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Electric Hop Candy Jr. (New England style Pale Ale)
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 8:42 pm    Post subject: Electric Hop Candy Jr. (New England style Pale Ale) Reply with quote


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Electric Hop Candy Jr has a soft and pillowy mouthfeel full of juicy fruit-forward hop flavours and aromas. It's the sessionable version of our New England style IPA. Image (c) TheElectricBrewery.com

Testimonials:

"This hands down is the best pale ale I have made yet! I can't get over the amount of juicy hop flavor and aroma. Love the hops with restrained bitterness! Everyone who has tried it can't get over just how good this is. This is a great style and I would definitely brew this over and over in my rotation. Thanks for sharing this wonderful recipe for an outstanding NEPA!" - jcav (John)

"This is an amazing recipe! Brewed a couple weeks ago and it tastes great." - AwakenedBrewer

"Another winning recipe from your website ... it turned out great, solid pungent aromatics and a delicious lower ABV NEIPA style beer. The low bitterness restricts the bite and you get a nice soft mouthfeel with loaded hops flavours as we now describe as Juicy." - Dan Pratt

----------

This is a lower alcohol 'sessionable' Pale Ale version of our Electric Hop Candy New England style IPA. At 5.0% ABV (instead of 6.5%), it's perfect for those days when you're looking for all the flavour but don't necessarily want to feel the effects after having a few pints.

New England IPA is a new style of beer that uses many new techniques and ingredients in special combinations to produce a surprisingly juicy beer, brimming with tropical fruit hop flavours and aromas, complimented by a smooth mouthfeel and a hazy appearance. The style showcases the softer side of hops by embracing their juiciest characteristics while downplaying bitterness. It is an incredibly drinkable beer, and over the last couple of years it's been taking the craft brewing world by storm. For more information on the New England style of beers, refer to our regular Electric Hop Candy recipe where I break down the style in detail.

Lower alcohol beers can become harsh when over-hopped, so the hop additions have been reduced in this version: Approximately 3/4 the kettle hops and 1/2 the dry hops.

To give this version a bit of a twist as compared to our regular Electric Hop Candy, I swapped out a portion of the Citra kettle hops for Amarillo which provide a nice hint of apricot. Works great with this style.

To avoid drying out the beer too much, the single infusion mash temperature was raised from 152F to 160F and I use a healthy dose of Carapils® or Carafoam® to replace some of the domestic 2-row and Maris Otter base malts. This malt helps raise the final gravity as this malt produces mostly unfermentable sugars. The higher mash temperature also helps ensure we end up at the target gravity we want (1.014). Too low a final gravity and the beer may taste overly thin, a common problem with lower alcohol version of beers where nothing but the amount of malt is modified. When making lower ABV versions of your favourite beers you want to re-assess the percentages used in the grist and possibly swap out some base malt for unfermentables.

I also tried Yeast Bay Vermont Ale during an experimental version of this beer as I had an old vial I wanted to use (see videos below). As expected, it attenuated a bit too far (1.010), but was still great (not too dry). I recommend sticking with Wyeast 1318 London Ale III, same as with my regular Electric Hop Candy.



Photos/videos:


Making the yeast starter during one of the experimental batches (part 1: boiling water).
More information on starters.
Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com



Making the yeast starter during one of the experimental batches (part 2: pitching yeast).
More information on starters.
Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com



Making the yeast starter during one of the experimental batches (part 3: fermentation done).
More information on starters.
Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com



Prepping to the brew day the night before. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Brew day! Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Filling the HLT. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Heating the strike water. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Mash is done. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Boil about half way done. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Doing the 30 minute hop stand at 180F after the boil. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Wort quickly chilled to below 80F and dumped in fermenters which are then placed in the fermenting fridges to bring it down to pitch temperature (~66F). Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Yeast pitched, wort aerated, back in fermenting fridges. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Adding the first round of dry hops at high krausen. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Hops after active fermentation. Hops are added at high krausen to aid in biotransformation (basically a flavour 'unlocking' of hop glycosides that we don't normally taste in aromatic/flavour compound). Photo (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Sunset and pints of Electric Hop Candy Jr. Photo (c) TheElectricBrewery.com

Interested in seeing what we're brewing right now? Follow our Instagram feed for pictures and videos of our brewing activities as they happen.



