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Brewery build thread
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Kazumichan



Joined: 07 May 2014
Posts: 178
Location: Cincinnati Ohio area

Working on: Belgium golden, Dubbel, and imperial red


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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I used something similar to those when I built mine. Only thing that you might do is put some shrink wrap on them after you install them to help insulate them.
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huaco



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1508
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^^^^^
Good advice there...
You will need to make certain to tighten the clamping screw tight, but not so tight you are shearing strands of the cable.
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:33 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback. I decided to just go with the 30 amp system for now. If I decide to go with 50 amp later all of the components exceed 50 amps so it will just be a reconfigure components and a bit of new wire routing. I plan on installing the receptacles into electrical boxes (talking about large pull boxes-8"X 8"X 6") that will be connected to the control panel through conduit run into the gland plate rather than mounting them in the panel. That way if I decide to change to a 50 amp system all I have to do is buy a new face plate for the power in box. In reality I will probably never brew 30 gallons of beer but the cost difference for the larger capacity components was small enough to make it worth doing.

30 amp system will also allow me to use a generator extension cord to run from my dryer plug to the control panel since there is not enough room where the dryer is to set up a brewing area. Once the remodel gets going I can have a dedicated 30 amp line run.



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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:56 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

PID's installed in the control panel. Picture is a bit fuzzy, sorry about that. May be the last major work I do for awhile, just spent 3 times my brewery budget on spinal surgery for my dog. Darn dog's like family so what else can you do.


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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 7:08 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Couple of quick questions about wiring in the 3 way element selector switch. This picture is of the two NO switch blocks. I noticed that the number coding on the switch blocks do not match to what is shown in the picture on the web page. Is it critical that the wiring be matched to the number or are the numbers just a reference and the wires just need to be connected to the correct terminal on the block? This is also the case when I attach the two NC blocks onto the two NO blocks.

Thanks



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Tungsten



Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 316
Location: Buffalo, NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope - it's not critical at all. It doesn't matter.

In fact I think Kal said he was going to go back and photoshop all those numbers out, but I guess he just hasn't gotten to that yet.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10557
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct. Thanks for the reminder!

Kal

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 7:31 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Question 1 about wiring timer alarms;

Do the alarms have an independent hot coming in from the 110 v bus and then a jumper between PID's rather than jumping from terminal 9 to terminal 13 (just like there is a jumper on terminal 9 between PID's)? My interpretation seems correct since I already have two connectors on terminal 9 where jumping between PID's with a hot and adding a third to jump between terminal 9 and terminal 13 does not look like it will fit. Just need to make sure since I have only wired single PID controllers and I just jumped between 9 and 13.

Question 2;

I have the hot feed starting with the timer and jumped between the timer and the HLT PID, HLT PID jumped to the MT PID, MT PID jumped to the boil PID. Could I jump from terminal 9 of the boil PID to terminal 13 of the boil PID and then jump to 13 on the MT, 13 on the MT to 13 on the HLT, 13 on the HLT to terminal 8 on the JSL-73B?

Attached is a quick sketch of how I would like to wire these components.

Thanks for any feedback



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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 6:24 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Brewery is proceeding (at a much slower pace after the veterinary neurosurgeon fixed my dogs spine). Electrician has the new 30 amp plug installed on the wall. Am going to end up buying a generator extension cord to run from the plug to the panel. Attached a picture of the final configuration of the back plane. The two 30 amp breakers without wiring are for future upgrade to 50 amp. The four black wires to the left of the breakers are the hot feeds to the pump/aux. sockets.


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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 6:26 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Another picture of the back side of the door


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rcrabb22



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 462
Location: Illinois


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
May be the last major work I do for awhile, just spent 3 times my brewery budget on spinal surgery for my dog. Darn dog's like family so what else can you do.


