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FBC Brewery Build
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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asparknz wrote:
Amazing!!

How are you chilling your fermenters?


Thanks asparknz. You have a wonderful website! Your control panel looks familiar. Smile I am good friends/ basically family with a gal from Fairlie, NZ (small town outside Christchurch). I'd love to come visit your neck of the woods sometime.

I have a fridge that holds bottles or kegs, but not both at the same time due to having to place or remove shelves. I have plans and parts to build individual fermentation chambers using a glycol recirculating system, solenoids, a transmission cooler, and a 24 V PID similar to Kal's. I'll post more on it later ) Most of my online questions regarding the build have been met with silence, so I'll give it a go and see what happens! Cheers!

(EDIT: Completed Build here! - http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30544)


Last edited by McGruber on Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:46 pm; edited 2 times in total
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's what I did for air flow. I have a hood and vent that are the same as Kal's. I really didn't want to permanently modify the bedroom by drilling huge holes in the foundation or having to re-do the ceiling. I decided to go out the window, just on brew days.

I made a piece of OSB board (which I don't think was the best choice) and painted it with weather-proof spray paint (jury's out if this was a good idea), with a 6" vertical vent for steam and heat with a vent cap. There's an air return (the bottom piece in both pictures) that brings fresh air in under the SS table at about the distance of the MLT.

The air flow is great. It's a little awkward to set up, and take down but not too bad. The junctions of the power vent and flexible tubing, and the inside lower 90 where it meets the vertical stack are "soft" joints. They come apart at those points when I'm not brewing. I did drill a hole in the bottom of the stack at the 90 to alleviate condensation pooling.

I don't want to put any more holes in walls, but let me know if you have any suggestions.

EDIT: I removed the stack entirely. I have less headache attaching the window insert into the stack, and ventilation still works great.



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Tennessee



Joined: 04 Apr 2015
Posts: 112
Location: Tennessee


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW, your build is SICK! Very cool lighting. Is that a stainless peg board ?
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Kal Clone (30amp),Mash Re-Circulation Manifold, Custom BK Hop Filter.
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tennessee wrote:
BTW, your build is SICK! Very cool lighting. Is that a stainless peg board ?


Thanks! It's the AllSpace Wall Organization System. I saw it sitting by itself on a different pile of stuff in Costco and thought it was perfect. I probably would have bought two, but apparently it was the last one in the store. I looked online to see where else to get it, and hit dead ends. It's great though.
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silverspoons



Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great look and nice job. can you post the source of the edison cages lights?
transforming a barn into a bedroom suite and those would be great in the bathroom

Silverspoons
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rcrabb22



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 461
Location: Illinois


PostLink    Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

silverspoons wrote:
Great look and nice job. can you post the source of the edison cages lights?
transforming a barn into a bedroom suite and those would be great in the bathroom

Silverspoons


From our friends at Amazon. YOBO has several variations it seems.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMLLP60/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00KMLLP60&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=WGPKHLYXSH35KQUV

Link updated to support our site at no additional cost to you - we thank you!
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

silverspoons wrote:
Great look and nice job. can you post the source of the edison cages lights?
transforming a barn into a bedroom suite and those would be great in the bathroom

Silverspoons


Thank you! Here is the cage/ bulb I got. It's strange that two of the pictures show a little "shorty" bulb as I don't remember those when I bought mine. My bulbs do fill the length of the cage, with just enough room to unscrew them and take them out without undoing the cage.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9PA2BK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00N9PA2BK&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=XK5II5WLPLWCOWMR

Link updated to support our site at no additional cost to you - we thank you!

If you search "EcoPower Cage Edison Light" on Amazon it pulls up all the ones I was looking at from various sellers. These pendant style lights were cheaper to buy individually than the individual or paired sconces. I got these since I knew I would be disassembling them anyway to mount to the pipe.
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Anticlimaddox



Joined: 05 Feb 2016
Posts: 89
Location: Harrisonburg, VA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey McGruber -

VERY nice work! Your lighting fits the style of my brewery perfect, I appreciate you sharing. Can I ask how you attached the light fixture to the T pipe fitting? Almost looks like there is an adjustable lighting grip similar to film equipment I've used. Or was it just something reengineered that came with the pendants?

Cheers.
// brian

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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anticlimaddox wrote:
Hey McGruber -

Can I ask how you attached the light fixture to the T pipe fitting? Almost looks like there is an adjustable lighting grip similar to film equipment I've used. Or was it just something reengineered that came with the pendants?

Cheers.
// brian


Hi Brian,

If you use the same lighting system I did, this is how I did it. IMG 2067 and IMG 2070 show the light parts: electrical cord with a dense plastic/ metal nut at the bottom of the picture, a metal housing for holding the socket assembly (this part is necessary to secure the cage), and the threaded socket part (there's a large plastic nut that screws down the socket to the housing which holds the cage to the center-metal piece). The plastic socket fits through the housing and screws into that plastic nut on the cord.



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Last edited by McGruber on Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMG 2075 shows the light system assembled as I tried to figure out how to mount it. Since the socket screws into the plastic nut on the cord, and the pieces don't all fit inside the metal elbow, AND there's no way to mount the metal housing to the elbow while still being able to attach the socket to the nut...

...I instead removed the plastic nut all-together. I placed the metal housing over the elbow and struck it to mark where to drill holes so it could be mounted. (IMG 2076), and then sanded it and JB-welded a nut to the bottom of the housing. That way I could screw the housing to the elbow, and the socket into the housing (IMG 2080)



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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The part you're talking about is a 1/2" NPT threaded elbow that I got from a specialty lighting store that I stumbled across while I was looking for ideas. They do antique lighting restorations and custom design lighting systems. I'm not sure what the part is called exactly. They offered to build what I wanted but it was super expensive and would have taken a long time. The guy was nice enough to simply sell me the elbows. I briefly looked online for more and to compare cost, but couldn't find any. I used a plumbing reducing washer (1 1/2" to 1 1/4") to make the assembly more stable on the elbow, and fill a small gap.

