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Electric Hop Candy Jr. (New England Pale Ale)
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Glad to hear you've enjoyed it!

Kal

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Nola_Brew




Joined: 28 Nov 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Louisiana


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be brewing this in a couple weeks using Hornindal Kveik from Omega. Looking forward to giving this one a try.
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GlennMcD




Joined: 07 Oct 2013
Posts: 51
Location: Louisiana


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m planning on brewing this also again this weekend, but using all cascade. Need to use up some aging hops. Nice to see another from Louisiana.
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Nola_Brew




Joined: 28 Nov 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Louisiana


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GlennMcD wrote:
I’m planning on brewing this also again this weekend, but using all cascade. Need to use up some aging hops. Nice to see another from Louisiana.


Yeah, don't see many Louisiana brewers on any of the forum's I visit.
I cant say I've seen any NEIPA recipes using Cascade. Not sure why as it's a good hop. I may add in cascade in place of some citra. I have some from the 2017 year I need to use up.

What part of Louisiana are you located?
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GlennMcD




Joined: 07 Oct 2013
Posts: 51
Location: Louisiana


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lake Charles, I’ve brew it twice as is, and tweaked a little once to more of a APA, came out great. Its not going to be your Hazy Neipa like Parish Ghost for a example. But don’t let that stop you, I believe it’s just a perfect recipe. Definitely one to keep handy.
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Nola_Brew




Joined: 28 Nov 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Louisiana


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. I usually brew a different NEIPA recipe but wanted to try something different.
This one is up next so probably a couple weeks.
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rivetcatcher




Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Location: Thailand

Drinking: Way Out Wheat - Mindcircus

Working on: Zombie Dust


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I’ve brewed this for the 2nd time. The recipe is exactly the same as the first apart from the yeast. In my first batch I used Saf04, in this batch I used Wyeast 1318 which was the first time I have used one of my frozen yeasts from my recent yeast freezing experiment. I’m pleased to say the fermentation went off like a rocket so I have a hell of a lot of Wyeast yeast in stock and it should last years.

Anyway, regarding the two batches of this beer. I thought both yeasts work extremely well. So good in fact that I can’t really say which one I prefer as I didn’t have enough left to do a side by side comparison. I think the Saf04 had a much more pronounced grapefruit taste and seemed to be a little hazier. With the Wyeast the taste seemed a little bit softer and more rounded with slightly less haze. I wouldn’t go as far to say that it was better. The aroma from both beers seemed to be the same.

One day I might be able to restrain myself enough to have a side by side comparison but until that day my memory will have to do.

I would recommend both yeasts when making this beer and for those that can’t get their hands on Wyeast 1318 then Saf04 is the way to go.

Rivet

Edit: forgot to add that the Saf04 got much better after 4 weeks conditioning. It was good after a couple of weeks but great after 4. Im offshore for 4 weeks now so the 1318 is also getting the chance of an extra 4 weeks in the keg. Let’s see how it changes.
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JHMIII




Joined: 08 Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Location: Grand Rapids MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal

I’m using EZ water to just my water profile for Hop Candy Jr. After my additions my Calcium is to high. Should I lower the Gypsum and Calcium Chloride to Get it below 150. This is what I have now Ca 180 Mg 11 Na 15 CI 200 SO4 100

Joe
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Calcium at 180 is fine. Go with that.

Kal

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alphakry




Joined: 27 Oct 2018
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in researching Carapils/Carafoam - i came across this article. It says a bit different then what I understood as them being the same thing.

https://hellbach.us/blog/food-drink/beer/carapils-the-most-misunderstood-malt/

The take away I'm wondering about is the following paragraphs:
Quote:

Weyermann’s Carapils/Carafoam, on the other hand, is a bit different. First, it’s a touch darker, in the 1.5–3.0° Lovibond range. And while Briess admits that its Carapils has no enzymatic potential, Weyermann’s product actually has a fair amount of diastatic power, to the tune of as much as 100 to 150 on the Windisch–Kolbach index, which is in the neighborhood of 35–45° Lintner. That’s right at the practical limit at which a malt can fully convert itself, which means that the Weyermann product can be used in relatively large proportions, more like a base malt than a caramel malt. Indeed, Weyermann notes that its Carapils /Carafoam can represent as much as 40 percent of a grist by weight, a percentage that would be far too high for a normal caramel malt. Like the Briess product, Weyermann Carapils/Carafoam contributes long-chain sugars that enhance head and improve body, but it can make up a much larger proportion of the malt bill.

