge red wires in the same screw hole at the top input #2 on the HLT contactor. Do not under any circumstances trim back strands of the wire to make them fit! Instead, use a power distribution block. Our control panel kits include this extra part (when required). Simply attach the 6 ga wire from the POWER IN CONTACTOR into the big end of distribution block and then two 6 ga wires out the other end that lead to the BOIL and HLT contactors.
SAFE START INTERLOCK
The relays/contactors must use 240V coils instead of 120V.
The power in receptacle and relay were changed to handle the larger 50A load as described previously.
The POWER KEY switch was previously wired directly to the POWER IN CONTACTOR coil (per the POWER INPUT wiring diagram above). This wire must be removed otherwise the interlock feature will be bypassed and the control panel will power up regardless of how the three other switches are set.
Previously the WORT PUMP and WATER PUMP switches only had their normally open (NO) contactor wired up (per the PUMPS wiring diagram above). We are now adding a normally closed (NC) contactor beside the existing contactor. Only the new wiring is shown here. The existing wiring does not change.
Previously the ELEMENT SELECT switch contained two normally open (NO) contactor that were wired up (per the HEATING ELEMENTS wiring diagram above). We are now adding two normally closed (NC) contactors on top of the existing contactors. Only the new wiring is shown here. The existing wiring does not change.
As per the standard safe start interlock instructions for the 30A panel, the two normally closed (NC) contactors that are added to the Element Select switch are screwed on top of the existing normally open (NO) contactors as shown in the picture below. Use two of the unused NC contactors from any of the other switches (other than the pump switches of course).
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