|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Ozarks Mountain Brew
Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 737
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri
|
 Link Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:52 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
the only thing I would need besides that is a french drain in the concrete just in front of the brew table so I can just spray and clean everything in place, great job
_________________
"Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world."
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY
|
| Link Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 1:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| kal wrote: | | dtapke wrote: | | long and short of it, 4.25 gallons of boil off seems WAY excessive! |
Tungsten mentioned he went from 8.25 to about 4.5 gallons, so 3.75 gallons boil off. Still high if he was only boiling for an hour. I do 1.9 gallons/hour myself.
Kal |
Sorry it's been a while since I checked in here, but it is not 3.75 gallons of boil off. Also making up a part of that is:
Cooling shrinkage
Loss to chiller/pump (I recirculate and getting the rest out of the chiller is difficult)
Loss to bottom of pot
When you factor all that in plus the fact that I only do 90 minute boils, I pretty much end up at 2 gallons/hour.
| JMD887 wrote: | Tungsten- not sure how its taken me this long to read your thread.... Totally Loving the floors, looks great with all the stainless steel!
Nice work! |
Thanks! The floors are still my favorite part.
| Ozarks Mountain Brew wrote: | | the only thing I would need besides that is a french drain in the concrete just in front of the brew table so I can just spray and clean everything in place, great job |
Thanks! I wish I had considered a drain when we built the house in 2016, but unfortunately I didn't. Plus I didn't know the location just yet. Then again, after brewing in a garage for years I have somewhat perfected how to minimize spills, and cleaning the equipment is easy now that I have a sink in the brew area!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY
|
| Link Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 1:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Quick update: I finished a minor project that had been on my brewery to do list for years. Nothing earth shattering but still something that'll be really helpful and can't come off the way tape or marker does.
 
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dtapke
Joined: 26 Oct 2018
Posts: 12
Location: Portage, Wisconsin
|
| Link Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 3:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Little trick i figured out to help reduce leftovers in the pump+chiller (i use a duda plate chiller) is to push it out with O2. I just hold my O2 line up to the kettle outlet and crank it up on high until it pushes all the leftover wort out.
_________________
Draft: Electric hop candy Jr, Milk Stout
Fermenting: Tripppel
Next brew up: Dopplebock
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Builder
Joined: 03 Sep 2017
Posts: 32
Location: Indiana
|
| Link Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Tungsten wrote: | Quick update: I finished a minor project that had been on my brewery to do list for years. Nothing earth shattering but still something that'll be really helpful and can't come off the way tape or marker does.
|
What did you use to etch the glass?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY
|
| Link Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 2:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
First response in 4+ years. Oops. Baby, COVID, baby, job stuff... now that the little ones are 2 and 3, I am back on the brewing path and hoping to brew in a few weeks for the first time in 3 years.
In addition to some minor part replacements and such, I wanted to note a few other things I'm doing:
1. Replace ammeter/voltmeter with AC-powered versions. I want to reduce the amount of failure points as I've had several components from the DC-powered ones go bad on me. Maybe I won't have different results - but maybe I will. Trying it out!
2. Adding a temperature calibration attachment for my vessels. This is totally unnecessary and mainly for fun. To attach to the male camlock on all 3 vessels, I've built a [female camlock with 1/2 male NPT > stainless 1/2 NPT "T" > compression fitting (for temperature probe) on one side of the T / male camlock on the other side of the "T"]. I don't really want this connected all the time so this is a relatively inexpensive way to be able to calibrate (as close to the probe) as possible without adding anything to the permanent build.
3. My 50a power cord had a pretty good amount of oxidation on the hot and neutral prongs, so yesterday I learned that copper does not conduct electricity through the oxididation layer. A little Star San and a little fine sandpaper fixed the problem quickly.
Will do a picture dump soon, as I have a lot I'd like to show in more detail than I have before in this thread. Cheers!
| Builder wrote: | | Tungsten wrote: | Quick update: I finished a minor project that had been on my brewery to do list for years. Nothing earth shattering but still something that'll be really helpful and can't come off the way tape or marker does.
|
What did you use to etch the glass? |
Armour Etch. Worked really well, just make sure you wear nitrile gloves!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
|
| Link Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 2:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for the update!
| Tungsten wrote: | | 1. Replace ammeter/voltmeter with AC-powered versions. I want to reduce the amount of failure points as I've had several components from the DC-powered ones go bad on me. Maybe I won't have different results - but maybe I will. Trying it out! |
That's odd! I've been using the same meters (with transformers and AC/DC power supplies) for 14 years now. We also don't see regular failures for those who build our kit using the same parts either. If someone connects things up incorrectly (like putting 240V AC into the 5V DC power points) then a meter will fail catastrophically of course, but that's to be expected. A meter that has AC power inputs instead of DC simply has the transformer and AC/DC converter built in instead of separate.
| Quote: | | 2. Adding a temperature calibration attachment for my vessels. This is totally unnecessary and mainly for fun. To attach to the male camlock on all 3 vessels, I've built a [female camlock with 1/2 male NPT > stainless 1/2 NPT "T" > compression fitting (for temperature probe) on one side of the T / male camlock on the other side of the "T"]. I don't really want this connected all the time so this is a relatively inexpensive way to be able to calibrate (as close to the probe) as possible without adding anything to the permanent build. |
Sounds similar to what I use: https://www.instagram.com/p/CmWiKb0r3dg/
Cheers!
