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Tap water through iced HLT coil to chiller? Any thoughts?
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David_H




Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 139
Location: Savannah, GA

Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Ricky,
I have a SS Convoluted Counterflow Chiller (CFC) (tube in a tube) and a Counterflow Plate Chiller (CPC). Both of these work on the same principle of flowing hot wort in one direction and the chilling water in the other direction. This allows for a near constant delta temperature(dT) between the two liquids. The higher the delta T the better the heat transfer. I was never able to get my CFC to work well, which is why I switched to the CPC. However, there are many that have very successfully chilled with the CFC.

Things that you should try to get your CFC to work.
1) Measure the outflow temperatures on both the wort and the chilling water.
2) Put a valve downstream of the CFC on the wort side. This will assure that the chiller is always full of wort, you can't chill it if it is not in the chiller.
3) Try increasing the flow of wort and watch the output temperature. You need some flow rate to allow the convolutions to mix the wort and allow for the maximum heat transfer.
4) The prechiller is probably not the best use of the ice. The chilling water flow at full speed is not going to get much colder as it passes through the prechiller. Try putting all of the ice in a large cooler or your HLT and using a pump to push the ice chilled water directly through the CFC.

The gylcol chiller will not work. Most chillers only have a few gallons of chilled glycol and the refrigerating unit will not have sufficient capacity to chill the wort. Here's the math. 10 gallons of 200F wort to 70F is 8.34lb/gal * 10 gal * (200-70) = 10,842 BTU. A consumer sized refrigeration unit will typically be in the 5-10K BTU, meaning 5-10K BTU per hour, so it would take an hour or more at 100% efficiency (which you will not get).

Good luck and keep us informed.

David

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David

Kal Clone Controller
20 gallon Spike Brewing 3-Kettle System
SS Brewtech 14 gallon fermenter w/ gycol chiller
4 tap keezer with Nitro Tap
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rickysa




Joined: 13 Mar 2013
Posts: 136
Location: Southern Pines NC


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow Dave, thanks for the feedback!!!

1.
Quote:
Measure the outflow temperatures on both the wort and the chilling water.
outflow of the chilling water is generally the same as the wort temp because the flow of the wort is so slow.

3.
Quote:
Try increasing the flow of wort and watch the output temperature
any increase at all results in an astronomic increase in the wort temp.

4.
Quote:
Try putting all of the ice in a large cooler or your HLT and using a pump to push the ice chilled water directly through the CFC.
That's what I was trying to do with the pre-chiller (50' x 1/2" Cu) in a six gallon bucket.

I'm happy to try anything....do you recommend just the CPC? or a combination of methods...a valve downstream of my current set-up would be cumbersome, but I'll build anything!
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David_H




Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 139
Location: Savannah, GA

Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
4. Try putting all of the ice in a large cooler or your HLT and using a pump to push the ice chilled water directly through the CFC.

That's what I was trying to do with the pre-chiller (50' x 1/2" Cu) in a six gallon bucket.

My suggestion was to NOT use a prechiller, but rather to use the ice water directly. Put the ice in as large of container as you have use the ice water as the chilling water. This way your chilling water will be much colder, mid-40's to mid 50's.

[EDIT I hit submit too soon. ]

I choose to switch to the CPC. For me it works (so far). There are some significant trade offs. The liquid flow path in the CPC is must smaller and you have to be careful with trub getting stuck inside the plates. For the same reason the CPC is more difficult to clean. So before you blindly switch to the Plate Chiller, due your own due diligence. I found a number of brewers switching away from the Plate Chiller due to the reasons I just mentioned. I have a fine mesh filter ahead of my Plate Chiller to help reduce some of these risks.

David

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David

Kal Clone Controller
20 gallon Spike Brewing 3-Kettle System
SS Brewtech 14 gallon fermenter w/ gycol chiller
4 tap keezer with Nitro Tap
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wscottcross




Joined: 03 Jul 2015
Posts: 212
Location: CT

Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout

Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had good luck use either a copper or stainless scrubby on the boil kettle pickup tube with my plate chiller. No issues so far and the chilling capacity of plate chillers is nothing short of amazing if you can come up with a way of filtering prior to the chiller. They definitely have down sides and require some work to mitigate those issues, but totally worth it IMHO.
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Kal clone controller, 30 gallon Spike Brewing kettles, 6 tap keezer
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rickysa




Joined: 13 Mar 2013
Posts: 136
Location: Southern Pines NC


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, here's what I've come up with...

(extra) Keezer that is now holding 125 gal water at 35 degrees...plumbed directly to the CFC. Do I send the "water out" (from the chiller) back to the keezer or discard? What kind of flow rate...full bore (from the pump) or graduated?

It's a (fun) experiment, but I thought I'd toss it out for initial parameters Thumbs Up
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David_H




Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 139
Location: Savannah, GA

Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick,
The keezer will not have the cooling capacity to chill the heated "water out" effectively. If you return this water to the chilled water in the keezer all you will do is heat up your previous chilled water. You should not need more than about 30-40 gallons of chilled water to cool your wort down to pitching temperature. You should either discard or collect in a different container and return to the keezer after the wort is all chilled.

As far as the flow rate; if you have a thermometer on the outflow side of both the wort and the chilling water, you should adjust the cooling water flow to achieve the wort outflow temperature you are looking for.

I have used about a flow rate ratio of 3:1; Cooling Water:Wort.

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David

Kal Clone Controller
20 gallon Spike Brewing 3-Kettle System
SS Brewtech 14 gallon fermenter w/ gycol chiller
4 tap keezer with Nitro Tap
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Ozarks Mountain Brew




Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 737
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive come up with an easy solution to chilling through the htl coil, Ive used a hundred or so drinking water bottles this sumer, I decided to start freezing them in my deep freeze, so on brew day I just put in as many as I could then added water and recirculated it, ran my wort through the coil slow and right into the carboy, it worked like a charm "but" since I usually whirlpool until the temp reaches 170 it was much easier than starting from 200
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"Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world."
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jeremy2027




Joined: 23 Apr 2016
Posts: 12
Location: Groves, TX


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2016 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fill my hlt with ice and a 5 gallon bucket full of 40 degree water from the fridge. I pump the ice water using a pond pump from the hlt to the cfc then back through a 50 ft 3/8 immersion chiller that sits in the hlt as well. This creates a loop and saves a ton of water since the immersion chiller is cooling the exhaust water that gets put back in the hlt. It takes about 30 mins or so to chill 6 gallons of boiling wort to 68 degrees. when I'm done I still have some ice in the hlt that I reheat to clean up and flush pumps, hoses and kettles.
The key is ice water through the cfc and then cooling the exhaust water to recirculate.
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