Alternative Panel Face Layout

[GAParkins]

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I'm in the process of designing a system based on your design, and after reading the book several times, I wanted to make a couple of changes to your panel layout. There's a couple of minor differences, but I think it should work OK.

The goal is for a ½-bbl brewery using 30-gallon kettles. I don't like boilovers. The mash tun might be 20-gallon.

First, I find myself using all kinds of timers on brew day. Right now, I use a timer app on my iPad, which winds up getting booted around a bit, and is exposed to a spill risk. The first thing I wanted was more timers.

I'm going to build this as a single-tier, two-pump HERMS system, so I ditched one of the PID controllers in favor of a simple mash tun temperature monitor.

I'm going to build with 50A capacity, in case I need to use 2 elements at once at some point in the future, so I don't need the element selector switch.

I went with a Rittal 20 x 24 x 8 enclosure in the design. I like the extra room inside. I also designed around 96mm PID controllers, so I could see the numbers from across the room a little easier.

There are a few other changes, including the addition of an E-stop, reset and pause buttons for the timers, and a single alarm buzzer that will be tied to PID alarms and the timers. Since the subsystem generating the alarm might not be clear, I've added illuminated buttons for the temp alarm and timer rests.

I'm also going to add an interlock switch to the enclosure door that will shut the entire system down if the door is opened. That way, there will be limited line voltage present on the internals, and I should be able to cover the remaining hot terminals inside the enclosure.

On the plumbing side, I've drafted a semi-permanent setup that uses 3-way valves. I may back off of that in favor of disconnects or Tri-Clover clamps, but I think I can integrate CIP practices pretty easily. The plumbing design is still at the early draft stage.

Anyway...the plumbing layout and panel face designs are attached. Comments are most welcome.

[GAParkins]

I've spent the last couple of days working on getting my ideas down on paper. Attached are easier-to-view versions of what I attached to the first post. PDF downloads just aren't the right format for a Forum thread.

I made some changes, too. I think this is getting pretty close to what I'm going to do.

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[Tungsten]

I read through this yesterday - everything seems pretty well thought out to me based on how you brew. I did the same thing with the illuminated reset button for the two timers on my panel. I actually put the buzzer on mine on top of the panel next to the heatsink... it doesn't illuminate and I don't need to see it or press it so I just put it out of the way.

[GAParkins]

[Tungsten]

I thought of different buzzers too... maybe it's something I'd do down the road, although cutting holes in the panel after all the parts are installed seems risky if not silly. I wonder how different they are from each other.

[GAParkins]

That's why I added an alarm light near each source of alarm. Should provide a quick visual about whatever is unhappy.

[Tungsten]

Yep! I did the same, heh. Glad to see someone else is having the same (or at least similar) thought processes as I did!

[GAParkins]

I found a bunch more stuff that was wrong:

1) The output of the 50A contactor was feeding both 30A contactors off of one pair of wires through a pair of single-pole breakers. I doubled up on the output and ran each 30A feed pair through dedicated 2P breakers. Major screwup there.

2) There was no fusing on the pilot lights for the pumps. I also decided to use 20A 125/250V 4-conductor twist-lock connectors and receptacles so I can run a single cable to feed both pumps.

3) I changed the element feed cables to two pieces of #10AWG 3-cond. boat cable. I'll use 30A shore power cords and connectors. I had one ground supplying both kettles, which is another plus-sized screwup.

4) I relocated the ammeter CTs to L1 and L2 of the incoming main supply cable.

Any other changes were just cosmetic. Updated schematic attached.

[McGruber]

[GAParkins]

Thanks for the tip on the boilover preventer. I'll take a look at it next time I brew.

My plumbing diagram is attached. I'm using Visio for all of my design work, so my apologies if the symbols and pictograms aren't exactly up to ANSI standards.

All of the 3-way valves are type "T" configuration. Type "L" valves wouldn't work.

While complicated, I think this will make it possible to brew a few batches without touching hoses. Every fourth brew or so, I would take the whole thing apart for a through cleaning. Interim cleaning can be accomplished by running some PBW and StarSan through everything.

Also, this is just a rough plan. I am also considering quick disconnects, no 3-way valves, and about six hoses of about six feet in length.

[McGruber]

[GAParkins]

I started adding up the cost of TC hardware and developed what I sincerely hope is a transient case of bubble guts. I am determined to build my control panel without compromise, but I could see leaving the TC hardware on the post-boil side and sticking to barbs and clamps on the hot side.

My budget and cash flow is such that this will be an ongoing project for several months, so there is time for me to do some cost/benefit analysis on my options. For example, I was thinking of using aluminum extrusions from 80/20 to build a stand, but when I got to almost $800 just for the extrusions, the appeal of the Costco warehouse shelving stand went up a notch or two when I saw Brewinpilot89'sthread on his sweet-looking diamond plate rig.

I expect a number of compromises throughout my project. A battery of QD hoses and an "assemble as needed" aaproach might be the cheapest, and may be easy to upgrade later on.

One other complexity of the 3-way valve option is the complexity. Right now, I envision an aluminum plate with all of the valves mounted and labels for each possible configuration. One would still need a pretty comprehensive checklist to avoid pumping a PBW solution into a freshly-filled fermenter!

OTOH, replacing all of the 3-ways with motor-controlled units and a PLC with an HMI touchscreen would be a badass upgrade.

[McGruber]

[GAParkins]

I worked on Tiger Woods' boat a few years ago (shortly after his wife tossed a 9-iron through the back window of his Escalade). He is an avid spearfisherman, and the lazarette had a scuba tank-filling control panel that was able to mix three gasses, depending on the depth that he would be diving. That panel was an absolute thing of beauty, in polished stainless steel (never mind the varnished teak rack for his custom-made spearguns). Something like that is in the back of my mind as I go through the design of the stand.

[McGruber]

Sorry for the hastily drawn picture by my 10 year old. Just kidding. It's all me. If you mount the pumps, then you don't need a structure to hold anything else. It's self supporting. (It also looks better in person...)

6 - three way valves, not 8 or 14.

Edit: I got sick of fighting with my HopStopper and took it out; That's why I go in and out of the single Boil Kettle port. I whirlpool every batch now. The transfer time into the WP, circulating and resting takes less time than trying to suck through that dang screen.

[GAParkins]

I am looking at a boil kettle that incorporates a whirlpooling attachment. It would be out via the main drain and back in via the WP fitting. Might eliminate the third pump.