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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:27 pm Post subject: Super Simple BK Controller |
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So in response to rmessenger82's questions on going electic ( http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=307325#307325 ) I thought it might be fun to put together a very basic boil kettle controllerfor him based on the SSVR that Auber Instruments has available on their site.
All of the components shown in the pictures below were sourced from Amazon and Auber Instruments, except for the 12/3 SJOOW cord that came from Home Depot. The total cost came in around $150. This box is setup for running on a 240V-only 20A circuit per rmessenger82's setup at his home. He's going to use 3500W elements with the kits he purchased from theelectricbrewery.com, so his element cords will have L6-30 plugs, hence the matching L6-30 receptacle on the box. The heatsink is grounded, along with the case of the rheostat. (I didn't have any green wire!!!)
The blue LED is a power on indicator. The yellow LED was included with hopes to be an indicator of the power level out, but I found that there's very little difference in brightness between the minimum voltage out (~ 70V AC) and the max 240V. So if I did it all over again I would eliminate that LED, put the blue LED in place of the rheostat, and move the rheostat towards the heatsink centered in that little recessed area on the top of the box.
A 240V 3500W element has a resistance of about 16.46 ohms, so at the 70V min output the power would be ~300W (70V * 70V / 16.46-ohm). So the controller has a more than adequate low power setting.
The power switch and contactor are there to make sure won't hot plug a heating element.
On the "trivia" front a friend of mine that opened a distillery here in town this year purchased his first still and controller from Hillbilly Stills. The controller was part of the package but it cost $1500 !!! Sure it has a cool analog panel ammeter to show how much current the controlled element is sinking, and it has a switch to turn on a second element full power (turbo mode I believe they call it), but that $1500 could be replicated for about $300 for a DIYer.
Just for reference here are the components sourced from Amazon and Auber (links now set for Kal's site reference):
Controller box - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNUBMU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00MWNUBMU&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=NRZNZXYG57NPXQT7
Outlet - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00002NAT9&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=YE2YKIVEOSCKPHWR
Cord grip - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MW6F7S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000MW6F7S&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=HHDFTTG37MRFPIYK
SSVR & rheostat - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=332
Heatsink - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=244
Contactor - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=403
Switch - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=236
LED Indicators - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_33&products_id=248
Cheers!
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Inside view of SSVR and rheostat, plus LEDs and switch |
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Inside view of power contactor and outlet |
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Top view of controller case |
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Outlet for heating element |
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huaco
Joined: 05 Apr 2012 Posts: 1506 Location: Burleson Texas
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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Very nice! Thanks for the write-up! I'm planning on building one or even two of these for a buddy to use on his old brew stand to use as a keg/equipment cleaning station.
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Craig! FYI that enclosure/case is very much like a Pelican case if you're familiar with those. It was a little tight to work in but at $24 it was a good deal I think. It is a completely waterproof enclosure, and in fact it even has a vacuum/pressure relief valve in the form of a know under the handle so that you can open the darn thing if you travel from low to high altitudes with it. Not that it's retained that level of seal after the modifications.
I should have noted that the heatsink has a bead of silicone caulk that was run around the opening for the SSVR prior to installation, and the outlet was sealed in a similar manner.
-Kevin
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huaco
Joined: 05 Apr 2012 Posts: 1506 Location: Burleson Texas
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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I plan on using a PVC junction box, say, in the 12x12 range. I may in fact use 2 of these circuits for 2 elements running independent of each other.
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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huaco wrote: | I plan on using a PVC junction box, say, in the 12x12 range. I may in fact use 2 of these circuits for 2 elements running independent of each other. |
Excellent idea - wish I'd have thought about that! Home Depot has the 12x12x6 Cantex boxes for $33.60.
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foomench
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 704 Location: Longmont, CO
Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad
Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel
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rmessenger
Joined: 22 Oct 2014 Posts: 14
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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A quick update. I've finally found the time to brew with the controller that Kevin built. It works great!
