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50A Control Panel back to back (240V only, for int'l use)

 
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2020 12:55 pm    Post subject: 50A Control Panel back to back (240V only, for int'l use) Reply with quote

50A Electric Brewery Control Panel for back to back batches (240V only, for international use)

This control panel is available in kit form through the control panel order page.





This addendum shows you how to adapt our Standard 30A Electric Brewery Control Panel in order to save time brewing back to back batches (one batch brewed immediately after another) for countries where the mains power is 220-240V only (120V is not available) such as Europe, Asia, Australia, and New Zealand.

A single element is still used in the boil kettle and hot liquor tank, but both may now be run at the same time allowing you to boil one batch while heating water for the next (or for cleaning/heat sanitizing the chiller).

This involves making changes to our standard 30A control panel build instructions to build a higher power 50A control panel, capable of running both the boil kettle and hot liquor tank at the same time, all at 220-240V (no 120V).

It is important that you still read the instructions for our standard 30A control panel build to make sure nothing important is missed. Often general hints, tips or caveats are given. Do not build only using the wiring diagrams and instructions below if you're new to wiring.





FAQ

When would I want a 50A back to back control panel?

Our standard 30A control panels (both the 120V/240V and 220-240V only versions) are capable of running one 5500W element at time. It does not have the power capacity to run both the boil kettle and hot liquor tank elements at the same time. If brewing two different batches immediately one after the another, time is saved with this back to back panel as it allows both elements to run at the same time so that you can heat up strike water in the hot liquor tank for the second batch while the boil kettle is used to boil the first batch. Note that if you are interested in back to back batches to brew more of the same beer, it makes more sense to use a 50A control panel for 30+ gallons and brew it all at the same time.

How much beer can I brew with the 50A back to back control panel?

We recommend that the 50A back to back control panel be used for batches up to and including 20 gallons in size. While larger batches can always be brewed, you may find the the time to heat water or bring wort to boil to be overly long.

Are there any downsides to using the 50A back to back control panel?

Cost is the only downside. 50A components and wiring are more expensive than similar 30A rated items. Unless you want to consistently brew back to back batches, we recommend sticking with the 30A control panel design.

Can I use this control panel to brew less than 20 gallons?

Yes. 20 gallons is only the recommended maximum to ensure reasonable heating times. Smaller volumes simply means faster heating times.

What changes are needed to upgrade from the 30A control panel to the 50A control panel for back to back batches?

Some of the 30A devices (and wiring) in the control panel are upgraded to 50A. The 30A wall outlet is replaced with a 50A wall outlet. The single 3-way ELEMENT SELECT switch is replaced with two separate ELEMENT ON/OFF switches. See below for complete details on the changes required.

Could I combine the 50A control panel for 30+ gallons and this 50A back to back control panel to brew 30+ gallons back to back?

Yes, but that would require a 100A control panel with different parts. 100A parts are considerably more expensive and harder to find as they are specialized (not standardized). Devices above 50A typically need to be hard-wired which itself introduces complexities and other concerns.

Do I still need to use a ground fault interrupter (GFI)?

Yes. A GFI is required for safety reasons. In most cases this will be done with a 50A/240V 2-pole GFI breaker in the electrical breaker panel. For more information on GFIs see STEP 1: Supply power of our Control Panel build instructions.

Do I need a larger enclosure?

No. In the back to back control panel the single 3-way ELEMENT SELECT switch is replaced with two separate ELEMENT ON/OFF switches such that the heating elements may be controlled independently. There is more than enough room in the standard 16x16x8" enclosure front panel for the additional switch. See below for a picture of the recommended layout.

Can a buy a control panel kit that includes all the parts I need already included?

Yes. We can supply control panel kits for any country including those where only 220-240V is available (outside North America). We can even pre-punch the enclosure for you to save work. See our control panel order page.

Can I buy this control panel completely assembled and tested?

At this time our 220-240V only control panels are only available as kits. See our control panel order page.

Why are these changes needed? I thought the heating elements ran at 240V even in North America?

Countries with 120V power have the following power connections available:

- GROUND
- NEUTRAL
- HOT A 120V
- HOT B 120V

While the heating elements run at 240V, many of the components in our control panel (PIDs, timer, buzzer, doorbell transformers, relays, and most lights) run at 120V by using the NEUTRAL line together with one of the two HOT lines. The heating elements run at 240V by using both HOT lines together.

Countries with 220-240V power have the following power connections available:

- GROUND (sometimes called EARTH)
- NEUTRAL
- HOT 220-240V (sometimes called LIVE or ACTIVE)

120V is not possible so all components must run at 220-240V. This means that the buzzer, doorbell transformers, relays, and most lights must be replaced with 220-240V versions. The PIDs and timer continue to work as they work anywhere from 90 to 264V.

Wiring changes are required as there is only one 220-240V HOT line instead of two 120V HOT lines.