Been there done that 2 years in a row. One our pups escaped from our fenced backyard and was hit by a car. She recovered after $6K of surgical care. The next summer our other pup blew out her left rear stifle (knee in human speak) running in our backyard and stepping on an exposed tree root. $2.5K more of surgical care. Like you said, they are family and the alternative solution out of the question.
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foomench



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 710
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been there and done that as well. I can't say two years in a row (as well as I can recall), but one of our dogs had nine lives. Well, after treatment for various conditions, TPLO surgery, surgery for lung cancer ...

That layout with the DIN rails looks really nice.

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 13, 2015 5:19 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

I am getting ready to send a water sample to Ward Labs and am not sure which test to request. I would assume the W5A Brewers Test would be the one but we know what happens when one assumes something. Any suggestions on which test to have run? Thanks.
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:23 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Due to the space restrictions where my dryer plug is located one of my options is to use a generator extension cord (30 amp 7500 watt) to provide power to my control panel. I have heard that there is the potential for long extension cords to cause the GFCI to trip. Does anyone have any knowledge of what a "safe" length would be? I plan on keeping the distance to 25' or less. The other option would be "sticking" the cord out the window onto the deck (with a roof over it) to plug into. Thanks.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10557
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

25' is pretty short. I wouldn't worry about it.

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 6:07 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Getting ready to purchase kettles and need some feedback on stock pots. Budget requires that I purchase aluminum pots. I am looking at two different kettle sizes, 80 quart 4 mm thick wall and 160 quart 6 mm thick wall. The 160 is about double the 80 in cost. I plan on upgrading from 30 to 50 amp in the future. At this time I plan on brewing 5 or 10 gallon batches. One of the options I am looking at is to purchase a 80 quart for the boil and the 160 quart as the HLT (plan on using a cooler as a mash tun for now). I would like to purchase two 160 quart pots but by my calculations that would be too large of a boil kettle for 5 gallon batches. Can anyone suggest a brand of stock pot that has proven to be of quality construction? Thanks.
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huhwha



Joined: 10 May 2013
Posts: 71



PostLink    Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went with ProFlow Dynamics for my HLT and BK when they were having their 20% off sale. I went with the 15 gal heavy duty boil kettle kits. Mind you, I don't have them in service yet, but they seem fine. They also have some economy models if the budget is tight.

Just for reference, I went with the Blichmann for the MLT, mostly for the design of the false bottom.
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atouk78



Joined: 04 May 2015
Posts: 19
Location: Northern NJ


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure how limited your budget is, but there are a lot of "economy" SS options out there and you should have no trouble finding a 10 gallon or smaller SS kettle for under $100. Won't be super heavy duty and you'll be limited to 5 gal batches, but I think you would be much happier with it compared to aluminum over the long run. Also, another way to manage the budget is to start off with a cooler for the HLT as well (that's what I am doing). You lose the HERMS function, but you can always upgrade later on and focus your cash on building exactly what you want for the biol kettle.
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foomench



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 710
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can use a cooler for an HLT and still do HERMS. I did this for a while, with a heating element installed in the cooler and a coil. The heating element was 120V. Sealing the heating element was a pain, but possible with food grade silicone sealant. You might be able to do it just with the right o-rings, washers, and lock nut. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't install the heating element through the cooler wall, but just drop in a bucket heater. The HLT is on the left in this photo. The heating element was installed through the bottom, and you can see the two outlets on the right side which are for the HERMS coil.

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 2:16 am    Post subject: Brewery Build Thread Reply with quote

Getting ready to install the sockets into my control panel stand and have a question about the power in. Since I currently only have a 30 amp power source but my panel is designed for 50 amp is there any reason (other than being somewhat non-standard) that I could not use the 50 amp power in plug/socket combination to feed 30 amps to the panel (10/4 wire). I will be building my own power in cord so it would have the correct 30 amp plug on the wall receptacle side (no way to plug into a 50 amp socket). Doing this would save me having to rewire some parts of the system later as it would be already wired with # 6 and the correct receptacles. I would only have to change out my power in cord later with a 50 amp cable (6/4 wire). Thanks for any feedback.
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