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juniorsav
Joined: 12 Jun 2015 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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Kevin, I would love to build one of these for my HLT using 120V and a 1500 watt element. Would the wiring be much different? I am a novice at the electric stuff. Thanks!!!!
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:43 am Post subject: |
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juniorsav wrote: | Kevin, I would love to build one of these for my HLT using 120V and a 1500 watt element. Would the wiring be much different? I am a novice at the electric stuff. Thanks!!!! |
Well it's 3:39 in the morning so I'm a bit foggy at the moment, , but just a quick glance at the wiring in the photos and working from memory only the wiring should be exactly the same as shown for a 120V version. If you do want to build one let me know and I'll take some more time when I'm fully awake and double check my wiring diagram that's in my "archives"...
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juniorsav
Joined: 12 Jun 2015 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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YES! I do want to build one. Any assistance that will reduce the chances of me burning my house down would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!
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juniorsav
Joined: 12 Jun 2015 Posts: 4
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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Yes that should do the trick, but you also need a 120V LED indicator for power (if you want to include it).
Here's a 120V schematic. Ground connections aren't shown but you can follow the comments for the 240V version.
Have fun!
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juniorsav
Joined: 12 Jun 2015 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you!!!!!
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foomench
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 704 Location: Longmont, CO
Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad
Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel
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Link Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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For 120V, you could skip the contactor and just get a switch rated for the amps. I don't know if Auber has nice switches rated high enough, but Grainger has a bunch of toggles for under $10. This means that all of the power going to the heating element would be going through the switch.
_________________ Brewery equipment photos (et al) here: https://picasaweb.google.com/114861423235799103704
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eddiehaskel
Joined: 26 Mar 2014 Posts: 2
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Link Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not sure if this is dead or not but giving it a try. Kevin59 do you have a schematic for your build. Pics are great but a few of the views are not 100% clear. I'm not an electrician but do know a couple that are willing to help with the build. I've been look around for a while and this is exactly the build I've been looking for.
TIA
Doug
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 10:25 pm Post subject: |
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eddiehaskel wrote: | I'm not sure if this is dead or not but giving it a try. Kevin59 do you have a schematic for your build. Pics are great but a few of the views are not 100% clear. I'm not an electrician but do know a couple that are willing to help with the build. I've been look around for a while and this is exactly the build I've been looking for.
TIA
Doug |
Hi Doug, here's what I had on hand. A 240V version would just need a contactor with a 240V coil, and the white/neutral line becomes a hot. And the power LED would be selected accordingly.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'd be happy to help. Cheers! Kevin
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eddiehaskel
Joined: 26 Mar 2014 Posts: 2
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Link Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks a lot! I'm actually going to use a PID instead of the rheostat. But I'm sure its still the same just swapping them out.
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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eddiehaskel wrote: | Thanks a lot! I'm actually going to use a PID instead of the rheostat. But I'm sure its still the same just swapping them out. |
If you're just going to control your boil with this setup, the rheostat setup shown will give you a "smoother" boil at lower power settings. A PID controlled SSR will pulse on and off whereas the setup shown will have the voltage on at all times at reduced amplitude and therefore power.
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bueschen
Joined: 06 Nov 2016 Posts: 3 Location: Maine
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Kevin for a great write up! I am planning to steal your terrific design for my own BK controller.
Would you have been able to swap the 3500W element for a 4500W in your rig?
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David_H
Joined: 13 Nov 2013 Posts: 139 Location: Savannah, GA
Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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FWIW here is another example with a couple of extra features.
This was before the Auber Voltage Power Controller was available so I had to source the Phase Angle Power Controller and Potentiometer separately. This was a bit pricey, but this is a hobby. Just to see if I could, added a switch / contractor pair to switch the input power between 120 and 240 Volt. I did this to add some low power level sensitivity in the control. An ammeter is included for wow factor and to output the power level for process repeatability.
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_________________ David
Kal Clone Controller
20 gallon Spike Brewing 3-Kettle System
SS Brewtech 14 gallon fermenter w/ gycol chiller
4 tap keezer with Nitro Tap
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