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chujber
Joined: 30 Aug 2017 Posts: 1
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Link Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 3:50 pm Post subject: Boil Kettle Inlet Quick Connect |
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Hello all,
Let me start by saying what a find this website is and overall feeling and information! So much mad respect to the Electric Brewery. I have finally moved into Electric and All Grain and what a difference in 'what's needed' and what all needs to be understood. Step by step - I luv it and thank you for the immense help and wealth of information - its perfect for where I'm at and what I want to accomplish! I lived in the U.S and have returned back to Canada and the beer pricing and selection is terrible (getting better), but still terrible here compared. Therefore I easily moving into brewing a few years ago and have found a calling - thank you thank you! I've even now have a growler and hops inked on my arm and love every and all aspects of brewing!
So, I have a couple questions;
1) I just started the build - received first Blichmann 20 Gallon and outfitting my beer room with 220, control panel, getting parts and installing the electric element, etc. I been reading up and watching brew day videos and cannot understand 'so far' why there is no quick connect on the top side of the boil pot, with maybe an inside 90 fitting or dip tube to redirect the fluid down inside the pot - this would be for filling rather than hanging the hose over the top. What is the reason or purpose this fitting is not present??
2) I'm doing this in phases, first electrical installs, SS table, 1 pot & element, hood and fan, figuring out the controls (time and budget). I'm also using a PLC and touch screen setup rather than the control modules as I'm an instrumentation tech, controls programmer and its right up my alley to use software and PLC controllers (automation and trending ability).
So long story short - is there any reason I cannot use the electric modified boil pot for extract kits to get the PID working correctly and have a bigger quantity (double 5 gallon batch), OR is the electric element not a good idea for the extract and having to stir in the LME or DME?? I'd think it'll be fine as the wort from the all grain and the extract wort should be similar, but thought I'd ask. Just not sure if I should be mixing this extract in a different way using an electric element rather than flame boiling. Once I have my outstanding extract kits completed this fall, of course I will continue building to the full all grain setup(which is super exciting and I look forward to the challenge - and better beer), but I'm just curious if this type of electric boiling will be an issue as I have not used electric before and not sure what they will do to this type of boiling wort, scorch or ruin it in some way and bad for the electric element, etc.
Thanks in advance - I'm sure I'll need all yall's help as I push to completing the real complete setup and starting next spring with the real deal. Also, thx for the NE IPA recipe and info - wow, just had my first NEIPA at SteamWorks in Vancouver (Flagship NEIPA), wow - does that ever make a great citrusy IPA that I'm now craving and look forward to trying to produce!!
Cheers everyone
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 4:00 pm Post subject: Re: Boil Kettle Inlet Quick Connect |
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Welcome to the forum and glad to hear you're enjoying the website!
chujber wrote: | 1) I just started the build - received first Blichmann 20 Gallon and outfitting my beer room with 220, control panel, getting parts and installing the electric element, etc. I been reading up and watching brew day videos and cannot understand 'so far' why there is no quick connect on the top side of the boil pot, with maybe an inside 90 fitting or dip tube to redirect the fluid down inside the pot - this would be for filling rather than hanging the hose over the top. What is the reason or purpose this fitting is not present?? |
A few reasons:
1. To make sampling easier when sparging. (For measuring gravity, pH, etc).
2. To avoid splashing as you can move the hose (though hotside aeration is a highly debated topic and if you wanted to you could also fill from the input valve to avoid splashing, but then you can't sample easily)
3. To make cleaning easier. The less attachments/parts, the better. The boil kettle gets messy.
4. No benefit to having a 90 degree fitting or dip tube. You already have the long hose.
But that's just me - feel free to add one if you like!
Quote: | So long story short - is there any reason I cannot use the electric modified boil pot for extract kits to get the PID working correctly and have a bigger quantity (double 5 gallon batch), OR is the electric element not a good idea for the extract and having to stir in the LME or DME?? |
You can certainly use LME or DME. Some commercial brewers like these guys have done thousands of batches this way:
Just don't plop it all in at once as it may stick/burn.
Cheers!
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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VaWineSnob
Joined: 14 Jun 2011 Posts: 89
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Link Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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I use LME with the electric brewery frequently - when I don't have time to mash and want to keep the pipeline filled. I pour the LME in slowly while constantly stirring. I also pour near the edge of the edge of the kettle away from the element so there is no way for the LME to fall directly on the element.
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