Ezboil

H@wkeye! · Joined: 28 Nov 2017 Posts: 9

Hi all

First post, middle time lurker.

I'm in the process of wiring up my control box, largely to the design of the electric brewery. Love the site, so much info. Even managed to grab the wiring kit as these wires aren't available where i am.

When designing my build i decided on the Ezboil DSPR310D with the intention of using it for the mash (HLT) and the boil kettle. Being very new to all of ths, i didn't realise that the DSPR310D is more designed for duel use when doing brew in a bag. I have a V3 system and am hoping someone can help me wire it up so that i can switch it from HLT element to BK element after the mash. I wonder if anyone has done this already.

Thanks in advance

Hawk

Ozarks Mountain Brew · Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 12:33 pm Post subject:

all you have to do is put a switch on the ssr wire so it would divert the signal to the boil ssr, DC runs both ways so you may need a diode in the path after each lead coming out of the switch

and also the temp probe, thats even trickier for both on the same switch, you might need 2 switches

I don't think its worth it my self, I have 2 and just have one set to boil

**kal** · Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 2:00 pm Post subject:

To add to the above:

One of the bigger issues with using a single PID (of any type) with two temp probes / heating elements is that you may end up confusing the PID and it may not behave optimally, meaning that you may overshoot or undershoot the temperature. Normally we auto-tune our PIDs so that it learns the behaviour of the setup (how much heat to supply to hit a target temp) so that that subsequent brews are always bang on. Auto tuning sets the P/I/D values in the PID. If you have one PID controlling two different setups through switches to choose which one it's working on, it'll never know/understand which system is in use. There's only one set of P/I/D values. You could auto-tune to both setups and write down the P/I/D numbers and then manually change them every time you switch between boil and HLT, but that would be annoying.

Now this is not an issue if you're only ever going to run the PID in manual mode for the boil. Tune it for the HLT so that you can reach/hold the water temperature correctly. But depending on how you brew, auto mode in the boil is useful too - I use it for hop stands all the time and to also avoid boil overs (when coming to a boil I initially set the boil PID to 208F (just below boiling) and turn on the alarm - the PID reaches that temp and doesn't go any higher, the alarm sounds, and then I switch over to manual and continue on my way up to boiling while watching carefully/stirring).

Different temp probes have different offsets too (they're all slightly different) so you won't be able to have both probes be 100% accurate other than by some fluke that both probes you purchased read identically. Again, not a big deal if you're only using the boil kettle in manual mode. In that case I'd set the temp probe offset for the HLT.

Welcome to the forum! Glad to hear you're liking the site!

Kal

Ozarks Mountain Brew · Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 3:13 pm Post subject:

agreed on the probe wires they can be off a couple of degrees between two, I didn't even think of that

H@wkeye! · Joined: 28 Nov 2017 Posts: 9

Hrm much to think about. Hadn't even thought about using the Ezboil for auto boiling the BK. Getting another PID is not a big issue, but cutting the enclosure again is. Would have to take everything out.

Am toying with getting another Ezboil for the BK and possibly removing the timer i have installed at present. I'll install the timer at another point in a new hole below the PIDs.

All PIDs have their own timers. Just means i'd lose the constant display.

barney the bear · Joined: 15 Oct 2014 Posts: 46 Location: Linköping, Sweden

EZBoil does not use PID or On/off algoritms but its own. There is no autotuning or complicated PID adjustments. PWM is not used but "Burst Fire Mode" instead.

In my opinion it is more advanced but also easier to use than a PID. It is especially made for brewing - mashing and boiling - a PID is more universal. You can program step mashes and control boiling in a better and easier way than with manual mode on a PID.

barney the bear · Joined: 15 Oct 2014 Posts: 46 Location: Linköping, Sweden

I was temped of EZ Boil and automation. But now I think I should have followed Kals line.

When I had issues with my PID SWA-2451 (PID with integrated timer) I contacted Auber. Auber said it was nothing wrong with the PID and that this PID:s algoritms was not suitable for brewing (!). It was more suitable for owens etc. They recommended their " EZ Boil for Step Mashing and Boiling Process Automation , DSPR310D" instead. I bought one.

Now I know it is not a good idea to put advanced functions in a little PID-shell and to handle these with two small pushbuttons, a turning knob that also can be pushed and a very small display with a lot of some mysterious codes. Maybe I am a dummy but such things should be handled with a more intuitive and graphic interrface.

Very frustrated and disappionted I gave up after i few hours trying to understand the manual and what turned up on the display after all turning and pushing. I think this is a dead end street for Auber in my opinion.

**kal** · Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:29 pm Post subject:

Yep. There's something to be said about keeping things separate and standard/simple, not trying to combine many things into one. Especially when they'll be used on (what may be for some) a hectic brew day.

YMMV

Kal

Ozarks Mountain Brew · Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 3:25 am Post subject:

I have them on both mash and boil, the thing I like about the EZ Boil is there is no over shooting at all for the mash and I can set an auto step timer, its very well thought out