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Electric Hop Candy Jr. (New England style Pale Ale) (batch #219)

Size: 12.0 gal (post-boil)
Mash Efficiency: 95%
Attenuation: 73%
Calories: 174 kcal per 12.0 fl oz
Original Gravity: 1.052 (style range: 1.045 - 1.060)
Terminal Gravity: 1.014 (style range: 1.010 - 1.015)
Colour: 5.6 SRM (style range: 5.0 - 10.0)
Alcohol: 5.0% ABV (style range: 4.5% - 6.2%)
Bitterness: 24? IBU (style range: 30.0 - 50.0) (Ignore. Calculated IBU numbers are all over the place in an all-late addition beer like this.)

Ingredients:
4.8 lb Domestic 2-Row Malt (24.9%)
4.8 lb Maris Otter Malt (24.9%)
2.9 lb Pale (or White) Wheat Malt (15.0%)
2.9 lb Flaked Oats (15.0%)
2.9 lb Carapils®/Carafoam® (15.0%)
1.0 lb Honey Malt 25L (5.2%)
2 oz Amarillo Hops (8.0%) - added first wort*, boiled 60 min [14.0 IBU]
1 Whirlfloc Tablet (Irish moss) - added during boil, boiled 15 min
4 oz Amarillo Hops (8.0%) - added during boil, boiled 5 min [10.0 IBU]
2 oz Citra Hops (14.1%) - added after boil, steeped at 180F for 30 minutes
2 oz Mosaic Hops (12.2%) - added after boil, steeped at 180F for 30 minutes
4 packs Wyeast 1318 London Ale III liquid yeast (or an appropriate starter to make approximately 438 billion cells**)
2.0 oz Citra Hops (14.1%) - dry hop #1 (added at high krausen, 1 day after pitching yeast)
2.0 oz Mosaic Hops (12.2%) - dry hop #1 (added at high krausen, 1 day after pitching yeast)
2.0 oz Citra Hops (14.1%) - dry hop #2 (added in brite tank, steeped for 3 days)
2.0 oz Mosaic Hops (12.2%) - dry hop #2 (added in brite tank, steeped for 3 days)

*First wort hops are added to the boil kettle at the start of sparging (before the wort is boiled). For IBU calculations, first wort hopping is said to be similar to a 20 minute addition, but I wouldn't worry about trying to figure out the IBU in this recipe. Ignore IBU calculators on beers like this where most of the hops are added late in the boil as the numbers will vary greatly depending on who's calculator you want to believe/use. In my brewing software, depending on which curve I use the beer's IBU will vary from 9 to 32. Useless!

**For hints on how to make a starter see Chapter 6 of How to Brew and Appendix A of Brewing Classic Styles. Also see the stirplate/starter equipment I use.

Notes/Process:
Add 500mg potassium metabisulphite to 20 gallons water to remove chlorine/chloramine (as required).
Water treated with brewing salts to: Ca=100, Mg=10, Na=16, Cl=200, SO4=100
(Higher Chloride and lower Sulphate as compared to what is normally done with most American IPAs and Pale Ales. This helps create the silky smooth and rich mouthfeel, pushing the hop flavours to be rounded and less sharp/dry).
For complete details on how to adjust your water, refer to our step by step Water Adjustments guide.
1.25 qt/lb mash thickness.
Single infusion mash at 160F for 90 mins.
Raise to 168F mashout temperature and hold for 10 mins.
~90 min fly sparge with ~5.6-5.8 pH water. At start of sparge add First Wort Hops to the boil kettle to let them steep as the wort is collected. Collect 13.9 gallons.
Boil for 60 minutes, adding Whirlfloc and hops per schedule at 15 and 5 minutes left.
Once boil is completed, quickly chill the wort to 180F (a copper immersion chiller works well - even the cheapest 25' x 3/8" immersion chiller will only take 2-3 minutes to chill from 212F to 180F).
On the control panel, switch the BOIL PID to AUTO mode and set the temperature to 180F. This will hold the wort at 180F. Do not worry if you undershot the 180F target temperature slightly when chilling with the immersion chiller. The control panel will quickly raise the temperature back to 180F and hold.
Add the steeping hops, put on the kettle lid, and wait 30 minutes. There is no need to stir the wort during this time. The control panel will fire the heating element periodically to maintain the 180F temperature which also gently stirs the wort through convection currents.
After the 30 minute steep turn off the heating element and chill the wort quickly to 66F (I use a CFC) and transfer to fermenter.
Aerate well. Pure oxygen from a tank may be used at a rate of 1 litre per minute for 60 seconds.
Pitch yeast and ferment at 68F (wort temperature). I use stainless fermenting buckets in wine fridges.
Assuming you did not underpitch the yeast, after 24 hours you should be at high krausen (highest point of foaming). Add dry hops #1 directly to the fermenter.
Continue to ferment at 68F (wort temperature) until at approximately 1.020 (~5-6 points from final gravity) and then raise the temperature to 70-72F until finished. In my case I simply turn off the fermenting fridges and allow the wort to temperature to naturally rise to room temperature. Fermentation should be complete in about 7-8 days total.
Carefully rack to CO2 purged brite tanks (I like to use two 5 gallon glass carboys) and add dry hops #2. Do not use finings such as gelatin.
After 3 days in the brite tanks package as you would normally. I carefully rack to CO2 purged kegs and carbonate on the low side (around 2 volumes of CO2) to minimize carbonic bite and let the fruity hop and subtle malt flavours shine through. I chill the kegs to near freezing while carbonating at the same time in a 6-keg conditioning fridge. After ~1-2 weeks the kegs will be carbonated and ready to serve. Like all hop forward beers this New England Pale Ale is best consumed fresh and young.

