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Brewery build thread
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 4:58 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote


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Taking the suggestion and decided to put my ramblings into a single thread as I work on my brewery build. The attached picture is the control panel with the front panel holes punched and painted. Heat sink is not yet installed.



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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 5:11 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Next picture, control panel with indicator lights and switches installed. The bezels around the PID openings and the ABS plastic cover on the back side of the door were used to fix the measured 3 times, cut once and still cut the holes 3 mm to large. Should have my back panel completed this weekend and will post a picture when finished. The hole with the plug in it is in case I want to use the panel to run two kettles at once in the future ( will be able to replace the three way switch with a two way and add another two way into the empty hole). Added an on/off switch under the audible alarm to be able to silence the alarm if I want to.


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Last edited by Nimbus3000 on Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:54 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 5:54 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

First step in converting garage into brewery and home theater is to replace garage door. Picture is during frame in.


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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 5:56 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

And after garage door is removed and windows installed.


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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 7:53 am    Post subject: Back Plane Complete Reply with quote

Attached is a picture of the back plane for my control panel. Built to run 50 amp but will most likely run 30 amp from dryer plug until I get my garage fully remodeled and have a 50 amp line installed. Using 30 amp the plan is to only bring wiring out of two of the four breakers.


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Last edited by Nimbus3000 on Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like it's coming along!

A hint: I suggest lowering the resolution of your images so that people can view them correctly and inline instead of having to download them. The last one (for example) at 3072x2304 resolution is absolutely massive and won't fit on 99% of screens. You're likely uploading photos directly from your camera.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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ParadiseBrew



Joined: 09 Dec 2014
Posts: 83
Location: paradise, ca


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i like your design and clean wiring... but... you will only be able to run one kettle at a time with this setup. with 50amp you could run one element in the BK and one in the HLT or HLT and RIMS.... What size kettles are you going to use? The reason i ask is that one 5500w element in a 20BK will be more then enough.
PB
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Tungsten



Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 316
Location: Buffalo, NY


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ParadiseBrew wrote:
i like your design and clean wiring... but... you will only be able to run one kettle at a time with this setup. with 50amp you could run one element in the BK and one in the HLT or HLT and RIMS.... What size kettles are you going to use? The reason i ask is that one 5500w element in a 20BK will be more then enough.
PB


Oh, good catch. It IS a 50 amp setup but I thought he was going for a 30+ gallon setup, but obviously his switches indicate otherwise. For back-to-back, it looks like there are twice as many breakers as needed which makes a lot of the wiring between the contactors and the breakers redundant (and some of the 6 AWG before the contactors as well).
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Back Plane Complete Reply with quote

What I did was try to follow the wiring for the 30+ gallon 50 amp setup (two elements per kettle, one kettle on at a time) except using DIN components and breakers instead of fuses. At this time I only have the ability to run a 30 amp setup until I finish my remodel at which time I will have the 50 amp capability. My plan is to only wire in two of the breakers (one for the HLT and one for the BK) and then wire in the other two when I get the 50 amp wiring and add the second element in each kettle.

The element select switch is a three way switch. The plugged hole under the element indicator light on the left is so that if I want to go to a back to back in the future I can do it by just changing the three way element select switch to a two way and adding a two way switch into the plugged hole.

Is there something that I did wrong with my wiring for the 30+ setup?

Went back and changed the resolution on my pictures so they will fit on the screen. New to posting on forums so still in a learning mode.
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Tungsten



Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 316
Location: Buffalo, NY


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 5:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Back Plane Complete Reply with quote

Nimbus3000 wrote:
What I did was try to follow the wiring for the 30+ gallon 50 amp setup (two elements per kettle, one kettle on at a time) except using DIN components and breakers instead of fuses. At this time I only have the ability to run a 30 amp setup until I finish my remodel at which time I will have the 50 amp capability. My plan is to only wire in two of the breakers (one for the HLT and one for the BK) and then wire in the other two when I get the 50 amp wiring and add the second element in each kettle.

The element select switch is a three way switch. The plugged hole under the element indicator light on the left is so that if I want to go to a back to back in the future I can do it by just changing the three way element select switch to a two way and adding a two way switch into the plugged hole.

Is there something that I did wrong with my wiring for the 30+ setup?


Ah, I see. They all looked like 2-way switches, so I didn't understand how the switches worked. In that case I think it looks good!
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Back Plane Complete Reply with quote

Thanks. I was just setting here looking at the panel on the workbench tying to figure out if I did something wrong.
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 5:35 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

In progress picture of the back plane of the controller. Still have some wiring to finish including wiring in the SSR's.


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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 5:38 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Another progress picture of the back side of the door. Wiring did not come out nearly as "neat" as I had planned. Looking at trying to clean it up a bit.


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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 6:26 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

As I am testing the wiring on my control panel I found that all of my tests have returned 0 Ohms. However, when I test the 3 way switch in the off position the number returned was 12.5 Ohms +/- across all of the terminals. I am not that savvy on whether this is correct or not. Is this a "normal" number or is there a problem. Thanks
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 2:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Nimbus3000 wrote:
As I am testing the wiring on my control panel I found that all of my tests have returned 0 Ohms.

What exactly are you testing for in all these cases? What points? We need exact info.

Kal

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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 3:20 pm    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

What I was doing was testing to make sure that I had all of the wiring on the correct terminals. I was using the resistance mode on the multimeter and placing the probes on a particular terminal and the other probe on the terminal that the wire goes to and looking for a 0 reading on the meter. I was also checking the switches by placing the probes on the switch terminals and measuring the resistance across the terminals in both open and closed position. All of the wiring checked out with a 0 reading. All of the two way switches worked like I expected, with the switch in the open position I had no reading on the meter but with the switch closed position I had a 0 reading. However, when I did this with the three way switch in the open position I found that there was a 12.5 +/- ohm reading on everything connected to this switch.

Retested this morning and could not reproduce the issue. Guess I should not be working late at night on projects like this. I apologize for posting this before I did a retest. Thanks
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 7:58 pm    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Can anyone provide me with a source or type of terminal to connect a 6 AWG wire to an SSR? The only thing that I can find locally are large non-insulated rings made for a 3/8" stud attachment.
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 4:17 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

The saga continues. The 50 amp system I was going to build ran into technical issues with my old house. May rewire the box to a single 30 amp system. I really doubt that I would ever need to brew 30 gallons of beer anyway. At least all of the components are rated over 50 amps just in case.

Last edited by Nimbus3000 on Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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hopster54



Joined: 11 May 2014
Posts: 189
Location: Vancouver, Canada


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 2:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Nimbus3000 wrote:
Can anyone provide me with a source or type of terminal to connect a 6 AWG wire to an SSR? The only thing that I can find locally are large non-insulated rings made for a 3/8" stud attachment.



I got my 6awg crimp lugs at a electrical wholesaler. i paid $1.23 each,they are square ended ring terminals and need to be crimped with a proper lug crimping tool,i was fortunate enough to have a good friend loan me a crimper.

Good luck,your build is coming along nicely. Mug
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Nimbus3000



Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 119
Location: Western Washington State


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 2:54 am    Post subject: Brewery build thread Reply with quote

Can anyone see a reason that these terminals would not work to attach 6 AWG wire to an ssr? These are a perfect fit into the square keeper on the ssr.


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