PID Alarm Troubles

[sasky7777]

Register to remove this ad. It's free!

Cross post from HBT, but thought I may get more specific info here.
I have a Kal clone built from a kit, and I seem to have everything running properly except for the PID alarm. They are the Auber SYL-2352. The top number in red all read around 62*F, as I haven’t calibrated them to my Thermopen. The bottom number in green I can change and set. The elements fire and hold the temp to my set point.
What I can’t get working is the alarm. I’ve checked my wiring three times and it’s been checked by a journeyman electrician. The alarm goes off for the timer so I know it works.
I set the first ALARM 1 at 135*F, and set ALARM 2 at 70*F. With the water at roughly 60*F I should get an alarm, and with the set point at 140*F I should get an alarm when I hit the set point. The issue I see is that the PID doesn’t show a light coming on for ALM1 or ALM2. All of this leads me to believe that the PID isn’t set right.
I have gotten the alarm to go off on the PIDs like 10 % of the time which is frustrating since it will work and then stop and I haven’t changed anything other than cycling the power on and off.

[kal]

Not exactly. To be clear:

ALM1 will turn on when the temperature (the measured red PV value) passes through the ALM1 value on its way up.
ALM2 will turn on when the temperature (the measured red PV value) passes through the ALM2 value on way down up.

Key words are "passes through". Make sure that the "Hy-1" and "Hy-2" values are set to the default 9999 too.

More info: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup
Check out the PID manual too for more info.

Calibration of the temp probes will ensure what you're reading is accurate, but doesn't change the logic.

If anyone's curious, here's how I use ALM1 and ALM2:

ALM1 is useful for knowing when:

- The hot liquor has reached strike temperature (alarm sent from the Hot Liquor Tank PID).
- The grain has reached a mash, step, or mashout temperature (alarm sent from the Mash/Lauter Tun PID).
- The hot liquor has reached sparge temperature (alarm sent from the Hot Liquor Tank PID).
- The wort is about to boil (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID).

ALM2 is useful for knowing when:

- The wort has reached hop stand temperature (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID).
- The wort has reached yeast pitching temperature (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID). (I don't actually do this myself but would be useful for brewers who use immersion chillers).

Good luck!

Kal

[kal]

Not exactly. To be clear:

ALM1 will turn on when the temperature (the measured red PV value) passes through the ALM1 value on its way up.
ALM2 will turn on when the temperature (the measured red PV value) passes through the ALM2 value on way down up.

Key words are "passes through". Make sure that the "Hy-1" and "Hy-2" values are set to the default 9999 too.

More info: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup
Check out the PID manual too for more info.

Calibration of the temp probes will ensure what you're reading is accurate, but doesn't change the logic.

If anyone's curious, here's how I use ALM1 and ALM2:

ALM1 is useful for knowing when:

- The hot liquor has reached strike temperature (alarm sent from the Hot Liquor Tank PID).
- The grain has reached a mash, step, or mashout temperature (alarm sent from the Mash/Lauter Tun PID).
- The hot liquor has reached sparge temperature (alarm sent from the Hot Liquor Tank PID).
- The wort is about to boil (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID).

ALM2 is useful for knowing when:

- The wort has reached hop stand temperature (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID).
- The wort has reached yeast pitching temperature (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID). (I don't actually do this myself but would be useful for brewers who use immersion chillers).

Good luck!

Kal

[sasky7777]

Thanks for the reply.

[kal]

Good luck!

Kal

[kal]

Good luck!

Kal

[KB]