Try your hand at this softer, rounder, juicier Pale Ale - brew Electric Hop Candy Jr today! Enjoy!

For complete brewing instructions, see our Brew Day: Step by Step guide.

Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!

SEE OUR OTHER RECIPES »

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Mon Sep 17, 2018 2:46 am; edited 4 times in total
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone!

I brewed this again last night (for about the 3rd time) and shot a bunch of videos of the process if anyone's curious:


Filling the HLT. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Heating the strike water. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Mash is done. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Boil about half way done. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Doing the 30 minute hop stand at 180F after the boil. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Wort quickly chilled to below 80F and dumped in fermenters which are then placed in the fermenting fridges to bring it down to pitch temperature (~66F). Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Yeast pitched, wort aerated, back in fermenting fridges. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com


Adding the first round of dry hops at high krausen. Video (c) TheElectricBrewery.com

They've also been added to the original recipe above.

Kal

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andrhamm



Joined: 28 Sep 2013
Posts: 35
Location: Hudson, MA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly the style I'm always on the lookout for. I'm planning on brewing this beer as my first batch on my new Grainfather! Do you share your beer.xml files anywhere? Or save your recipes online somewhere like Brewtoad? Would be really convenient for being able to scale and modify for other profiles.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No XML files or similar - sorry! Just the recipe listed here.

Kal

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jcav



Joined: 21 Sep 2011
Posts: 178
Location: Central Florida


PostLink    Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Love the vids, your brewing area and bar setup is amazing!

John Mug

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John!

Just turned off the fermentation fridges today for this batch to let it ramp up to 70-72F and finish off... another 2-3 days and it'l be done fermenting.

Kal

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Tennessee



Joined: 04 Apr 2015
Posts: 109
Location: Tennessee


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any downside to doing both the active and final dry hopping in my conical ?

Couldn’t one just recirculate thru a CFC to hit the 180 mark.

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tennessee wrote:
Is there any downside to doing both the active and final dry hopping in my conical ?

Nope! One of the benefits of a conical is that you can drop the trub after fermentation is done and then add the second dose.
See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ferment-and-package

Quote:
Couldn’t one just recirculate thru a CFC to hit the 180 mark.

Sure, as long as you're not using a Hop Stopper (not meant for recirc).

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've increased the dry hop amounts slightly in the original recipe as it gives fruitier results without being overpowering:

Went from:

1.5 oz Citra Hops (14.1%) - dry hop #1 (added at high krausen, 1 day after pitching yeast)
1.5 oz Mosaic Hops (12.2%) - dry hop #1 (added at high krausen, 1 day after pitching yeast)
1.5 oz Citra Hops (14.1%) - dry hop #2 (added in brite tank, steeped for 3 days)
1.5 oz Mosaic Hops (12.2%) - dry hop #2 (added in brite tank, steeped for 3 days)

To:

2.0 oz Citra Hops (14.1%) - dry hop #1 (added at high krausen, 1 day after pitching yeast)
2.0 oz Mosaic Hops (12.2%) - dry hop #1 (added at high krausen, 1 day after pitching yeast)
2.0 oz Citra Hops (14.1%) - dry hop #2 (added in brite tank, steeped for 3 days)
2.0 oz Mosaic Hops (12.2%) - dry hop #2 (added in brite tank, steeped for 3 days)

Enjoy!

