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Using BoilerMaker G2 kettles on our setup
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 9:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Blichmann New Kettles Have Heating Element Reply with quote


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BeerMaverick wrote:
Has anyone tried building with these yet?

The G2s? Many have. I've been pictures of them posted on this forum. I may have added some to the testimonials page too.

Quote:
Not sure when Blichmann came out with these (or if they've been addressed already in the forum somewhere), but these kettles appear to have the heating elements already installed (boil coil).

They don't come pre-installed. It's an option you can purchase separately.

Quote:
Can this directly substitute the heating elements and installation procedures described on the electric brewery website? Wondering if it would get in the way of the herms coil.

They can most certainly work if you stick to the right size and heed some of the issues like the HERMS coil getting in the way.
Here's a thread about it:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27318

Here are my thoughts on the boil coil:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=305899#305899

TLDR: I wouldn't use them myself. If I had to build again I'd use the same heating elements I did before.

Kal

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shakenbake



Joined: 11 Jul 2016
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 12:32 am    Post subject: question on replacing the g2 linear valves Reply with quote

I got the G2 kettles and am replacing the linear valves with 2 piece ball valves and had a question. Should I use teflon tape on the NPT fitting (from the existing Blichmann G2 kettle)? It seems like I should put tape on the threads but when I removed the linear ball valve it did not have any tape on it, and it was not part of the instructions on replacing the linear flow valve, so wasn't sure if I there was something that I missed.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tape is not required as the oring makes the seal. Good luck!


Kal

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shakenbake



Joined: 11 Jul 2016
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 2:22 pm    Post subject: question on replacing the g2 linear valves Reply with quote

Hi Kal,

Thanks for the reply, but I am still a little confused. In the replacement instructions the washer and o-ring are added to inside wall of the kettle. We reuse the blichman NPT fitting which goes through the kettle wall and the threads are exposed on the outside of the kettle wall. Then the ball valve directly attaches to those NPT fitting threads. Seems like the o-ring seals the inside kettel wall to the NPT fitting that goes through the kettle. Seems like I should be adding tape to the threads on the outside of the kettle wall that screws directly into the ball valve. I'm a newby trying to learn this stuff, so excuse me if I am not getting something.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tape is not required on the outside (Blichmann doesn't use any on the outside with their stock kettles both G1 and G2), but if you feel it is required there's likely no harm in adding some. Good luck!

Kal

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dward4421



Joined: 21 Jan 2016
Posts: 36



PostLink    Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am in the process of changing out the linear valve with a standard 3 piece ball valve. However, I can't find the recommended o ring that is listed on the website. It s currently unavailable on Amazon. Does any one have an idea of where to find the correct oring? I saw this on great fermentations website. http://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/boilermaker-bulkhead-retainer/blichmann-replacement-parts/?a=ebrew Does this look right?
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Gameface



Joined: 07 Feb 2015
Posts: 120
Location: West Jordan, UT


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dward4421 wrote:
I am in the process of changing out the linear valve with a standard 3 piece ball valve. However, I can't find the recommended o ring that is listed on the website. It s currently unavailable on Amazon. Does any one have an idea of where to find the correct oring? I saw this on great fermentations website. http://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/boilermaker-bulkhead-retainer/blichmann-replacement-parts/?a=ebrew Does this look right?


Probably too late to be of any help to you, but yes, that does look like the part you would need.
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Burjo



Joined: 01 Apr 2016
Posts: 1
Location: Sydney, Australia


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 2:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone else done this and had issues with losing suction when the liquid gets to the fitting on the inside of the kettle?

Mine will drain fine till it hits the top of the nut and then loose suction and stop draining. I'm using a Hop stopper as well but it still happens even with the standard dip tube so that shouldnt be the issue.

I havent put it back to the linear yet to confirm it works then and have ordered another ball valve to be ready for that happening but wanted to put it out here to check if anyone else had issues?

Cheers,
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mike0416



Joined: 03 Jan 2017
Posts: 62



PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Kal,

I'm going to order the 20 Gal G2s (using your affiliate links of course!). There seems to be a lot you can order with the G2, including some custom cutouts. Would you recommend purchasing any of these add-ons?

Thanks,
Mike
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mike,

No, as the holes are not in the right places or the right sizes in most cases. Good luck and thanks for supporting our site by using our links - itís appreciated!

Kal

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Calenk



Joined: 17 Jan 2020
Posts: 6



PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey sorry to boot up an old thread.

Do you not need Teflon tape between the bulkhead fitting and the valve with this setup?

Thanks
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Calenk wrote:
Hey sorry to boot up an old thread.

Do you not need Teflon tape between the bulkhead fitting and the valve with this setup?

Thanks

By bulkhead fitting do you mean the NPT Fitting with integrated nut (part D) in the picture below?:



Tape is not required between parts A and D. Tape (or dope) should be used when the threads of a pipe are being used to create the seal. In this case the silicone o-ring (part C) creates the seal so tape is not required.

As an FYI, whenever tape is to be used I always have it in my instructions (both in the pictures, the text, and the parts list) so if you don't see it mentioned it's not required.

Cheers!

Kal

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Calenk



Joined: 17 Jan 2020
Posts: 6



PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Calenk wrote:
Hey sorry to boot up an old thread.

Do you not need Teflon tape between the bulkhead fitting and the valve with this setup?

Thanks

By bulkhead fitting do you mean the NPT Fitting with integrated nut (part D) in the picture below?:



Tape is not required between parts A and D. Tape (or dope) should be used when the threads of a pipe are being used to create the seal. In this case the silicone o-ring (part C) creates the seal so tape is not required.

As an FYI, whenever tape is to be used I always have it in my instructions (both in the pictures, the text, and the parts list) so if you don't see it mentioned it's not required.

