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Tiny
Joined: 31 Jan 2015 Posts: 25 Location: Newaygo, MI
Drinking: Simcoe IPA
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Link Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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Shoot, I just received 2 of the 30 gal G1 kettles on Friday. Was going to order the third this week. With huhwha's post, Great Fermentations makes me nervous.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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huhwha
Joined: 10 May 2013 Posts: 70
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Link Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:11 pm Post subject: |
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It's all good. As Kal said, sight glass is the issue. Strange, but I'm not in a big rush, as there is lots of other work to do!
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Tiny
Joined: 31 Jan 2015 Posts: 25 Location: Newaygo, MI
Drinking: Simcoe IPA
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Link Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 1:08 am Post subject: |
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Great!!! Thanks for the update Kal, I'll order my third, right now.
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huhwha
Joined: 10 May 2013 Posts: 70
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Link Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:52 am Post subject: |
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Got my kettle today. See my build thread for details.
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inkedbrewer
Joined: 15 Jan 2015 Posts: 57
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Link Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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wondering if I should increase the hight of the heating element by an inch on both the HLT and the Boil kettle as the G2 kettles have a tapered bottom, not flat, and three inches for the HLT looks very low...any advice would be greatly appreciated
_________________ Good Men Like Good Beer - Hunter S. Thompson
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GrumpyWally
Joined: 06 Mar 2015 Posts: 66 Location: San Diego, CA
Drinking: Schwarzbier, Tripwire Tripel, 2 Czech Dark Lagers, Wee Heavy
Working on: Tripwire Tripel, Roggenbier
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Link Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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One additional note WRT the G2 kettles - mine showed up heat deflector plates that are 7" x 10" rather than the 6" x 10" Kal shows being used as drip shields for the pumps. Not a big deal. However, the new deflector plates also have a slit in them - looks like it's meant to hook onto the kettle stops that are on the Blichmann brew stand. A little bit of duct tape should make it work better.
FWIW, I decided to replace the linear flow valves with standard ball valves that match the rest of the ball vales I added. Saw yesterday on Blichmann's new parts web sites that these things (the linear flow valve) sell for $77 each - you can look for mine on eBay real soon now.
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Irisxiao
Joined: 23 Aug 2015 Posts: 2 Location: NEW ZEALAND
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Link Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, I intend to build one that...but the problem for me is the boilmaker's size,I have a steelless steel work table,the size is about 1800mm long,650mm wide and 600 high......I prefer 20 gallon kettle, but I don't know whether it's enough place for three ....I try to find how wide,long,and high in there web....but I haven't found any detailed imformation about size....does any one knows? or I have to use 10 gallon kettle instead?
Thank you!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Irisxiao
Joined: 23 Aug 2015 Posts: 2 Location: NEW ZEALAND
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Link Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:22 am Post subject: |
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kal wrote: | Irisxiao wrote: | Hi, I intend to build one that...but the problem for me is the boilmaker's size,I have a steelless steel work table,the size is about 1800mm long,650mm wide and 600 high......I prefer 20 gallon kettle, but I don't know whether it's enough place for three ....I try to find how wide,long,and high in there web....but I haven't found any detailed imformation about size....does any one knows? or I have to use 10 gallon kettle instead?
Thank you! |
Blichmann has detailed sizing information on the G2 kettles on their website:
http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/boilermaker
For the 20 gallon G2:
Diameter (in) of sidewall: 17.7"
Diameter (in) base of step: 14.7"
Height (in) Bare Pot Add 2.25" for lid: 20.7"
Kal |
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TheFC3
Joined: 19 Aug 2015 Posts: 4 Location: Florida
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Link Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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I have a question regarding the washer and o-ring. If I'm using a G2 kettle for my mash tun, why can't you use the same o-rings and stainless washers where the return hose elbow and ball valve are located or vice versa? Is the OD of the 1/2" nipple larger than the OD on the NPT fitting with the integrated nut that comes on the G2?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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TheFC3
Joined: 19 Aug 2015 Posts: 4 Location: Florida
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 3:27 am Post subject: |
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Does anyone know the size of the hole in the bottom of the kettle where the valve is attached? Is it 13/16" or a full 3/4"? Thanks.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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GLRRA47
Joined: 20 Dec 2015 Posts: 43 Location: Ohio
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Link Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:01 am Post subject: |
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The new Anvil brand by Blichmann has ball valves. I'll be interesting to see how they are accepted.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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GLRRA47
Joined: 20 Dec 2015 Posts: 43 Location: Ohio
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Link Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:23 am Post subject: |
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Which features are missing in the Anvils? I'm looking at doing an electric brewery in 2016 and in the planning stage now.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:43 am Post subject: |
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GLRRA47 wrote: | Which features are missing in the Anvils? I'm looking at doing an electric brewery in 2016 and in the planning stage now. |
Tons of things. Quickly off the top of my head:
- No sight glass at all. All you get is etched markings inside which means you need to lift the lid every time to check and can't easily check sparge rates (see my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP for tricks/tips on how I do this - none of which is possible on the Anvil kettles). This one alone has me looking elsewhere right off the bat.
- No stepped bottom so they're prone to side wall shunting which means possibly lower efficiency.
- False bottom has a giant handle in the middle making stirring while mashing in more difficult. The false bottom sits REALLY high off the bottom too as it's completely above the dip tube, creating tons of dead space (not everyone will care) which may limit the amount of grain you can use (not everyone will care about this either).
- Dip tube doesn't slide in and out by hand. It's an NPT fitting which may require a wrench to tighten properly. They say "installs quickly without tools" but if there's any leaks you'll lose suction and leave behind a ton of wort so I'd probably want to wrench tighten to be sure. I'd have to see it / play it with in person to confirm however.
- They have a tri-clad bottom which makes them heavy and more expensive with zero benefit on any gas or electric setup (including ours). Only benefits induction.
For a complete list of the benefits of their other Boilermaker kettles, see our kettles article here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/kettles-overview
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Thu Dec 24, 2015 2:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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GLRRA47
Joined: 20 Dec 2015 Posts: 43 Location: Ohio
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 2:16 am Post subject: |
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Good info - I wondered about the false bottom handle too Thanks!
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BeerMaverick
Joined: 18 Feb 2016 Posts: 1
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 6:12 pm Post subject: Blichmann New Kettles Have Heating Element |
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Has anyone tried building with these yet? Not sure when Blichmann came out with these (or if they've been addressed already in the forum somewhere), but these kettles appear to have the heating elements already installed (boil coil). Can this directly substitute the heating elements and installation procedures described on the electric brewery website? Wondering if it would get in the way of the herms coil.
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