My simple 240v 5500w Panel Build

Genuine · Joined: 31 May 2018 Posts: 8 Location: Putnam/Dayville, CT

Been lurking the electric forums for years and built a K-Rims brewing rig with a buddy of mine a couple years ago. I was so pleased with how quickly we could brew a 5 gallon batch (right around 4 hours) and with great efficiency. I liked the smaller foot print, uses only one pump and the best part- no more propane! Here it is:

The first controller we built uses 2 PID's, one to monitor temp, one to control, then a switch for the element and a switch for the pump. Mine Panel build is going to be a simple one PID, with one switch for a pump and one switch for the element. I have no need for the alarms but left room to expand if I wanted to get a bit more fancy.

What I was using prior to this, is a simple STC-1000 Controller Mini E Herms system using a 1000w hotplate to keep mash temps consistent (you can see the hotrod heatstick heating up strike water with a 2000w element, 120v and 20a outlet)

And then using my trusty Bayou Classic Banjo Burner for the boil:

Long Story Short - I purchased a house a year and a half ago with my wife and she agreed I could have my own area to brew in the basement - and the excitement ensued........

So, After spending countless hours learning and researching and planning - I finally took the plunge and got started.

I ordered a bunch of supplies and started to figure out placement:

I then cut all the holes needed, cleaned it up and painted it...and began installing components this morning:

Tonight I'll install the rest of the components and will start wiring.

Things Left to Order/Do:
-Begin Wiring
-Test
-Order Element, and 10/3 Cable for HotRod Heatstick. I currently have a 2000w 120v element in there with 12/3 cable (using to heat up strike water on my 20a 120v outlet I have in the basement)...which I'm on the fence about using for 5500w element. Pros/cons would be appreciated (plus it would save me some extra work).
-Power Wire and figure out if I'm going to put in a GFCI Breaker or go the Spa Panel Route.

I've ordered a couple 1/2" Detachable RTD's from Amazon, and have received a 4 pin detached cable. I returned the first one for being a 4 pin and wanting the 3 pin since that's what it looks like everyone is using and got another 4 pin in the mail yesterday. Main reason for going with the 3 Pin is because I want to get a 2nd RTD to install through the T in my boil gettle (will need RTD with 6" long probe) and I noticed that Auber Ins has that with 3 pin RTD. Anyone else using 4 pin?

**kal** · Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 12:44 am Post subject:

Thanks for sharing and welcome to the forum! Cheers!

Kal

Genuine · Joined: 31 May 2018 Posts: 8 Location: Putnam/Dayville, CT

Well, Proud to say that everything worked like a charm! I just have to get a couple different odds and ends to complete it the re circulation (fittings mainly) and then I can give her a real test run and autotune the PID.

I'm deciding if I should keep the 4 Pin Detachable RTD Sensor or just return for a 3 Pin. Ultimately, I wanted to get a 6" RTD from Auber and put that in through the T on my kettle, where my analog temp dial is now instead of drilling another hole. Auber's RTD's are 3 Pin and would make it easier.

Genuine · Joined: 31 May 2018 Posts: 8 Location: Putnam/Dayville, CT

Here's a quick Mock-Up before I get the Brew Stand built. Finished soldering the temp sensor connections. I'm also waiting on a couple T, Elbow, camlock and new hoses before the whole thing is operational and can do a water test, auto-tune PID and test the counterflow wort chiller.

Edit - I originally wasn't going to install a L14-30RFI for the power cable but, after trying to move it around with the cable attached, it's annoying as all hell. Plus I just picked up a dryer plug to L14-30 connector extension to get power to where I want to brew. I'll be picking that up this weekend and figuring out a place to install the receptacle.