Does it matter if the power is 50 or 60Hz?

No. The frequency of the mains power does not matter. All of the components work at 50 or 60Hz.

Do I still need to use a ground fault interrupter (GFI)?

Yes. A GFI is required for safety reasons. For more information on GFIs see STEP 1: Supply power of our Control Panel build instructions.

Does it matter if I have 220V, 230V, or 240V available in my country?

No. Anywhere from 200-240V will work. If running at lower than 240V the heating element power output will be slightly lower. For example, a 5500W / 240V heating element running at 208V will output 4160W and draw 19.9 amps. At 230V it will output 5053 watts and draw 22.0 amps. All will work perfectly well.

I only have 3-phase 208V or 400V available. Can I use this panel?

Maybe. You may use a single phase of the 208V or 400V 3-phase system: On most 3-phase 208V power systems 208V is available between any two of the phases (HOT lines) while on most 3-phase 400V power systems 230V is available between any of the phases (HOT lines) and NEUTRAL. Best to confirm with your electrician to be sure what is possible. Both 208V and 230V will work instead of 240V but keep in mind that the heating elements are meant to be run at 240V so at 208V or 230V the power output will be reduced slightly (see previous question). Note that on most 3-phase 208V power systems 120V will also be available between any of the phases (HOT lines) and NEUTRAL so our standard control panel design can also work as both 208V and 120V would be available.

Do the heating elements need to change too?

No. The heating elements as documented on this website will continue to work as they are meant to be used with 240V. No changes are required. If running lower than 240V, power output will be slightly lower (see previous question).



WIRING/PART CHANGES

The wiring diagrams below replace the standard 30A control panel wiring diagrams, where changes are required.

It is important that you still read the instructions for our standard 30A control panel build to make sure nothing important is missed. Often hints, tips or caveats are given. Do not build only using the wiring diagrams and instructions below if you're new to wiring.



POWER CORD / SUPPLY POWER

A Locking Grounded California-Style connector (125/250VAC, 50A) attaches to the control panel and supplies power:



The connector has 4 spades (2 HOTS, 1 NEUTRAL, and GROUND) but only 3 will be used here as there is only one HOT line (not 2). Countries with 220-240V power will use different 50 amp wall outlets. A 3 conductor cord with a 50 amp / 240V plug suitable for your country/region should be used between the connector and the 50 amp wall outlet. Specific instructions on how to wire the wall outlet cannot be provided given that different countries will have different standards. The wall outlet ground should connect to the copper side shield of the connector, the wall outlet HOT to the X point on the connector, and the wall outlet NEUTRAL to the Y point of the connector. The circuit driving the wall outlet should be protected by a 50A / 240V GFI breaker.



POWER INPUT

The power in receptacle and relay are changed to handle the larger 50A (resistive) load. 50A relays are difficult to find so a contactor is used instead. A relay and contactor (the terms are often used interchangeably) work the same way but contactors are generally rated for higher power. Note that a contactor rated for 40A inductive load (as presented by compressors in air conditioners or similar) is able to drive a 50A resistive load as presented by our heating elements. So if you find a 40A "inductive" contactor it's likely ok to use at 50A "resistive". Confirm that the model you intend on ordering can support 50A "resistive". Some of the 10 gauge wire is replaced with 6 gauge to handle the 50A load. Any ring terminals or connectors (if used) for connecting the 6 ga wire must also be rated for at least 50 amps. The contactor must use a 240V coil instead of 120V.

As mentioned above, countries with 220-240V power will use different 50 amp wall outlets so make sure that the HOT is connected to the power in connector's X point and NEUTRAL is connected to power in connector's Y point. One of the connectors on the 50A power in receptacle will not be used (which is fine).

The fuse holder minimum voltage rating must be increased from 125V to at least 240V.

Part changes:

(Qty: 1) Blue 22mm LED pilot light 220-240V AC/DC
(Qty: 1) 2 pole 50A (resistive) 240VAC contactor with 220-240VAC coil
(Qty: 1) Locking Grounded California-Style receptacle (125/250VAC, 50A)
(~1 foot) White 14 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(~1 foot) Black 6 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(~1 foot) White 6 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire

Wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):




GROUND

The ground wire from the power input receptacle is increased from 10 to 6 gauge. To allow enough room on the enclosure ground post for all these ground wires we recommend using a 10 terminal ground bar on the back plate. Make sure to connect the door and enclosure ground posts to the ground bar as well. Any ring terminals or connectors (if used) for connecting the 6 ga wire must also be rated for at least 50 amps.

As mentioned above, countries with 220-240V power will use different 50 amp wall outlets so make sure that the GROUND is connected to the power in connector's G point.

Part changes:

(Qty: 1) 7-10 terminal 50A ground bar (optional)
(~2 feet) Green 6 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire

Wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):




VOLT AND AMP METERS

The doorbell transformers must be changed from 120V to 240V* and the boil relay must use a 240V coil.

