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SSR keep failing, need help

 
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OldPikeBrewery




Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Holland, MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:20 pm    Post subject: SSR keep failing, need help Reply with quote


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I built a kal clone control panel, I started with a smaller heat sink and blew 2 ssr relays on the HLT side so I bought the big heat exchanger from the electric brewery and on my second batch I blew the HLT ssr again. The barn is only 45 degrees and it didn't seem like it was getting hot until the relay blew out. I bought Amazon relays from the link on the electric brewery. Any thoughts? Am I doing something wrong? Or is it a cheap batch of relays. Electric brewing supply has ssr's that look the same as the ones I have and they rebrand them so who knows where they came from. Auber Instruments has them and they look much higher quality but they are $20-30 and if it's something else I'd rather not blow them too. Thanks
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Tungsten




Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What brand SSR was it?

Really hard to tell without seeing your setup if anything's wrong, but there aren't a lot of things that could go wrong. Are the SSRs flush with the heatsink? Did you use any thermal compound (I don't think it should matter much, but it would help).
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huaco




Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1506
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go with the Auber relays. Yeah, they are a bit pricey, but you've likely spent that much in time and money replacing your old ones.

I may be mistaken, but I believe the links here on the site only take you to the proper search results. Not any particular vendor selling a prescribed part.
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OldPikeBrewery




Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Holland, MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tungsten wrote:
What brand SSR was it?

Really hard to tell without seeing your setup if anything's wrong, but there aren't a lot of things that could go wrong. Are the SSRs flush with the heatsink? Did you use any thermal compound (I don't think it should matter much, but it would help).


They are FOTEK SSR-40 DA

I have them mounted directly to the heat sink with thermo compound.

Funny thing is the boil gets used more and at full power and that one is still original.
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OldPikeBrewery




Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Holland, MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huaco wrote:
I'd go with the Auber relays. Yeah, they are a bit pricey, but you've likely spent that much in time and money replacing your old ones.

I may be mistaken, but I believe the links here on the site only take you to the proper search results. Not any particular vendor selling a prescribed part.


That is probably what I'll do, just trying to rule out a faulty PID or something funky.
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OldPikeBrewery




Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Holland, MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to an 80 amp relay wouldn't help would it?
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Tungsten




Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Foteks can be very, very hit-or-miss. Some people have great luck with them - others not so much.

There was recently a thread somewhere about some of them being fraudulently made somewhere in China (with a link to the UL website) but I can't remember if it was here or over at HBT.
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OldPikeBrewery




Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Holland, MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just ordered the Auber ones, I'll try to remember to post back after a couple of brew days. Thanks for the help
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OldPikeBrewery wrote:
I have them mounted directly to the heat sink with thermo compound.

Not too much? You need to use just enough to fill gaps. Spread a tiny amount evenly, squish the two parts together, then pull apart to make sure that there's no air gaps.

Also make sure to have the heat sink outside the panel. It needs air flow. (Sorry if this is obvious).

Kal

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OldPikeBrewery




Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Holland, MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
OldPikeBrewery wrote:
I have them mounted directly to the heat sink with thermo compound.

Not too much? You need to use just enough to fill gaps. Spread a tiny amount evenly, squish the two parts together, then pull apart to make sure that there's no air gaps.

Also make sure to have the heat sink outside the panel. It needs air flow. (Sorry if this is obvious).

Kal


Thermo compound looks good, even after they blow. It's exactly like the electric brewery's. Heat sink mounted outside on top with ssr's mounted directly to the heat sink a few inches apart. I'll see if I can get pics later.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries - pictures aren't needed unless you want to confirm. Sounds like you got a dud or two which is unfortunate. As others have mentioned the Foteks can be hit or miss.

Kal

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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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Paulusatp




Joined: 23 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Fotek issues are ubiquitous on the Internet. Luckily mine failed during the cleaning cycle and not in the midst of brewing. I just ordered an Auber Instruments 40 Amp SSR. I will keep you all posted.
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OldPikeBrewery




Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Holland, MI


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: 4 batches in and no issues with the Auber Instrument SSRs. I did 3 back to back batches really giving them a work out and it was all good. I'm assuming the cheap relays were the culprit. Thanks for the help to all! I will report back if one fails but it's looking up!
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Paulusatp




Joined: 23 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed an Auber SSR (40A)
I did two batches and a subsequent cleaning cycle: it's still working.
Go Auber.
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Lakeside




Joined: 14 Dec 2015
Posts: 2
Location: Atlanta Metro


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silly question but how did you know they blew other than the obvious the Heating Element would not fire?

Did you let the Smoke Out or nice burning plastic smell?
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Paulusatp




Joined: 23 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The LED stopped lighting up.
I took the SSR out, and bench tested it with a multimeter and a 9V battery. As control I used a similar relay and subjected it to the same test. That one worked.
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Lakeside




Joined: 14 Dec 2015
Posts: 2
Location: Atlanta Metro


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah good ole trial and error when the Blinky Light stopped blinking.
I've never worked with SSR and PID's until lately.
I know quite a bit about Mechanical Relays etc, hence my question.

Thanks
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Paulusatp




Joined: 23 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same here. It's a rather quick learning curve though, and my frugality bit me (again). I will avoid buying Chinese (except for the food).
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Mike614




Joined: 04 Jan 2016
Posts: 6
Location: Columbus, OH


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As reported by another member (http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28543), many of the Fotek SSRs are counterfeit. Underwriters Laboratory issued a warning:

https://ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

I bought a "Fotek" (mine is one of the counterfeit ones) through an Amazon 3rd party seller three years ago. I had planned a project that never materialized. I was about to use it in a brew controller for my son when I saw the report linked above. I just ordered a Crydon D2450 from DigiKey for about $50. That's a lot more than I paid for the Fotek, but I'm pretty sure this is the real thing.

This is really disconcerting, because faking the UL certification label on a high current electrical device can be very serious.
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