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HERMS vs direct heating in MLT

 
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terryzar@twc.com



Joined: 19 Mar 2019
Posts: 2
Location: Syracuse, NY


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 12:24 am    Post subject: HERMS vs direct heating in MLT Reply with quote


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I am planning to upgrade to a 3 vessel system and initially decided to go with a HERMS coil in the HLT. But since I am going electric, wouldn’t adding a heater to the MLT accomplish the same thing? Anyone tried this approach vs a HERMS? What is the downside of this approach? I know step mashing would be more difficult due to the time to heat all the wort volume (vs RIMS) on step changes, but isn’t it just as slow with HERMS as you have all the water volume in the HLT to heat?

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9839
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Janet's Brown, Maibock, Kolsch, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: West Coast Blaster (American Red IPA)


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum!

You cannot put heating elements in contact with grain as it will scorch. If you can somehow separate them and ensure adequate flow then that will work. However, since you’ll need water to sparge (assuming a fly sparged setup like the one outlined in this website), you might as well just heat in the HLT. Best of both worlds.

Cheers!

Kal

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terryzar@twc.com



Joined: 19 Mar 2019
Posts: 2
Location: Syracuse, NY


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the feedback. Definitely would use a false bottom and apply heat below that and fly sparse. I see advantages in less to clean ( no germs coil). What would I not be able to do by applying direct heat?
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dp Brewing Company



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 649
Location: Midwest

Drinking: Black Sheep NEIPA, Rye Not Today, Kick of the Irish

Working on: RIS Barrel Aged


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't recommend putting an element in the Mash Tun. That would mean you would have to purchase 3 elements and wire the box that way. I would also think you would have to give a really good cleaning every time.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9839
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Janet's Brown, Maibock, Kolsch, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: West Coast Blaster (American Red IPA)


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

terryzar@twc.com wrote:
Thank you for the feedback. Definitely would use a false bottom and apply heat below that and fly sparse. I see advantages in less to clean ( no germs coil). What would I not be able to do by applying direct heat?

As dp Brewing Company mentioned, I see no advantages to have 3 heating elements as per what you propose. It's a more complex setup, costs more, requires extra power, and actually requires MORE cleaning and work on brew day, not less.

If you follow my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP guide ( http://theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step ) you'll note that the HERMS coil doesn't need to be cleaned at all as I recommend fly sparging through it on the way to the MLT. Not only does this simplify cleaning it also ensures that you get that 1/2 gallon of very sweet wort out of the HERMS coil so your brewhouse efficiency goes up.

If you follow my design and use my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP process, nothing in the HLT needs cleaning as it only contained water and the HERMS coil was completely rinsed with hot sparge water. Keeping the MLT very simple (only a false bottom and hose) means that it's very easy to use and clean. The more 'stuff' you put in kettles that need cleaning (boil kettle and MLT) the wore work it is.

To understand how the boil kettle, MLT, and HLT are built per my design see my index of build articles here:

https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/building-your-brewery

Kal

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