Part changes:

(Qty: 2) Doorbell transformer (220-240VAC input, 8-24VAC output, any wattage)*
(Qty: 1) 30A/240V DPDT or DPST relay with 220-240V AC coil

*Many doorbell transformers will support both 120V and 240V on the input side. Since these are approximately 10:1 step down transformers, when fed 240V (instead of 120V), the output voltage will be 24V (instead of 12V) which is low enough as the AC to DC power supplies can accept anywhere from 4 to 30V on the input side.

Volt and amp meter wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):




PUMPS

The pump lights must be changed from 120V to 240V. The pumps themselves *must* be 220-240V. 120V pumps will not work. The pump receptacles on the control panel must be changed from L5-15 (125V) to L6-15 (250V) and the pump plugs must then also be changed to L6-15 to match.

Part changes (control panel side):

(Qty: 2) Green 22mm LED pilot light 220-240V AC/DC
(Qty: 2) NEMA L6-15 (250VAC, 15A) twist lock electrical female receptacle

Part changes (pump side):

(Qty: 2) Pump with high temperature stainless steel housing (3/4" NPT male center inlet, 1/2" NPT male outlet, 230VAC)
(Qty: 2) NEMA L6-15 (250VAC, 15A) twist lock electrical male plug

Pump wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):




PID CONTROLLERS

There are no changes to the PID controller wiring.





TIMER AND ALARMS

The buzzer and light must be changed from 120V to 240V.

Part changes:

(Qty: 1) Buzzer, 22mm, 220-240V AC/DC
(Qty: 1) Red 22mm LED pilot light 220-240V AC/DC

Timer and alarm wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):




HEATING ELEMENTS

The 3-way ELEMENT SELECT switch is replaced with separate Boil Element and Hot Liquor Tank Element on/off switches so that the elements can be controlled independently. Some of the 10 gauge wire is replaced with 6 gauge to handle the 50A load. We are now supplying power to the elements from the NEUTRAL and HOT lines instead of the two HOT lines. 30A fuses are added to protect the 30A element receptacles and wiring. Why? On the standard 30A control panel the 30A circuit breaker in the electrical panel wall protects the 10 ga wiring so additional fuses are not required. With this 50A panel the 50A circuit breaker in the electrical panel protects the 6ga wiring but we now need to add protection for the smaller 10ga wiring between the contactors and the kettles (both inside the panel and out). Any ring terminals or connectors (if used) for connecting the 6 ga wire must also be rated for at least 50 amps.

The relays must use 240V coils instead of 120V.

Part changes:

(~2 feet) Black 6 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(~2 feet) White 6 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(~2 feet) Black 10 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(~2 feet) White 10 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(~1 foot) White 14 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(Qty: 4) 30A 250V fast blow fiber fuse
(Qty: 2) 30A 250V 2-pole fuse holder
(Qty: 2) 2 position maintained selector switch, 1 normally open (NO) contactor, 10A/240VAC
(Qty: 1) 30A/240V DPDT or DPST relay with 220-240V AC coil

Wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):


Note: With some relay/contactor brands you may find it difficult to fit 6 gauge and 10 gauge red wires in the same screw hole at the top input #2 on the HLT relay/contactor. Do not under any circumstances trim back strands of the wires to make them fit! Instead, use a 50A power distribution block. Our control panel kits include this extra part (when required). Simply attach the large 6 ga wire from the POWER IN CONTACTOR into the big end of distribution block and then two 10 ga wires out the other end that lead to the BOIL and HLT relays/contactors.



SAFE START INTERLOCK

The relays/contactors must use 240V coils instead of 120V.

The power in receptacle and relay were changed to handle the larger 50A load as described previously. The 3-way ELEMENT SELECT switch is replaced with separate Boil Element and Hot Liquor Tank Element on/off switches.

Please make sure to refer to the standard safe start interlock instructions before wiring the diagram below as some special changes may be required.

The POWER KEY switch was previously wired directly to the POWER IN RELAY coil (per the POWER INPUT wiring diagram above). This wire must be removed otherwise the interlock feature will be bypassed and the control panel will power up regardless of how the three other switches are set.

Previously the WORT PUMP and WATER PUMP switches only had their normally open (NO) contactor wired up (per the PUMPS wiring diagram above). We are now adding a normally closed (NC) contactor beside the existing contactor. Only the new wiring is shown here. The existing wiring does not change.

Part changes:

(Qty: 1) 10A 8-pin 2-pole ice cube plug-in relay with 220-240VAC coil

Safe start interlock wiring diagram (changes are shown in yellow):



How the panel operates remains identical. You may now simply run both heating elements at once.

Once completed, make sure to follow our control panel setup instructions.

Interested in building your own? See our control panel order page for kit pricing.

Cheers,

Kal


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