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No Hose Move Brew Session Setup
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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 843
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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ParadiseBrew - thanks for the info.

Those mats are no joke!! They must weigh 50#s The rubber smell is a bit overpowering but hoping a few days outside will get rid of it.

Thinking about using a few for the floor too but lugging them back outside to hose down might be a nightmare.
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 237
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see this thread is revived from about a year ago. I used a lot of the ideas shared here here to design a no-move system as well. It's taken a few slight tweaks, but I now have it the way I like it. I have a three pump system and a dedicated whirlpool which is a little different than most. There's no schematic drawn up, so you'll just have to follow the hoses in the pictures.

You might notice that I used the ball valve AND the dial-type valves on the boil kettle in/out and the MLT inlet. I did that do easier adjust the sparge flow rate. I just open the ball valves all the way and dial the knob type the same distance on both to get a pretty comparable flow. I still have to tweak it a little and keep an eye on it, but I find this is a lot easier than moving the ball valve handles micrometers and still having a large difference in flow.

The sample valves are to help with priming the pumps. Often I don't need to use them, but when I do I'm sure glad I have them. The sight glasses are also super helpful in determining if there's actually flow or not. I've wasted plenty of time before because I didn't know the pump wasn't moving any fluid.

I do still have to disconnect the MLT, Boil Kettle and whirlpool and bring them to the sink to wash out residual spent grain and trub, but otherwise I leave everything in place. After brewing I put about 10 gallons of PBW solution in the HLT, and flush out all the pumps, lines, valves, and wort chiller, and then rinse with another 10 gallons of water. I'd still like to hook up a quick disconnect for CO2 at the HLT pump to blow all the water out of the lines - I've just been holding a CO2 tube up to an open fitting to blow it out in the meantime. All in all though I'm pretty happy with this set up. No more burnt hands, sticky drips on the floor, and random puddles of dried wort under the pots.



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Boil kettle - wort goes in and out of valve. No hop screen.
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Whirlpool - outlet on left, inlet on right
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mjo2125



Joined: 27 Feb 2017
Posts: 243
Location: Dayton, OH

Drinking: Pale Ale, Yorkshire Bitter, Mango Blonde Ale

Working on: Retro American Lager


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome - how long is your typical brew day?
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 237
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mjo2125 wrote:
Awesome - how long is your typical brew day?

I've only brewed three times on this no-move setup and I've been writing down all my times, but haven't actually calculated the average. Still about 6 hours for actual brewing I think. I got really tired of the very slow transfer out of the boil kettle using a hop screen, and I was whirlpooling anyway, so I don't use any hop screen any more (I have a similar BK set up as JonyMac if you look up that post). I hand whirlpool in the boil kettle at flame-out and then transfer through a tube placed at the raised lip of the side of the boil kettle at a moderate rate into the whirlpool. I actively WP for 15 min and let it rest for 15 min, and I think that's still quite a bit faster than when I was dealing with the hop screens.

I've been playing with the gap on my mill though and have had more than a couple mashes that start to stick and require stirring and rice hull additions. Once I get that dialed in, I'm hoping it'll be faster. This no-move system saves effort (and especially mess) during brewing, and I'd say it definitely makes cleaning easier/ less messy - but I wouldn't say it's necessarily faster or slower to overall brew day. Just easier. After rinsing and blowing out with CO2 I just hook the lines back up to the rinsed MLT, BK and WP and am all set to go again.


Last edited by McGruber on Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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Firebrewmedic43



Joined: 23 Dec 2014
Posts: 101
Location: Tennessee

Drinking: barrel-aged Foreign Export Stout

Working on: Helles


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gru,
one way I cut time off my brew day is i grind a few days before and the night before i go ahead and start heating my strike water. I like using a hop spider. It has really made a difference in what I take over into my primary, Its very clean.
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 237
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firebrewmedic43 wrote:
Gru,
one way I cut time off my brew day is I grind a few days before and the night before I go ahead and start heating my strike water. I like using a hop spider. It has really made a difference in what I take over into my primary, It's very clean.

Nice. I usually fill up my HLT and MLT the night before and measure my mineral additions. Morning of I set everything heating and while that's going I weigh out and mill the grain, calibrate my meters, check HLT pH, etc. Water hits temp before I'm done. It's been working well for me, but I see what you're saying. That would speed me up quite a bit.

I looked into the spider and I know it has lots of good reviews, I'm sure it's an improvement on the other hop options as far as transfer rate goes. I just figured that pro brewers don't have a hop spider, so I personally wanted to replicate that method even with the pros and cons (trub piles and extra steps) - also why I went with a dedicated WP. What ends up in my fermenter is actually very clean. There's a big pile of trub in the boil kettle left over with very little wort left, and I can tell what I'm pulling out the WP is also very clean.

The biggest things that slow down my day are ramping up mash temp (about 30 - 40 min for each temp ramp = 2 or 3 times), and sparging (1 gallon in 5 min = about 65 min). I transfer from boil to WP over about 10 min and WP for 30 min. It would be nice if the overall brew day was faster. I ran-off/ sparged at double that rate one time and didn't hit my numbers at all, so went back to the slow rate.

How long is it taking you guys to brew?
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Firebrewmedic43



Joined: 23 Dec 2014
Posts: 101
Location: Tennessee

Drinking: barrel-aged Foreign Export Stout

Working on: Helles


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't actually timed my total time from turn of the on switch to storing my fermenters. The factor usually becomes how many friends/fellow brewers are over and of course how many beers...lol I do try to limit my intake to just a couple during mashing through hop additions. But I know I usually have 4 plus hours in the process. I guess I haven't really kept a clock because my brew day is planned for just that and the camaraderie with friends/fellow homebrewers. I do try not to have anything on tap that day as after the fermenters are stored we usually breakout other libations and of course food.
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