So, here’s the bottom line. Briess Carapils is a caramel malt that can be steeped or mashed, while Weyermann’s Carapils/Carafoam is more of an undermodified Pilsner that should probably be mashed to avoid haze issues. In practice, if you stick to percentages under 5 percent, you can get away with steeping the Weyermann product just as you would Briess’s.


So i'm just wondering if there'd be any noticeable differences in the process or expected taste considering the above.
Adding to my curiosity (and indecision) is that that I've found Weyermann branded Carafoam AND Carapils in my LHBS! I know the answer is go with either, they're all the same - but I'm interested in thoughts from anyone here that's brewed this using either/both of these.

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2019 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure why this blog says that. I've always read and understood that they were fairly identical. I use Weyermann Carafoam myself.

To add to the confusion I see others saying things like:

"Some people will claim that carapils is a crystal malt whereas carafoam is not, but this is incorrect. Both are dextrine malts. They are not sweet. They are not starchy. They are not toasty. They are not flavorful. They add body, contribute to a very minimal difference in OG, and help with head retention."
Source: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/carapils-vs-carafoam.389526/

There there are some who have used Briess Carapils at a 50% rate and fermented a beer from 1.063 down to 1.014 which others will say isn't possible!: http://scottjanish.com/dextrins-and-mouthfeel/

At the end of the day I think the "they behave somewhat the same and can be used interchangeably" is true and what a brewer should expect as it's what people have experienced from using them for years. But for everyone person who uses and tries something and reports back, there's always some who will point out differences in the numbers and comment, which causes confusion. There may indeed be differences, but they are likely lost with everything else going on in the beer. There may also be cases where differences are noticed. Not sure.

To add to the confusion:

http://brulosophy.com/2016/11/28/dextrine-malt-pt-1-the-impact-of-carapils-on-various-beer-characteristics-exbeeriment-results/
http://brulosophy.com/2017/12/18/dextrine-malt-pt-2-the-impact-of-carafoam-on-various-beer-characteristics-exbeeriment-results/


My suggestion: Try both and let us know! Wink

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Tue Feb 12, 2019 1:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2019 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alphakry wrote:
Adding to my curiosity (and indecision) is that that I've found Weyermann branded Carafoam AND Carapils in my LHBS!

That's because they are produced, owned, distributed and/or trademarked by different maltsters (Briess and Weyermann). Weyermann uses both names. When they sell in the US where Briess has the trademark CaraPils they use the name Carafoam, otherwise they use Carapils. That's why Weyermann has both names on their website and that's why I use both names here too.

Surprised to see Weyermann CaraPils in a US based store however. That's probably confusion on your LHBS's part. Don't tell Briess. Wink

Kal

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rivetcatcher




Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Location: Thailand

Drinking: Way Out Wheat - Mindcircus

Working on: Zombie Dust


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal,

I’m looking at buying a couple of the hop stoppers for the kegs. What hop / weight would you recommend adding to the keg and for hop candy jr?

Cheers

Rivet
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rivetcatcher wrote:
I’m looking at buying a couple of the hop stoppers for the kegs. What hop / weight would you recommend adding to the keg and for hop candy jr?

You could move the brite tank hops to the keg if you want, or do a second round of hopping. Completely up to you. I like the recipe as is, so I can't really answer your question. Wink

Note that the Hop Stopper 2.0 keg edition isn't only for dry hopping in kegs, but to stop bits of hops that were in the brite tank (or fermenter) that made their way into the keg from getting into the dip tube/glass as some will inevitably make their way into the keg unless you use some sort of filtering device when racking/transferring. The Hop Stopper 2.0 keg edition avoids you from having to be careful about that.

