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5 gallon batches

 
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jtlemig




Joined: 08 Nov 2016
Posts: 3



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 2:23 am    Post subject: 5 gallon batches Reply with quote


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Hello all,

I am looking at building an electric brewery and am wondering about kettle size. I currently make 5 gallon batches and I think I'd actually like to continue making that batch size, for the most part. I may occasionally make 10 gallon batches, but for the most part, I see myself making 5 gallon batches at a time for for the foreseeable future.

However, given the cost of equipment, I don't want to buy 10 gallon kettles and then have to spend a ton to upgrade to bigger kettles when I want to be a part of the cool kids' 10gal batch club. Very Happy

So, my question is - can I brew 5 gallon batches using 20 gallon kettles? If so, what are the drawbacks/things to watch out for? I'm guessing I'll need to "overfill" the HLT to keep the HERMS coil completely submerged, even while sparging. I'm not concerned about having a couple gallons of wasted water per brew day (I'm guessing I'll be brewing max once per month, so that's an acceptable amount of loss for me). And depending on where the brewmometers are placed, they may not be submerged, so I won't get a reading on those. But the temp probes are low enough that I think it should not be a problem for the Control Panel to get a reading/signal? And as far as height of the heating elements, I believe 5-7.5 gallons in the boil kettle will keep the element covered? (my biggest boils on my current system can start out at ~7.5 gallons and end up down to ~5.5 gallons, depending on boil off for given style/recipe.)

So I guess I'm wondering are there any concerns or concrete reasons why I should NOT brew a 5 gallon batch using 20 gallon kettles?

Thanks!

Jon
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 3:04 am    Post subject: Re: 5 gallon batches Reply with quote

jtlemig wrote:
So, my question is - can I brew 5 gallon batches using 20 gallon kettles?

Yes! No problems at all.

Quote:
If so, what are the drawbacks/things to watch out for?

I recommend the kettles in our instructructions. Some others may have issues with channeling/side wall shunting with a grain bed that isn't very deep.

Quote:
I'm guessing I'll need to "overfill" the HLT to keep the HERMS coil completely submerged, even while sparging.

That would be recommended, but even half filled it will work fine given that lower volume of grain mass it's trying to keep warm.

Quote:
I'm not concerned about having a couple gallons of wasted water per brew day (I'm guessing I'll be brewing max once per month, so that's an acceptable amount of loss for me).

My thoughts too. Brewing is (unfortunately) somewhat water wasteful.

Quote:
And depending on where the brewmometers are placed, they may not be submerged, so I won't get a reading on those.

Correct. They're useless for me. I use the control panel / PID readouts.

Quote:
But the temp probes are low enough that I think it should not be a problem for the Control Panel to get a reading/signal?

The temp probes in the MLT and HLT are in the output plumbing so they will always read accurately. See the temp probe build article for the reasons why this is done: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/temperature-probes

In the boil it's very low in the kettle wall, below the 5 gallon mark, so no issues there.

Quote:
And as far as height of the heating elements, I believe 5-7.5 gallons in the boil kettle will keep the element covered?

Correct. I use 20 gallon kettles and the element at the highest point is below the 5 gallon mark. Remember too that you'll want to make more than 5 gallons anyway (post boil volume) due to the various losses. I'd recommend making 6 gallons post boil. At 212F (boiling) it's actually 6.25 gallons. So no issues.

Quote:
So I guess I'm wondering are there any concerns or concrete reasons why I should NOT brew a 5 gallon batch using 20 gallon kettles?

Nope. Good luck and welcome to the forum Jon!

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jtlemig




Joined: 08 Nov 2016
Posts: 3



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's great! Thanks for the feedback.

Quote:
I recommend the kettles in our instructructions. Some others may have issues with channeling/side wall shunting with a grain bed that isn't very deep.


