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Update instructions to use DIN-based components ?

 
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peram



Joined: 23 Jan 2019
Posts: 4
Location: Oslo, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 2:35 pm    Post subject: Update instructions to use DIN-based components ? Reply with quote


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Hi.

Just wondering if you are planning to update the instructions to show how to build a controlpanel with DIN components. If that is not happening, can you provide a list of the "DIN-replacements" where appropiate ? I just feel the DIN-components looks more "clean"...

regs,

peram
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

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PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum!

The wiring diagrams are the same if you use DIN. What changes is that you use DIN based components instead (functionality is the same). Positioning of the items changes too of course as DIN goes on rails that are bolted to the backplane instead of components that are bolted to the backplane.

Functionality and quality is the same as standard bolt mounted parts. Advantages usually include smaller part size and quicker installation for an experienced user (those new to electrical work may find DIN rail initially confusing).

Cost to implement DIN can be higher as specialized tools are sometimes required (since DIN rail components do not accept spade or ring type terminals, wire ferrules must be first be attached to stranded wires using a wire ferrule crimper).

Our DIN based components are here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/din-rail-components

Cheers,

Kal

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peram



Joined: 23 Jan 2019
Posts: 4
Location: Oslo, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again.

I'm looking through the FAQ for adapting the kits to 240V and since the Doorbelltransformer is replaced with an adjustable DIN power supply (DINACDC) I'm trying to figure out what other components that can be replaced with DIN-based ones. Am I right in assuming that the "30A/240V DPDT or DPST relay with 220-240V AC coil" (RELAY30A240) can be replaced with "32A/250V DPST CONTACTOR, 220-240V AC COIL, DIN RAIL MOUNT" (DINCON32_240) ?

And that the 2 terminalstrips can be replaced with "30A TERMINAL BLOCK, 2 LEVEL, DIN RAIL MOUNT" (DINTB30-2) and "30A TERMINAL BLOCK JUMPER" (DINTB30JUMPER-2) in the needed numbers ?

Am I on the right track here ? any component replacements that I have missed or you would recommend ?

Maybe this should be moved to the "FAQ: Adapting for 220-240V countries" thread ?

regs,
peram
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peram wrote:
Am I right in assuming that the "30A/240V DPDT or DPST relay with 220-240V AC coil" (RELAY30A240) can be replaced with "32A/250V DPST CONTACTOR, 220-240V AC COIL, DIN RAIL MOUNT" (DINCON32_240) ?

Correct!
This one here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/ssrs-relays-contactors/products/32a-250v-dpst-contactor-220-240v-ac-coil-din-rail-mount

You can also use a higher current one too:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/ssrs-relays-contactors/products/63a-250v-dpst-contactor-220-240v-ac-coil-din-rail-mount

No harm in that.

In fact, we use 63A contactors for when 50A is needed.

Quote:
And that the 2 terminalstrips can be replaced with "30A TERMINAL BLOCK, 2 LEVEL, DIN RAIL MOUNT" (DINTB30-2) and "30A TERMINAL BLOCK JUMPER" (DINTB30JUMPER-2) in the needed numbers ?

Correct. There are many different ways to do this.

Quote:
Am I on the right track here ? any component replacements that I have missed or you would recommend ?

Completely up to you.

For our 30A panels we only replace the power supplies/tranformers with DIN rail. See this pic: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2400/0975/products/CPA30_5_abe0febe-b250-4834-98cc-b22c882c0f84_2048x.jpg

For other panels like this 50A/30+ gallon one we do a lot more: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2400/0975/products/CPA501BBL_5_7809bbcc-11c7-4f76-ab98-8959c332031c_2048x.jpg?v=1519578911

Again, there's no functional difference between going DIN or non-DIN. We do it because when you know what you're doing and have the right tools, it can be faster to build. If going non-DIN I recommend tapping the backplate so that parts can be easily replaced if required. That takes a 2 mins with a screwdriver. If it's a DIN part all that means is that you likely have 2 less screws to undo as the part snaps in instead of screws in. You still need to use a screwdriver to disconnect/reconnect the wires.

I caution against going DIN if you're not sure how to do this. If you need lots of handholding on how to use DIN parts I don't recommend using them as it's more confusing for most people. I'm afraid I also don't have time to walk someone through exactly what to use. If I did, I would spend that time creating step by step instructions. Wink Those may still come, but it's not a priority as people are not asking about it (you are one of the first).

Cheers!

Kal

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peram



Joined: 23 Jan 2019
Posts: 4
Location: Oslo, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again and thanks for you answer.... I'm pondering a bit on this to decide on what to to... I might have a go at making a description as I am kind of "in love" in the clean look of a DIN-based setup...

I might be back Smile

regs,
peram
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kal
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can make a non-DIN look clean too. Example from our pre-built 30A panel:



If you want to get really crazy, you can hide all wiring as this user did: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26529
(Similar to what PC game machine builders do).

A pic of the final product:







While it's nice and clean, I would actually caution against something like this as any wiring changes would be more work.

Kal

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peram



Joined: 23 Jan 2019
Posts: 4
Location: Oslo, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
You can make a non-DIN look clean too. Example from our pre-built 30A panel:



Kal


Can argue with that, it is clean looking Smile but what is that White thing in the middle of the picture, to the right of the terminalstrips ?

Regs,

Peram
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is the safe start interlock relay. Complete details: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-safe-start-interlock

Kal

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