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Brewery build thread
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10558
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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You may certainly use components / wiring rated for higher current draw than expected. That would be fine.

Kal

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 6:40 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Thanks. Hope to have it mounted on the stand and plugged in in a couple of weeks.
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 12:59 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Quick question about Greenlee punches and 1/2" NPT fittings. I have the Greenlee 1/2" (7/8" hole) conduit punch that I used for punching the holes into the door of my panel. Can I use this same punch to make the holes in my kettle for the 1/2" fittings? Or do I need to buy the Greenlee 13/16" punch? Does 1/16" between the punches really matter? Thanks
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Yo_Pauly



Joined: 30 Nov 2014
Posts: 40
Location: New Richmond, WI


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you want a snug fit so the fitting doesn't move around when you tighten it. 1/16 inch on a side equates to an 1/8 inch gap on one side as the fitting moves off center. That is about the width of the o-ring, and it's more than likely going to cause you some major grief! Do yourself a favor and get the proper punch.
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ChukInaTruk



Joined: 23 Jan 2014
Posts: 63
Location: Chicago, IL West burbs


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a Q.max punch. They are made in England. Takes about three weeks through Amazon. Greenlee is better quality, but I had no problem with the qmax, and they are a quarter of the price of the greenlee's. They are fine for the job. Google qmax punch. Seems silly to pay 60-70 a punch for one job.

Chuck

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 7:04 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Just placed an order for Q Max 13/16 and 1 1/4 punches (just under $50). I own Greenlee tools and they are quality but after pricing the two punches on Amazon at $180 for the pair I just cannot justify that price for punching a few holes (if I was doing this for a living it would be different). Thanks for the info.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10558
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Link to Qmax punches at Amazon.com that helps support our forum at no additional cost to you:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=q.max%20punch&linkCode=ur2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&url=search-alias%3Dtools&linkId=WQIKWFI356RNC635

Thank you!

Kal

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ChukInaTruk



Joined: 23 Jan 2014
Posts: 63
Location: Chicago, IL West burbs


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad they saved you some money. I would suggest a small file kit too. I have one green lee punch and even with that I had a little sharp edge to clean up after I punched the kettle. They sell a small kit at Home Depot.

Good luck

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:45 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

I found the same thing with my Greenlee punch when I was punching holes in the panel door. I just used a Dremel to clean it up. Have a couple of questions to ask. Since I built my panel for 50 amp but currently only have 30 amp available I was considering going ahead and punching the kettle(s) and installing two 2500 watt elements instead of a single 5500 watt element. This way I only have to change out the elements when I go to 50 amp. Since this is the way that a household hot water heater works I do not see any problem with this. Is there anything that I am overlooking here? Second question is about conduit capacity. From my reference manuals it shows that 1/2" liquid tight conduit can carry six #10 wires. I will be pulling four hot and two ground wires from my panel to my outlets through liquid tight conduit. Has there been any change to the code on this? My manuals are fairly old. Thanks
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10558
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 1:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Nimbus3000 wrote:
Since I built my panel for 50 amp but currently only have 30 amp available I was considering going ahead and punching the kettle(s) and installing two 2500 watt elements instead of a single 5500 watt element. This way I only have to change out the elements when I go to 50 amp. Since this is the way that a household hot water heater works I do not see any problem with this. Is there anything that I am overlooking here?

You want to eventually run two 5500W elements? Just install and use one now, then add a second later.

Kal

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 6:45 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Question about using liquid cooling inside of a fermentation chamber. I am in the final stages of building a super insulated version of the Son Of Fermentation chamber. I will be installing quick connects inside of the chamber for connecting cooling coils. Has anyone used household tap water for cooling (solenoid valve connected to a temp control). Our tap water runs at 64 degrees even after a week or more of 90 to 100 degree weather (never have seen water get any warmer). Would it use an exorbitant amount of water to control fermentation temps by running tap water through a cooling coil and then out to the fish pond or garden? The chamber will also have temp controlled air to assist with the fermentation temperature. My thought was that the water would be mostly for backup if temps exceeded what the air circulating over the ice could handle. Thanks.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10558
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 1:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Nimbus3000 wrote:
Has anyone used household tap water for cooling (solenoid valve connected to a temp control). Our tap water runs at 64 degrees ...

If you're only interested in fermenting in the mid to high 60's then it may work, but I think it would use an enormous amount of water. Most cooling systems are closed looped so that they can go colder so that you can ferment lagers, or even some ales. Only being able to ferment at temperatures higher than 64F would severely limit what I could brew.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:15 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Updated picture of my nearly complete panel. After wiring the SSR's I did notice that it looks a bit confusing, what looks like a second red wire from the relay to the SSR is actually a black #6 with red shrink tubing on each end. My plan was to use different color shrink tube for each of the wires (one is black with yellow ends, black with blue ends, solid black and black with red ends). in retrospect I should have used something other than red. Still working on the panel stand.


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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 8:43 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

I purchased the pre-assembled RTD connectors with XLR panel mounts from Auber. It looks like I may need to extend the wires in order to make them work. What is the correct way to extend the RTD wires (if this can be done)? Thanks
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question about Greenlee / Q Max punches. Does anyone know what the maximum aluminum kettle wall thickness is that these punches can go through? My Q Max punches state 1.625 mm mild steel but I can find no reference to aluminum thickness. Thanks
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Vesteroid



Joined: 02 Sep 2015
Posts: 57



PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do t know for sure but typically it's one gauge heavier for aluminum than steel. For instance if a break is rated for 16 gauge steel, it's often rated for 14 gauge aluminum (which means heavier aluminum)

In general I would not worry about punching almost any pot with the punches for the amount we need to do for this project.
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Yo_Pauly



Joined: 30 Nov 2014
Posts: 40
Location: New Richmond, WI


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From a Greenlee manual I have for a D-sub (RS232) panel punch, it indicates a capacity of 22 through 16 gauge mild steel (0.8 mm - 1.5 mm) & 1/8" (3.2 mm) aluminum. Not the same punch of course, but in line with comments of previous poster.
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Currently looking at three different kettles. One is the standard 1.5 mm stainless and the other two are 4.7 mm and 6 mm aluminum. Any suggestions? Hate to buy a kettle and not be able to punch holes in it.
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Kazumichan



Joined: 07 May 2014
Posts: 178
Location: Cincinnati Ohio area

Working on: Belgium golden, Dubbel, and imperial red


PostLink    Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally would stay away from any aluminum pot. There is indicators that aluminum can be bad for your health.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10558
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kazumichan wrote:
There is indicators that aluminum can be bad for your health.

While I wouldn't choose aluminum either, the idea that it's bad for your health seems to have been proven as incorrect.

The facts: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=49449

Kal

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Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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