I assume not having issues with grain bed channeling is one of the reasons why the Blichmanns are the recommended kettles? If so, is that due to the 1:2 diam/ht ratio? If that is the case, then I imagine other brands which have a similar 1:2 ratio will not suffer from that issue? From looking at the various manufacturers out there, I'm leaning toward Spike Brewing kettles, based on feature set for price point. They seem to be just as good as the Blichmanns or even better in some regards. For example, I'm not a big fan of the G2's linear flow valve or how much dead space there is under their false bottom. Although the way they have that shroud around the sight glass seems to be the best on the market. But in the end, the marketing for any brand is there to push their given product and it probably comes down to which manufacturer has the most "truth in advertising". I guess another thing that the Blichmann kettles have is you and many folks on this forum seem to truly be happy with them. I don't know anyone personally who has Spike kettles nor do I really have much anecdotal evidence other than some Facebook posts or forum posts on Homebrew Talk I've seen where people like Spike. Smile It's mostly been comparing specs from each of the manufacturers' sites and considering the value gained.

In any event, thanks again for the info. I appreciate it!

Jon
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jtlemig wrote:
Quote:
I recommend the kettles in our instructructions. Some others may have issues with channeling/side wall shunting with a grain bed that isn't very deep.

I assume not having issues with grain bed channeling is one of the reasons why the Blichmanns are the recommended kettles?

Yes, one of the reasons. The stepped bottom stops side wall shunting (not all kettles have this) and false bottom is (IMHO) the best I've seen. Works great.

Quote:
If so, is that due to the 1:2 diam/ht ratio? If that is the case, then I imagine other brands which have a similar 1:2 ratio will not suffer from that issue?

Correct.

Quote:
From looking at the various manufacturers out there, I'm leaning toward Spike Brewing kettles, based on feature set for price point. They seem to be just as good as the Blichmanns or even better in some regards.

Some thoughts/discussions on them here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=315946#315946
(Make sure to read the follow on posts too as some corrections were offered).

Quote:
For example, I'm not a big fan of the G2's linear flow valve or how much dead space there is under their false bottom.

Agreed on on the flow valve. I don't like it either. I wrote an article about replacing it here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27425

Fortunately it's easy and cheap to replace, but I wish you didn't have to. When I contacted John Blichmann about it when they first made the change he mentioned that they may consider giving customers the options of either valve at time of order but I don't think that's been done. There's likely a very large percentage of customers that are gravity draining / using a single kettle as a boil pot and that's it. Our 3 kettle advanced HERMS setups are likely a very small minority.

Quote:
Although the way they have that shroud around the sight glass seems to be the best on the market.

Yup. And very easy to clean too, does not need to removed/disassembled.

Quote:
I guess another thing that the Blichmann kettles have is you and many folks on this forum seem to truly be happy with them.

Correct. I'd buy them again if I had to, and begrudgingly replace the valve.

More info on why I like them here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/kettles-overview

Quote:
It's mostly been comparing specs from each of the manufacturers' sites and considering the value gained.

Remember that specs only give one side of the story. There are different ways to use kettles too based on your brewing process, so in some cases brand X may be best for a specific brewer while for someone else brand Y may make more sense. Thick clad bottoms are a great example - for someone building my design they're useless and only add weight and cost. For someone who wants to do an induction based setup they would be required.

There's definitely a lot of choices out there now as far as kettles go which is definitely a good thing! When I designed my setup around 2008 timeframe Blichmann was really the only option made specifically for brewing. All others were simply repurposed kettles. It's amazing to look back and see how much the hobby has grown in the last ~8-9 years. It's definitely a good time to be a brewer!

Good luck!

Kal

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jphussey




Joined: 17 Oct 2012
Posts: 171



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished my 20G Kal Clone and plan to brew a 5 gallon batch today. I had the ingredients left over from a recipe I designed for my old setup, so figured I'd just give em a go! I do plan to do 10G batches mostly, but I'll report back if I have any issues.

All your questions were great and exactly the things I've been working through as I do my leak tests/brew-day drills.

Welcome!
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jtlemig




Joined: 08 Nov 2016
Posts: 3



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds great, thanks for the note. I'd love to hear how it goes.

