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Using a standard water heater element in HLT

 
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dp Brewing Company




Joined: 08 Jul 2013
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Location: Midwest

Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes

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PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 2:10 pm    Post subject: Using a standard water heater element in HLT Reply with quote


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I'm getting ready to add a second element to my HLT and was curious if ultra low density is really needed or just preferred. I understand why you would want on in your Boil Kettle but not sure if it matters in the HLT being it is just heating up water. My reason for wanting a standard element would be local availability, and about half the price.

Currently have 5500 watt 240v element in both HLT and BK. Wanting to add a 2500 watt 240v element in addition to the one already in there. Anything to save a few more minutes off of wait time and ramping up time for Sparging.

Thanks in advance for anyone's input!

-David
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chastuck




Joined: 06 Oct 2013
Posts: 193
Location: Beckenham, Kent, UK

Drinking: Bitter

Working on: IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 2400W stainless steel but standard element in both my HLT and BK in addition to the Camco SS 5500W elements. I power them from my 30A standard control panel (with my own mods) via a break out box. The ramp up time with the HLT is vastly improved. As for the BK, when the boiling point is reached I switch out the 2400W element. Again, rapid rise to boil time is very evident. I have never had problems with caramalisation or other ill effects from using dual elements.
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kal
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Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ULWD elements tend to not fry as easily if dry fired by accident so that's a benefit in any kettle.

And the biggest reason: That local element you can buy will also likely not have a stainless base, so it will most likely develop rust in the HLT.

That's why I recommend stainless base elements such as these: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/stainless-steel-heating-elements

See here in my Instagram feed for pictures of my ULWD non-stainless base heating elements taken from my boil kettle and HLT after a few years of use: https://www.instagram.com/p/BDly1_JIKvS

Kal

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dp Brewing Company




Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest

Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes

Working on: Nothing


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked at my local Lowe's today over lunch and they didn't have the selection I thought they would. I will most likely purchase through Amazon. Just need to get some measurements on how long the element can be. I know the standard 5,500 one won't fit in the location I already have drilled. It hits the drain tube.
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wscottcross




Joined: 03 Jul 2015
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Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout

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PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be aware that these elements are pretty soft and easy to bend. I took a 5500W ULWD ripple element and bent it pretty much straight. I did this so it's easier to get in and out of the 1.5" TC fitting in my boil kettle. If you need to, you can bend the element to one side or the other to avoid the drain tube.
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chastuck




Joined: 06 Oct 2013
Posts: 193
Location: Beckenham, Kent, UK

Drinking: Bitter

Working on: IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
ULWD elements tend to not fry as easily if dry fired by accident so that's a benefit in any kettle.

And the biggest reason: That local element you can buy will also likely not have a stainless base, so it will most likely develop rust in the HLT.

That's why I recommend stainless base elements such as these: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/stainless-steel-heating-elements

See here in my Instagram feed for pictures of my ULWD non-stainless base heating elements taken from my boil kettle and HLT after a few years of use: https://www.instagram.com/p/BDly1_JIKvS

Kal

Kal, you are a genius when it comes to your Electric Brewery design, and I know you want to naturally support those web sites that support you, but nonetheless I think you need to give a bit of slack to other suppliers of elements. It is perfectly possible to buy complete stainless steel elements, including bases, from other sources. Here in the UK, and Europe, we have several high quality suppliers who can match anything Camco can produce. It's down to individuals to satisfy themselves that they are getting the quality components that they desire. Caveat Emptor rules!
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kal
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Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure! shadowpaige64507 however mentioned wanting to buy locally to save money:

shadowpaige64507 wrote:
My reason for wanting a standard element would be local availability, and about half the price.
I checked at my local Lowe's today over lunch and they didn't have the selection I thought they would.

Around here where I live none of the local stores (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) carry all stainless heating elements as they're specialized. That's the main point I was trying to make, that he's likely not going to find an stainless heating element locally like he wants because they're specialized/not carried by local suppliers. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

Kal

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dp Brewing Company




Joined: 08 Jul 2013
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Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes

Working on: Nothing


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wscottcross wrote:
Be aware that these elements are pretty soft and easy to bend. I took a 5500W ULWD ripple element and bent it pretty much straight. I did this so it's easier to get in and out of the 1.5" TC fitting in my boil kettle. If you need to, you can bend the element to one side or the other to avoid the drain tube.


I had heard you could bend them but I was afraid it would affect the heating ability of the element. Glad to hear from someone who has done it with no side affects.

Just purchased my new Mash Tun this week so I will have a wait a week or two to order the new element. I realize they are only like $18's but I better wait. I tend to get really focused and not care about spending and end up with large credit card debt. Well, that was the old me. Not sure why I'm sharing all of this...Anyway thanks for the response!


Last edited by dp Brewing Company on Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it won't affect it. You can bend them quite a bit. Just be careful not to put all the stress in one spot.

Kal

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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
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wscottcross




Joined: 03 Jul 2015
Posts: 212
Location: CT

Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout

Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before:

After:

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