Kal

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rivetcatcher




Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Location: Thailand

Drinking: Way Out Wheat - Mindcircus

Working on: Zombie Dust


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I really like the beer as is as well..... just ordered the hop stoppers so just wanna throw stuff in the keg lol.

I have Dr Smurtos Golden Ale kegged and tapped at the moment... wonder if I cud pull the dip tube out and add some in there.... might be too much of a risk of infection tho.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rivetcatcher wrote:
I have Dr Smurtos Golden Ale kegged and tapped at the moment... wonder if I cud pull the dip tube out and add some in there.... might be too much of a risk of infection tho.

Not really. No more than when you initially kegged it. I suppose repeatedly opening a keg multiple times adds some risk every time you do it, but it's pretty hard to infect a beer that already has alcohol in it and is kept at near freezing temperatures.

Kal

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alphakry




Joined: 27 Oct 2018
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished up making my first batch of this! I'm quite excited, as it's my first NEIPA!
I was intimidated at first by all the different ingredients but it was a pretty standard brew day! I did run into 2 things I'm wondering about...

I will certainly invest in a hop stopper before my next batch - as despite whirlpooling, I am certain I have a bunch of hops that made it into the bottom of the conical and likely into my CFC as well. Would a fair amount of sediment hops have much of a negative affect on the beer or should I of dumped that sediment prior to pitching the yeast?

Speaking of, sadly I didn't realize in time that my temp probe was not properly inserted into my conical and it was giving a high reading, so I managed to chill my wort to 50F (thinking it was 68F) and had already pitched the yeast prior to realizing this mistake. I have let the wort come back up to temp on it's own but worry that the Wyeast 1318 may of all went dormant and fell out of suspension. Should I blast a bit more O2 into the bottom of the conical to help the yeast off the bottom? Any concerns with this?

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alphakry wrote:
I just finished up making my first batch of this! I'm quite excited, as it's my first NEIPA!

Well, technically it's a NEPA, but I'll give you that one. Wink

Quote:
I will certainly invest in a hop stopper before my next batch - as despite whirlpooling, I am certain I have a bunch of hops that made it into the bottom of the conical and likely into my CFC as well. Would a fair amount of sediment hops have much of a negative affect on the beer or should I of dumped that sediment prior to pitching the yeast?

Not sure how much made it in, but I probably wouldn't worry about it. Too late now anyway. You're going to be adding a whack-load more hops after a day too. Wink

Quote:
Speaking of, sadly I didn't realize in time that my temp probe was not properly inserted into my conical and it was giving a high reading, so I managed to chill my wort to 50F (thinking it was 68F) and had already pitched the yeast prior to realizing this mistake. I have let the wort come back up to temp on it's own but worry that the Wyeast 1318 may of all went dormant and fell out of suspension.

It will be fine. Sort of like keeping the yeast in a warm-ish fridge for an extra few hours (or however long it took to come up to the right temp).

Quote:
Should I blast a bit more O2 into the bottom of the conical to help the yeast off the bottom? Any concerns with this?

You shouldn't have to. The yeast will find the sugar.

Kal

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alphakry




Joined: 27 Oct 2018
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome, thank you Kal!! And yea sorry, NEPA till I NEIPA!

for that wack-load of hops coming up - any tips on how to guestimate when high krausen is if i'm using fermentor that's sealed up and I'm not able to see inside? can i just assume that's about 24 hours after the blow off starts bubbling?

thank you again for everything!

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alphakry wrote:
for that wack-load of hops coming up - any tips on how to guestimate when high krausen is if i'm using fermentor that's sealed up and I'm not able to see inside? can i just assume that's about 24 hours after the blow off starts bubbling?

Yep. It's not overly critical. I usually do it about 24 hours after pitching.

Kal

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