Good luck! Mug
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perogi




Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 850
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 07, 2018 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opening up this old thread. I'd like to brew a few 5-6 gallon batches and wondering how other people are doing with their set up. Thanks!
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windquest




Joined: 13 May 2018
Posts: 27
Location: Apache Jct, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Tue May 29, 2018 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

perogi wrote:
Opening up this old thread. I'd like to brew a few 5-6 gallon batches and wondering how other people are doing with their set up. Thanks!


Hello,
Long time lurker, and first time poster....you are Exactly where I am. Currently building the 30A set up from scratch..note to Kal I wish you had a true schematic available as well....

I think the system makes perfect sense....if you are going electric, then you can have electric control. Over the past months I have learned a lot to improve my brewing. Setting up pots, setting up a way to duplicate past successes. I have one beer that I brewed and it was better than fantastic, but I have never duplicated that batch! This will.

I choose 15 gal pots (economy SS) as I normally brew just 5 gals....I like some variety. This size will allow me to brew 10 gal with care, which I think perfect. The reason for economy SS pots is I am punching holes anyway, don't need the fancy bottom, don't need a sight glass and all three of my pots are about the price of one expensive one. Shop around, you can save hundreds if not thousands on the same functioning equipment.

This is a time to say "thank you" to Kal, sharing the design and the parts is something unheard of today. The design is solid and the kit or prewired offers the normal brewer a path to success without breaking the back. Well done, I really appreciate it and you and the web site has renewed my interest in brewing.

Henry
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue May 29, 2018 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

windquest wrote:
Currently building the 30A set up from scratch..note to Kal I wish you had a true schematic available as well....

On my todo list!

Quote:
This is a time to say "thank you" to Kal, sharing the design and the parts is something unheard of today. The design is solid and the kit or prewired offers the normal brewer a path to success without breaking the back. Well done, I really appreciate it and you and the web site has renewed my interest in brewing.

You're welcome Henry! And thank you for signing up as a Club Member and supporting our forum/website! It's appreciated and does make a difference!

Kal

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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
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windquest




Joined: 13 May 2018
Posts: 27
Location: Apache Jct, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal, after more reading and thinking, I think I have decided to go with 20 gal kettles. I am not sure I can justify Blitchmann for the boil and HLT, Mash maybe. Panel parts in so there is lots to do. Thanks again Kal for all you do.

Henry
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rcrabb22




Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 462
Location: Illinois


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW - I use this kettle for my HLT.

http://www.cozydays.com/cookware/stockpots/stockpot-lid-82-qt-stainless-steel-1197.html
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daboyce67




Joined: 15 Aug 2014
Posts: 43
Location: Hayward, Wisconsin


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgive me if this is really a clueless question, but on a similar note I originally started to build my system with 20 gallon HTL and BK and a 10 gallon MLT. I had previously purchased the 10 gallon BoilerMaker and to save some money at the time thought I'd use it for the BK. Sometime later I changed my mind and purchased a 20 gallon BM for the MLT. So, here's my question - since I happen to have both size MLTs, if doing 5 gallon batches, is there an advantage to using the 10 gallon MLT over the 20 gallon? Does the 10 gallon MLT work better with the smaller volume required for the 5 gallon batch or, would the 20 gallon, because of its larger circumference, afford more of the grain to be in contact with liquid, increasing the efficiency of the mash process?

Or is it strictly 6 of one ...?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

daboyce67 wrote:
Forgive me if this is really a clueless question, but on a similar note I originally started to build my system with 20 gallon HTL and BK and a 10 gallon MLT. I had previously purchased the 10 gallon BoilerMaker and to save some money at the time thought I'd use it for the BK. Sometime later I changed my mind and purchased a 20 gallon BM for the MLT. So, here's my question - since I happen to have both size MLTs, if doing 5 gallon batches, is there an advantage to using the 10 gallon MLT over the 20 gallon? Does the 10 gallon MLT work better with the smaller volume required for the 5 gallon batch or, would the 20 gallon, because of its larger circumference, afford more of the grain to be in contact with liquid, increasing the efficiency of the mash process?

Or is it strictly 6 of one ...?