Kal
_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY
|
| Link Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 2:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| kal wrote: | Thanks for the update!
| Tungsten wrote: | | 1. Replace ammeter/voltmeter with AC-powered versions. I want to reduce the amount of failure points as I've had several components from the DC-powered ones go bad on me. Maybe I won't have different results - but maybe I will. Trying it out! |
That's odd! I've been using the same meters (with transformers and AC/DC power supplies) for 14 years now. We also don't see regular failures for those who build our kit using the same parts either. If someone connects things up incorrectly (like putting 240V AC into the 5V DC power points) then a meter will fail catastrophically of course, but that's to be expected. A meter that has AC power inputs instead of DC simply has the transformer and AC/DC converter built in instead of separate.
| Quote: | | 2. Adding a temperature calibration attachment for my vessels. This is totally unnecessary and mainly for fun. To attach to the male camlock on all 3 vessels, I've built a [female camlock with 1/2 male NPT > stainless 1/2 NPT "T" > compression fitting (for temperature probe) on one side of the T / male camlock on the other side of the "T"]. I don't really want this connected all the time so this is a relatively inexpensive way to be able to calibrate (as close to the probe) as possible without adding anything to the permanent build. |
Sounds similar to what I use: https://www.instagram.com/p/CmWiKb0r3dg/
Cheers!
Kal |
Yeah, I figure it was just a bout of bad luck on my part (and probably an error somewhere too, especially when I was new to this part of the hobby). But whether it's bad luck or my incompetence, I figured I'd try something else anyway.
Thanks for sharing the instagram pic! That is exactly what I'm putting together, except with camlocks instead of QDs. Nice!!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY
|
| Link Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2023 7:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Finishing up fixing some plumbing issues on my sink that I've just lived with for the last few years and wrapping up my control panel wiring.
One last question.
On my panel, I have two timers, two indicator lights, but only one buzzer. The way I have it wired now is as follows (hot only):
Timer A > Alarm On/Off Switch > Light A (when timer goes off) > Buzzer X
and
Timer B > Alarm On/Off Switch > Light B (when timer goes off) > Buzzer X
All components are 120v, all components have a properly wired neutral.
The issue is that if I'm using just one of the timers (which is most of the time), both lights and the buzzer all activiate. I can move the switch so that it is wired after the light, but then both lights will kick on if I'm using both timers. Here are my choices.
A. Leave it - this isn't a big deal
B. Move the switch - fixes the issue on 99% of my brewdays
C. Add one relay per light - fixes everything but is the trickiest to implement (but possible)
Is there a different way to fix the issue other than "C" above? I can't seem to make it work without two relays.
Sorry... what?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
|
| Link Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2023 12:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Tungsten wrote: |
One last question.
On my panel, I have two timers, two indicator lights, but only one buzzer. The way I have it wired now is as follows (hot only):
Timer A > Alarm On/Off Switch > Light A (when timer goes off) > Buzzer X
and
Timer B > Alarm On/Off Switch > Light B (when timer goes off) > Buzzer X
All components are 120v, all components have a properly wired neutral.
The issue is that if I'm using just one of the timers (which is most of the time), both lights and the buzzer all activiate. I can move the switch so that it is wired after the light, but then both lights will kick on if I'm using both timers. Here are my choices.
A. Leave it - this isn't a big deal
B. Move the switch - fixes the issue on 99% of my brewdays
C. Add one relay per light - fixes everything but is the trickiest to implement (but possible)
Is there a different way to fix the issue other than "C" above? I can't seem to make it work without two relays. |
Look at how our panels are all wired in terms of the red alarm light and buzzer. They're all the same in that there are 3 PIDs and 1 timer that can cause the red alarm and buzzer to light up. They all have ALARM ON/OFF switches. Adding a second timer is simply an extension to this. Do it the same way. You could have 100 timers, or 50 PIDs. As long as they all have separate ALARM ON/OFF switches to override, you're good!
Oops. Wrong link.  Try: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=289748#289748
Kal
_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
|
Forum powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
|
|
Log in
Register
User Control Panel
Private Messages
Club Memberships
Search
Memberlist
Photo Albums
Forum FAQ
