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Electric Hop Candy (New England style IPA)
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GLRRA47



Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 41
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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My thought too. I usually get away with some dry hops in the secondary, but my last batch I racked too many over into the keg - resulting in a very slow (but clear) beer at the tap. (Hops clogging the keg poppet valve)
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stickyfinger



Joined: 04 May 2014
Posts: 172
Location: hudson valley, NY


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jonymac wrote:
Kal - Judging by the pics, I guess you add the dry hops naked in the fermenter - you don't use a hops screen canister or something similar?


no need for a filter. add them in loose and shake the carboy every serveral hours.... brulosophy said they got awesome dank from only a 24-hr dry hop, but i have used only like 5 day dryhops. want to do a direct comparison of 24 hrs vs like 5 days now to compare.

if you want to avoid clogging just chill the beer to near freezing overnight and you can rack directly into a purged keg through the out-poppet with NO problems.

i also have been using gelatin to fine the beer, and it is just as awesome....
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jonymac



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 138



PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, Kal's using SS Brewtech fermenters as a primary and they have a small diameter pickup tube you can see in the pic on page 1. When I have added my hops loose and free, I have had clogging in that pickup tube. He is racking that to the carboys to secondary and is then racking from the top down into kegs as his bright tanks. This way he doesn't get hops in his kegs - or very little. My question mainly deals with the clogging of the pickup tubes from the primary to the secondary. Not talking about filtering here. Kal can verify all this.

My setup is a bit different. I use SS Brewtech conicals, and dump my yeast and harvest it after it's done fermenting. I then consider it in secondary at that point and then add my dry hops in hops screens with fishing line attached to the top. When it is time to keg, I just hookup a hose to the racking port and push the beer under CO2 pressure to the kegs under a blanket of CO2. Once done, I pull out the screens and clean everything up. Saves 1 transfer to secondary and twice the cleaning.

With a NE IPA this process changes slightly as you are dry hopping during primary fermentation.

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stickyfinger wrote:
I've been doing a ton of experimentation with NE IPA. I don't really know if the murkiness is critical, maybe not. I've made what I would consider to be good examples with nothing but 2-row and crystal 15L. I usually do no kettle hops and a HUGE dry hop, 2 oz/gal, but I just tried a WC IPA that had a 20-minute addition of CTZ and then 2 oz/gal of Simcoe-Centennial-Chinook that is super smooth round and amazing. I think there is a lot of room for experimentation here! If you want the murk, maybe leave out the kettle finings and use a super huge dry hop. I think you will be satisfied....

Murky is a side product, not a goal. Murky is what helps give it the intense hop flavours as you have more 'stuff' in solution for the hop oils to cling on it. Eventually that murkyness will subside, even pro brewers of NEIPAs will mention this. Leave any beer long enough and it'll clear. I remember one year I had a Belgian Wit on one of my taps (a hazy wheat beer like Hoegaarden) and it just wasn't one of the more popular beers and over ~6 months it turned crystal clear. Wink

GLRRA47 wrote:
How do you keep from sucking up hops from 2nd into keg?

Most of the hops are either at the bottom or the top. I simply rack directly with a racking cane. Some hops do get into keg but they settle out while the beer carbs up. The first couple of pints may have a bit of hop degree but that's it.

jonymac wrote:
Kal - Judging by the pics, I guess you add the dry hops naked in the fermenter - you don't use a hops screen canister or something similar?

Correct on all accounts. I sometimes use these: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/Stainless-Steel-Dry-Hopper-for-Kegs
But lately I find I don't. I leave my hops to roam free. Wink

jonymac wrote:
He is racking that to the carboys to secondary and is then racking from the top down into kegs as his bright tanks. This way he doesn't get hops in his kegs - or very little.

Correct. I keep the cane near the bottom when racking but not in the sludge on the bottom.

jonymac wrote:
My question mainly deals with the clogging of the pickup tubes from the primary to the secondary. Not talking about filtering here. Kal can verify all this.

Ah! Gotcha. I don't use the valve on the stainless fermenter. I use a racking cane that seems to be fairly large diameter. I used to use filters on it (like cheesecloth) but then that would get clogged. So instead now I use nothing.

Kal

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jonymac



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 138



PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it sounds like you had the same issue I did with the pickup tubes. I use the stainless steeel dry hoppers for kegs and can add up to 4 dry hop charges that way. It also leaves my yeast nice and clean for harvesting - no need to wash it. I have a whole yeast library in my conditioning fridge. May be worth a try Kal to decrease cleaning and secondary transfer issues - I loved skipping that step, a major reason for using conicals.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jonymac wrote:
I use the stainless steeel dry hoppers for kegs and can add up to 4 dry hop charges that way.

I stopped using them as even with the really large ones I have I found the hops were all clumping up together, likely leaving oils behind.

Quote:
It also leaves my yeast nice and clean for harvesting - no need to wash it. I have a whole yeast library in my conditioning fridge.

I've stopped saving yeast. I've been doing it for years with good intentions but I don't find myself very often wanting to brew with the same liquid yeast strain within 2-3 weeks of last time so keeping it is wasted on me. For years every time I need a mason jar to save yeast they'd all be full so I'd simply look in the fridge and grab the oldest one and dump the existing yeast in it as it was always really old (like ~1 year old) and completely useless. So I asked myself "why am I doing this?". Wink I've been using only fresh yeast for some time now.

Kal

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BarleyNut



Joined: 21 Mar 2017
Posts: 2
Location: Bishop GA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 3:57 pm    Post subject: Percentage of Flaked Oats or other adjunct Reply with quote

Hi Kal,

Great looking recipe. I had a question. In your write up, you mentioned:

Quote:
How much to use? I started at 13% and kept increasing until I hit 30% which I found produced the results.