There may be subtle mash efficiency extraction differences between doing a 5 gallon batch on a 10 vs 20 gallon Boilermaker kettle, with the 10 gallon having slightly higher mash efficiency due to the deeper grain bed when sparging. I would bet it's somewhat minimal and not worth the hassles of swapping kettles back and forth (let alone the added cost).

In both cases the grain to liquid contact would be the same (you haven't changed the amount of grain or liquid).

Kal

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cellarbrew




Joined: 29 Jun 2018
Posts: 2
Location: UK


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry if this is a silly question, but how do the (relatively high wattage) elements cope with doing the rolling boil on this reduced (5 gallon) volume? Do they cycle on and off based on the temp you put in the pid (I guess 100C for boil?)? I am just starting out and cant really afford the control board etc upfront and was trying to work out how to manually do small volumes in large pots so I don't have to upgrade the pots later.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cellarbrew wrote:
Sorry if this is a silly question, but how do the (relatively high wattage) elements cope with doing the rolling boil on this reduced (5 gallon) volume? Do they cycle on and off based on the temp you put in the pid (I guess 100C for boil?)? I am just starting out and cant really afford the control board etc upfront and was trying to work out how to manually do small volumes in large pots so I don't have to upgrade the pots later.

Hi and welcome to the forum!

For boiling you turn down the duty cycle which basically means the element is on less often. It turns on and off to maintain the boil. You can't use temperature at all as that won't work. You'd get to 100'C and the thing would turn off for 5-10 seconds or more until the temp drops and then it would kick back on. You can't set it higher (like 110'C) as otherwise it would be on all the time and boil possibly too hard.

Take a look here for a difference between "manual" (duty cycle) and "automatic" (temperature) modes used in PIDs: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=11

Cut and paste:

Quote:
Our PID controllers have two operating modes: Automatic or manual. We use both depending on which PID we're using:

Automatic mode (Hot Liquor Tank PID on the right): The bottom value (shown in green) is the target temperature (152F in our example above). The PID turns the Hot Liquor Tank element on and off until this temperature is reached. Once the temperature starts to approach the target temperature, the PID will "slow down" by firing the element less often in order not to overshoot. The PID will then continue to monitor the temperature and fire the element in short bursts to maintain the target temperature.

Manual mode (Boil Kettle PID on the left): The bottom value (shown in green) is the duty cycle and shows "M100" which stands for 'Manual 100%'. Duty cycle is the percentage of time that the element will remain on over a given period of time (called cycle time). For example, at 100% the element will remain on all the time while at 10% the element will only turn on for 10% of the cycle time. The default cycle time when using SSRs is 2 seconds, so the element would fire for 0.2 seconds every 2 seconds. When on, the element is on at full power.

So why can't we use automatic mode in the Boil Kettle for boiling? Boiling water never goes above 212F so setting the PID to 212F or higher would result in the element firing continuously which may result in a too vigorous boil. Instead, we run the PID in manual mode at 100% until boil is reached and then turn it down to maintain the boil.

Even though most of the time we use the Boil Kettle PID in manual mode, automatic mode can be useful too: It helps us minimize the chance of 'boil overs'. When wort first starts to boil it foams up considerably. If left unattended (brewers are easily distracted), it will result in messy boil-overs. To avoid this, when we're overly busy we run the PID in automatic mode with the temperature set to just below boiling (208F). We also set the alarm to sound once that temperature is reached. The wort is then automatically heated to just below boiling without going any higher, and the alarm sounds. We then switch over to manual mode and continue heating while watching and stirring to avoid the initial boil over.

Automatic mode is also useful in the Boil Kettle when extended hop stands are performed. A dial type control for the boil does not allow for this sort of control. During a hop stand hops are added and steeped at specific temperatures for extended durations after the boil is completed. The Alchemist's Heady Topper is likely the world's most famous beer that makes use of this process. Our Electric Hop Stand Pale Ale also employs this method.


Cheers!

Kal

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cellarbrew




Joined: 29 Jun 2018
Posts: 2
Location: UK


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Kal,

thanks for the response and the awesome website. Been a long time lurker and keep coming back to look and try and learn. I think I might have to do my boil temp another way until I can find more funds. Looking at doing voltage regulation on the elements during the boil.
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