Then I sanded it all, taped it, and spray painted it all with a textured black paint.

I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any questions, and good luck!



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Anticlimaddox



Joined: 05 Feb 2016
Posts: 89
Location: Harrisonburg, VA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is perfect. Appreciate the thorough answer, i'll spend some time this weekend tracking down some parts. Have a great one!
Cheers // brian

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Rebuilding the brewery!
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Campana93



Joined: 06 Feb 2016
Posts: 1
Location: Delaware


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:19 pm    Post subject: Beer jockey Reply with quote

Any more info on the beer jockey?
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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 12:31 am    Post subject: Re: Beer jockey Reply with quote

Campana93 wrote:
Any more info on the beer jockey?


I got the stainless steel cooler and the coils from Amazon. Here are the links.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY1CJMM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AY1CJMM&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=3QQFIREXP55SL3SB

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQAYFC6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00WQAYFC6&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=GWKWAF5GJREWNKYA


I simply placed the coils inside the cooler and figured out where I wanted the tap handles to go. I decided to go with the first handle on the far left so that I could keep the bottle cap opener in the same place on the right. Drilled shank holes in the cooler with a 7/8" bi-metal bit. Instructions come with the coils that made it quite easy.

My wife found some little chalkboards to hang on the faucets for labeling the beers. They can get a little foam/ beer splash, so I will probably get the chalkboard tap handles at some point (my LHBS was out at the time). I also mounted a three gas manifold to the back that wasn't in the original pictures, and put a quick disconnect on it to make switching my CO2 tank back to the brewery easy. The beer lines aren't attached to the SS nipples at the top of the cooler in these pictures. I had problems with the ball lock beverage-out connectors being wobbly on my kegs. They were leaking beer and pressure so I exchanged them. Just haven't hooked them back up to beer line.

I would also like to mount a drip tray under the cooler, so peoples feet and shoes don't get splashed with beer and inevitable drips. I found one on micromatic's site that I like. I think it would be easy enough to either screw, velcro, or glue it to the underside of the cooler (I am a little wary of putting a bunch of holes in the bottom of it), but I have't really looked into it yet. I can update after I get around to doing it.

http://www.micromatic.com/jockey-box-drip-trays/24-inch-jockey-box-drip-tray-with-drain-dp-j-24?affId=70238

I think that's about it. Good luck!



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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may recall I had asked about how to increase speed in the whirlpool. I did do some experiments, and found out that running the pumps in series does help with output speed.

I filled the whirlpool with 12 gallons of water, and placed a wine cork in it. I then ran the pump for 3 minutes to get the water up to speed, and then counted the revolutions per minute of the cork for 3 minutes. I recorded the RPM's twice (three minutes each).

Then I hooked up the pumps in series and ran the same test the same way, again twice. I placed my data somewhere that I wouldn't forget where it was...and of course now I can't find it. Rolling Eyes However, I recall that when I ran one pump by itself the cork lazily made its way around the WP. When I ran it in series, I fairly often had to knock the cork off the wall of the WP because it was being thrown to the outside at a faster rate (centrifugal force) and would slow down because of the increased contact/ friction with the wall. The RPM of the cork in the "series" test was roughly about 1.5X faster.

I also found these websites that talk more about overcoming head pressure, but seem to confirm my data on overcoming friction loss.

http://blog.craneengineering.net/operating-centrifugal-pumps-in-series-or-parallel

http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/18-html/18-1.htm

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pumps-parallel-serial-d_636.html

I plan on scoring the bottom of the WP to increase friction at the bottom of the pot. That will help even further with trub pile formation. Ideally the 90 degree elbow wouldn't be there (flow resistance), and would instead be a hole that is flush with the WP wall. However, I wanted to get as much off the bottom as possible. I may modify this design as I play with it a little more, but I'm pretty happy with how it has been working.

EDIT: I bought a third (dedicated WP) pump and installed a larger impeller in it. Works great. Less headache. See also the No-move hose link on the first post of this thread.



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Last edited by McGruber on Mon Jan 22, 2018 4:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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HopSteady



Joined: 09 Jan 2016
Posts: 36



PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried 2 pumps in parallel instead of in series? This should add flow rate instead of head.



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McGruber



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 231
Location: Idaho


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HopSteady wrote:
Have you tried 2 pumps in parallel instead of in series? This should add flow rate instead of head.

I have not. I was happy with the increased output with them in series, and I don't think it's worth the added cost of extra hardware to form all the junctions. If I was really worried about it and used the current pump size, it might make sense to use larger diameter ID hoses to handle the flow rate. Using the hoses I am now and increasing resistance (friction loss) by adding more T's and 90's I don't think will help much. I'm more interested in decreasing the resistance in the whirlpool by making the intake and outputs flush with the inside wall. Even that though is fine tuning as I'm pretty happy with the trub pile as it is.
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HopSteady



Joined: 09 Jan 2016
Posts: 36



PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you using a March 809 or equivalent? I was thinking up going one model up purely for whirpool reasons.

I am also considering having a tangential inlet welded onto the blichmanns. Would be great if someone offered these in weldless format:

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Tiny



Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 21
Location: Newaygo, MI

Drinking: Simcoe IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

McGruber, your setup is really nice. My wife loves your light fixture. I am try to build one for her new bathroom, but figuring out what the name of that electrical elbow is proving to be tough. Has anyone figured it out by chance?
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bobby4



Joined: 30 Oct 2014
Posts: 7



PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Incredibly impressive build, well done!
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