But in your recipe that you've published down below it, you have your Flaked Oats at 15%. Is that correct? Can you clarify please?

Thank you!

Kerry R

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Kerry R
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BarleyNut Brewing

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Percentage of Flaked Oats or other adjunct Reply with quote

BarleyNut wrote:
Quote:
How much to use? I started at 13% and kept increasing until I hit 30% which I found produced the results.


But in your recipe that you've published down below it, you have your Flaked Oats at 15%. Is that correct? Can you clarify please?

I used a total of 30% high-protein adjuncts. 15% wheat, 15% flaked oats (both are high-protein). Here's the whole quote:

Quote:
Use high-protein adjuncts: High-protein adjuncts like wheat and flaked oats help provide a silky/rich mouthfeel without increasing the final gravity and making the beer too heavy or too full bodied. Using such grains in an aggressively hopped beer that is left unfiltered also contributes to haze. How much to use? I started at 13% and kept increasing until I hit 30% which I found produced the results. Flaked barley could also be used here.

Welcome to the forum!

Kal

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BarleyNut



Joined: 21 Mar 2017
Posts: 2
Location: Bishop GA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:52 pm    Post subject: Percentage of Flaked Oats or other adjunct Reply with quote

That makes sense now! I was forgetting that the wheat counted as well and didn't read that right.

Thank you for the very fast reply!

Cheers!

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Kerry R
Athens GA

BarleyNut Brewing

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're welcome! If you end up brewing the recipe please let us know how you like it!

Kal

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dward4421



Joined: 21 Jan 2016
Posts: 35



PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished making this today. This is my fourth beer I've made on this system and it was by far the best. I hit all my numbers this time. The only thing that gave me trouble was during the 30 min whirlpool at 180 F. I chilled the wort to 180 with my immersion chiller and turned the control panel to automatic. When the element would kick on, it would grossly overshoot the temperature to the high 180s. After 10 min of this, I manually turned on and off the element to keep it close to 180. Other than that, everything went well. Look forward to dry hopping tomorrow! Kal, I have not done auto tunning on my system yet. Do you think this would help in the future with the 30 min whirlpooling?
-Dan
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dward4421 wrote:
Just finished making this today. This is my fourth beer I've made on this system and it was by far the best. I hit all my numbers this time. The only thing that gave me trouble was during the 30 min whirlpool at 180 F. I chilled the wort to 180 with my immersion chiller and turned the control panel to automatic. When the element would kick on, it would grossly overshoot the temperature to the high 180s. After 10 min of this, I manually turned on and off the element to keep it close to 180. Other than that, everything went well. Look forward to dry hopping tomorrow! Kal, I have not done auto tunning on my system yet. Do you think this would help in the future with the 30 min whirlpooling?
-Dan

If you were overshooting more than a degree or two then mostl likely you were still in manual mode instead of automatic. This will happen if you press SET instead of the A/M button. SET changes the display mode to toggle displaying either the auto or manual current settings without actually switching to the other mode. To make sure you're actually in auto mode, make sure the A/M light is off (same as the HLT PID, which, if set up correctly, can only run in auto).

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Sun Mar 26, 2017 9:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ultravista



Joined: 15 Mar 2017
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dward4421 - did you go with the 30% wheat/oats as the recipe states?
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dward4421



Joined: 21 Jan 2016
Posts: 35



PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I followed the recipe exactly as Kal wrote
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ultravista



Joined: 15 Mar 2017
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the Heady Topper (Off the Topper) clone from Northern Brewer with a scant 4.5% wheat.

13 lbs Pale Malt, Pearl (Thomas Fawcett) 79.4 %
1 lbs Carapils (Briess) (1.5 SRM) 5.9 %
12 oz Carastan Light (Bairds) (15.0 SRM) 4.4 %
12 oz White Wheat Malt (3.0 SRM 4.4 %
1 lbs Candi Sugar, 5.9 %

I will bump the wheat to 15% and add target 15% oats - about 2 lbs 9 ounces of each.

Also bought 1318 (LA III) for this batch to see how it turns out. Kal seems to like it. I have been brewing the Heady Topper clone with Wyeast's Vermont Ale strain.

It should change the taste quite a bit. I may also do a 30 minute boil as this has a 10 ml hop shot. That should keep the wort bright. The Brülosophy team did an exbeeriment with 30 minute boils and found no perceptible difference in 2-row and pilsner malt batches.

Anyone else doing minimal boils? It make sense with the hop extract as the goodness is already there Smile
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dward4421



Joined: 21 Jan 2016
Posts: 35



PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gravity has been stable since Friday, so I racked it to the secondary added the final hop addition. My whole brewery smells like a fruit bomb went off. I had the same problem as above with my brew bucket racking arm. I will use an auto siphon next time. Usually when it comes time to rack the final product to the keg I cold crash it first to get everything to settle out before it goes to the keg. Should I not cold crash the secondary before it goes into the keg and cold crash while in the keg? I do not want to lose any potential flavor.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If cold crashing helps get you clearer beer when racking then go for it. Good luck!

Kal

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drcraig



Joined: 04 May 2014
Posts: 33



PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any thoughts on a Galaxy substitution for this recipe? I can't get any locally and want to brew soon!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drcraig wrote:
Any thoughts on a Galaxy substitution for this recipe? I can't get any locally and want to brew soon!

I would simply go heavier on the other two hops.

Kal

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wscottcross



Joined: 03 Jul 2015
Posts: 219
Location: CT

Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout

Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drcraig wrote:
Any thoughts on a Galaxy substitution for this recipe? I can't get any locally and want to brew soon!


Vic Secret is another Australian hop that is a little more available and has somewhat similar characteristics.

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