Kal

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last weekend I brought a bunch of Electric Hop Candy Jr to our 25 year engineering reunion and had lots of great feedback!

Filling the growlers:



More pics: https://www.instagram.com/p/BaIWE9Hhhzq/?taken-by=theelectricbrewery

Kal

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AwakenedBrewer



Joined: 04 Aug 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Norfolk, NE


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is an amazing recipe! Brewed a couple weeks ago and it tastes great. I'm wondering what made you use almost 3 lbs. of Carapils though?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AwakenedBrewer wrote:
This is an amazing recipe! Brewed a couple weeks ago and it tastes great.

Glad you like it!

AwakenedBrewer wrote:
I'm wondering what made you use almost 3 lbs. of Carapils though?

To quote the original recipe:

kal wrote:
To avoid drying out the beer too much, the single infusion mash temperature was raised from 152F to 160F and I use a healthy dose of Carapils® or Carafoam® to replace some of the domestic 2-row and Maris Otter base malts. This helps raise the final gravity as this malt produces mostly unfermentable sugars. The higher mash temperature helps ensure we end up at the target gravity we want (1.014). Too low a final gravity and the beer may taste overly thin, a common problem with lower alcohol version of beers where nothing but the amount of malt is modified. When making lower ABV versions of your favourite beers you want to re-assess the percentages used in the grist and possibly swap out some base malt for unfermentables.


Kal

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AwakenedBrewer



Joined: 04 Aug 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Norfolk, NE


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see. I took that more about just raising the temp to create the unfermentables, not adding the Carapils. Thought that was adjusting the mouth feel and flavor profile more for the lower ABV. Thanks for keeping it clear.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope! There's only so far you can go with higher mash temps... you need to add grain that's not fermentable like Carapils/Carafoam too in this case to get the final gravity high enough.

Kal

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acarlson



Joined: 23 Oct 2017
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may be mentioned elsewhere in the forums, but are the dry hop amounts total for the 12 gallon batch or are they per fermenter? Thanks!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

acarlson wrote:
This may be mentioned elsewhere in the forums, but are the dry hop amounts total for the 12 gallon batch or are they per fermenter? Thanks!

Everything in the ingredients list is for the total batch size (12 gallons post boil). Good luck and welcome to the forum!

Kal

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acarlson



Joined: 23 Oct 2017
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PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I just brewed something similar to your recipe but with double the early dry hops and half the late dry hops (albeit on a much lower tech brew setup). Haven't tasted it yet, but it smells tasty so far!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let us know how it works out!

Kal

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HopSteady



Joined: 09 Jan 2016
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PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This recipe looks great! Few questions:

Do you acidify the mash? I believe with that water profile you would need to lower the pH a bit? Do you recall what you did and where your mash pH came out at?
Do you recall your post-sparge / pre-boil gravity? I would like to know how close I get on my system.

Thanks!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9263
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HopSteady wrote:
This recipe looks great!

Glad you like it!

Quote:
Do you acidify the mash? I believe with that water profile you would need to lower the pH a bit? Do you recall what you did and where your mash pH came out at?

I do add various salts/minerals to the mash, which help acidify the mash and lower the pH. Whether I need to then use extra acid like lactic acid doesn't really matter to other brewers as what I do exactly isn't information you can use as you will not be using the same water as me. What you need to do exactly to hit the right mash pH with your water is going to be different than what I do.

Take a look at my step by step water adjustment article to understand what will need to be done - it uses your water as a starting point: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/water-adjustment

Quote:
Do you recall your post-sparge / pre-boil gravity? I would like to know how close I get on my system.

My pre-boil gravity will not be the same as yours as your boil-off rate will be different than mine. Your final volume may be different too. So you can't use my numbers to help you. It will only confuse you.

The higher the boil-off rate, the lower your pre-boil gravity will be.

Most brewing software lets you enter in your boil-off rate. From that most software will also tell you your expected pre-boil gravity based on your expected final (post-boil) gravity and volume.

I use Beer Tools Pro myself and it does this calculation for me: http://www.beertools.com/ap/theelectricbrewery/store/

Good luck!

Kal

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