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5KW Induction hob and 20 Gallon SSB stuck @ 98c/208F

 
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suitbrewing



Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Nicosia, Cyprus


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:50 pm    Post subject: 5KW Induction hob and 20 Gallon SSB stuck @ 98c/208F Reply with quote


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Greetings to all. I have been a silent reader to date, but I have a question that I feel will be interesting to this community.

I recently bit the bullet on a 20 gallon SSB kettle and a 5kw induction hob. I spent a large sum on this setup and I am hoping that it will take my brewing forward both in terms of practicality, volume and quality.

I did a test with water before my first batch with the new setup.
I loaded the pot with 65L/17gallon of 25c/77F water and tried to boil it.

The process was reasonably efficient. The 70c (158F) to boil, boil up (which represent the realistic brewing scenario) happened in 40min which is fair for such a large load. If I start to heat while sparging I should be able to heat to boil in no more than 30 min.

The only issue is that when I reached boil and removed the lid, what was a rapid boil turned into a "lazy" boil. I took several temp readings and all them where in the 98c region (208F).

I appreciate that a vigorous boil has a number of benefits, such as clarity, getting rid of DMS etc. Am I missing out on those by being stuck @ 98c/208F during the entire boil process???

Do I have any options??

I should be transparent, that I also posted this question on Homebrewtalk as well. If this is not allowed by the rules of this forum moderators pls delete.

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10195
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum!

One thing to keep in mind is that large volumes of boiling water usually don't look to be boiling overly vigorously. It's not until you do the same with wort that you get lots of apparent movement/bubbles/etc. This is a fairly common question people ask when first testing out their systems with water. 5000W (assuming you're actually getting 5Kw) should be enough to boil 17 gallons. You're starting to get close to the point where we recommend 2 x 5500W elements usually to reduce heat times, but it should still work and produce an adequate boil.

As for being stuck at 208F, are you sure? Has the thermometer been calibrated? What altitude are you at? (The higher you are, the lower the boil temp)

Note to others from North America who many not be aware: A "hob" is a cooktop or hotplate. Wink

Cheers!

Kal

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suitbrewing



Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Nicosia, Cyprus


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal thanks so much for your feedback !

Your feedback is giving me hope Wink !

I guess I will need to brew to find out my boil off rates?!

I am upgrading my whole setup so I am still waiting for my mash tun/ HLT and fittings, so it will be a few weeks before I am all set!
I am thinking of doing a 6 gallon batch on my 36L pot in the meantime just to test the Induction cooker. I bet it will make the process really easy.

I can report my progress here!

Since we are at it, does anyone have any experience of using a stainless steel cooler as a recirculating mash tun with a rims setup?? the mash tun looks like this

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F70-Liter-Edelstahl-Thermobehalter-Speisen-Warmhaltebehalter-50x50-cm-mit-Hahn%2F382395602031%3F_trkparms%3Daid%253D777003%2526algo%253DDISCL.MBE%2526ao%253D2%2526asc%253D49920%2526meid%253D9ca6b1e38ad44cdd8ad87c63fb3d55b0%2526pid%253D100012%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D10%2526sd%253D352285204649%2526itm%253D382395602031%26_trksid%3Dp2047675.c100012.m1985&campid=5336652980&toolid=20008

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10195
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

suitbrewing wrote:
I guess I will need to brew to find out my boil off rates?!

Correct.

Quote:
Since we are at it, does anyone have any experience of using a stainless steel cooler as a recirculating mash tun with a rims setup?? the mash tun looks like this

I think the biggest challenge will be how to attach fittings (ball valves/etc) to it as there are two layers of stainless with insulation in between.

If you're using an system that is able to add heat (like HERMS or RIMS) there's no need for the mash tun to be insulated.

Kal

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suitbrewing



Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Nicosia, Cyprus


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Kal

The plan is to use niples the way I did with my plastic cooler. I do appreciate that a pot is more sturdy for fixing weldless fittings but I think I can pull it off!

I have the SS Cooler already so a pot now would be additional cost. I appreciate that I don't need the insulation but I am guessing is not going to cause any harm.

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