Cheers!

Kal


OK so is it just because of the fact that the valve is tight against the kettle that it's not needed? I still don't see how there is no leaking between the threads and the valve. The oring only provides a seal between the kettle and the bulkhead.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, good point! There is a seal between threads of the pipes between parts A and D (valve and bulkhead fitting) so use tape if you like, but oddly enough Blichmann doesn't use tape on their stock kettles between these parts. I never have myself and haven't had a leak in the ~10 years I've been using them. Let me think about this some more...

EDIT: Because the seal is on the inside of the kettle (o-ring seal between the bulkhead and the kettle wall) tape should be used. Blichmann doesn't use tape because they actually use the o-ring and washer on the *outside* which forms a seal between the ball valve and the kettle wall, so no tape is required. I've now updated the instructions to recommend using teflon tape. Thanks for pointing this out!

Kal

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Calenk



Joined: 17 Jan 2020
Posts: 6



PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks
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makumazahn



Joined: 18 Jun 2019
Posts: 3
Location: Western Montana


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe a dumb question, but as I'm looking into building my brewery in the next few months, I see that Blichmann now offers two valve options: the proprietary linear flow, or a tri-clamp butterfly valve. I'm thinking the butterfly version will work just fine (though I don't see pictures on their website), but is there a reason to prefer a ball valve?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

makumazahn wrote:
Maybe a dumb question, but as I'm looking into building my brewery in the next few months, I see that Blichmann now offers two valve options: the proprietary linear flow, or a tri-clamp butterfly valve. I'm thinking the butterfly version will work just fine (though I don't see pictures on their website), but is there a reason to prefer a ball valve?

Welcome to the forum!

Tri-clamp (TC) butterfly valves are sanitary in that there are no threads so they are very useful on the cold side (fermentation) of the brewing process. On the hot side (the creation of wort) where everything is boiled anyway they add little value, only extra expense and work. A tri-clamp butterfly valve is normally about 5x more expensive than a standard ball valve. Tri-clamp is harder to use since it requires two hands. You have to put the gasket on, then sometimes hold it while you wrap around the TC clamp. So it's a lot more fiddley, takes longer, requires separate gaskets and clamps, etc. If you go tri-clamp your hoses will also have to be tri-clamp of course which means that you should probably do absolutely everything else on the hot side in tri-clamp too (pumps, chiller, etc). I wouldn't want hoses that have QDs on one end and TC on the other. You'd probably need more hoses if you did that and having pay attention and hunt for the right hose is more work, and again more cost.

Keep in mind that to properly do TC you want zero threads (the whole point of TC). I do see some people buying NPT threaded pumps then screwing on an NPT to TC adapter. This is absolutely pointless as you then have threads (defeating the point of TC) plus all the extra work and cost of having TC as well.

Even if cost was the same, I would not want tri-clamp on the hot side mostly just for the extra work but to each their own. IMHO it's the latest craze by manufacturers to get people to spend more because they look neat and manufacturers tout the extra 'sanitary' nature (which again is completely lost on the hot side of the brewing process).

TC (and butterfly) do have a use however. I use tri-clamp on the cold side (fermentation). That's where the extra hassle / work / cost makes sense to me as you can effectively sanitize TC while threaded fittings (like NPT) cannot be as easily sanitized with the many nooks and crannies for nasties to hide out in. On the hot side (boil kettle/MLT/HLT) it just doesn't make sense to me. For example, you fill the MLT with unsanitary grain. Grain is not sanitary by any stretch of the imagination. The FDA allows a certain amount of bug parts, rodent feces and hair, and so forth. So to completely sanitize a mash tun to only dump this in is pointless. As mentioned above, everything will be boiled anyway.

My recommendation is to go simpler and use the right tool for the right job (use TC where it makes sense, use NPT where it makes sense).

TC butterfly will most certainly work of course but much of my instructions will need to change. On the MLT and HLT output you'll need TC tees as well and need to use TC temperature probes. (We do sell these). Once all is said and done expect a considerable cost increase in building the setup of you want TC everywhere and expect your brew day to take longer / be more fiddley. It will have zero effect the beer.

My 2 cents!

Good luck with your build! Any questions please let me know. You can email me direct at kal@TheElectricBrewery.com.

Cheers!

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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makumazahn



Joined: 18 Jun 2019
Posts: 3
Location: Western Montana


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the unexpectedly thorough answer! I'll let you know if I have any other questions!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10604
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a problem! Didn't want you to go down the rabbit hole of having to make a ton of changes to the build without knowing it just because you chose different valves.

Cheers,

Kal

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johnpbuckles



Joined: 18 May 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Denver, CO

Drinking: Juicy J NEIPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 18, 2020 10:43 pm    Post subject: Blichmann build-out? Reply with quote

I see someone else touched on this a few years back. The Blichmann G2 "custom kettles" have many options, including HERMS, BoilCoil (heating element), whirlpool and extra temperature sensor choices. There are preset locations to choose where to locate these options on the kettle. https://www.blichmannengineering.com/boilermaker-g2.html

Kal, do you think "building out" a three vessel system is possible using Blichmann's "custom" options? For example, to make a HLT, you could choose the BoilCoil, HERMS coil, whirlpool for liquor re-circulation, and the additional thermometer hole for the control panel's temperature probe.

Do you think their BoilCoil is plug-n-play compatible with the control panel? It appears to have a proprietary connection only at the element, but a standard NEMA plug on the power side. I imagine the larger footprint of a coil might interfere with other items. https://www.blichmannengineering.com/boilcoil.html

Obviously this idea would take a lot of the DIY fun out of a build, and add expense. I'm not necessarily planning on doing this - really just curious at this point as I still research everything...

Cheers!
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