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Need controller for boiling only?

 
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BootleggerBrewing




Joined: 03 Nov 2015
Posts: 2
Location: Apple Valley, Mn


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:42 pm    Post subject: Need controller for boiling only? Reply with quote


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I am a kombucha brewer and will be setting up brew kettles to bring water to a boil only- I am going to be using the ULWD heating element kits, and was looking at just using an AGPtek K-Type SNR PID Temperature Controller (link below) to adjust input and temp. I won't need to sustain temperature over time- Is this set up sufficient, or am I missing something?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007H5GQUY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007H5GQUY&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=XCQ5N7T2JRHIRF3H

Thanks
Mug
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itsnotrequired




Joined: 15 Sep 2015
Posts: 177
Location: central wi


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you need to sustain a boil for any length of time? or simply bring to a boil, like for sanitation? if only need to bring to a boil, you wouldn't need a controller at all.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A PID with manual and auto mode lets you (a) adjust the vigorousness of the boil when in manual mode, and (b) hold a specific temp when in auto mode.

You may power the heating element directly but keep in mind that you may need some way to throttle power (otherwise it'll be on 100%). Normally people use our control panel for this. It's here: www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel

If you're only boiling then running it 100% may be fine if your volume of beer is adequate for the element size: A 5500W heating element is good for boiling 8-20 gallons or so, or possibly more (depending on kettle configuration/insulation, ambient temperature, use of a kettle chimney, etc.). If boiling less, use the 4500W heating element instead.

If you use our ultra-low-watt-density (ULWD) that we recommend there will not be any problems with caramelization in the boil. See the heating elements here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits

The worse thing that will happen is that you simply boil off too much water if the element is too powerful for the amount of wort.

If not using our control panel you should have a way to turn the heating element on/off. Plugging it in/unplugging it is not a safe way to turn it on/off as there is a large amount of current that runs through the element. You should really have some sort of switch that is meant to handle 240V/30A for both the 4500W or 5500W element. A simple way to do this is to use a sub-panel breaker box off the main breaker panel, located near where you're using the heating element so it's easy to turn on/off. You would use a 2-pole GFI breaker rated for 240V/30A in this sub-panel breaker box as the switch to switch the 4500W or 5500W element on/off. (Some brewers do simply plug them in/out to turn the heating elements on/off, but we feel it best to let people know the proper safe way to do things whenever possible).

For heating to specific temperatures such as is done in the Hot Liquor Tank however, there is no simple way to do this with without a control panel of some sort (which has a PID running in auto mode). Turning the element on/off periodically to try and maintain a specific temperature is not only very difficult but will grow tiresome after a few hours.

Good luck!

Kal

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BootleggerBrewing




Joined: 03 Nov 2015
Posts: 2
Location: Apple Valley, Mn


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal
itsnotrequired- that is correct, just bringing to a boil initially- Kombucha does not require a sustained temp boil- Essentially just brewing tea, so I'll bring it up to 210 and let it brew. I may look into holding it at 75 later, but looking at other options as well.

Thanks again for your input!
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itsnotrequired




Joined: 15 Sep 2015
Posts: 177
Location: central wi


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you only need on-off control, you could also get a 30 amp snap switch (like a light switch on the wall). but like kal mentioned, you'll want some gfci protection on that circuit.
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DFITZ




Joined: 10 Jul 2014
Posts: 32



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've put a few simple controllers together using this.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444
If you're interested, look at the link and search further for a small box, heat sink, relay and get some wire together as you'll need and you're in business. You can build a simple controller for a little over $130.
There are less expensive routes.
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