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Using BoilerMaker G2 kettles on our setup
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Tiny



Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 21
Location: Newaygo, MI

Drinking: Simcoe IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Shoot, I just received 2 of the 30 gal G1 kettles on Friday. Was going to order the third this week. With huhwha's post, Great Fermentations makes me nervous.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
huhwha wrote:
I've had an order in with great fermentations since March 23. No update yet, other than they have already charged me.

That's nearly 3 weeks. Have you contacted them?


Hope you don't mind but I followed up with the owner for you on this. Blichmann is waiting on sight glass pieces for the 15 gal kettles. That's the reason for the delay. They will be following up with you tomorrow to make sure you're in the loop.

For what it's worth, I'm also told that supply is extremely limited on the remaining G1 kettles - especially on the 30 gals (they only have 7 left). So if anyone's interested, I'd suggest purchasing sooner rather than later:

http://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/blichmann-boilermaker-sd/blichmann-boilermaker-brew-pots?a=ebrew

Kal

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huhwha



Joined: 10 May 2013
Posts: 71



PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's all good. As Kal said, sight glass is the issue. Strange, but I'm not in a big rush, as there is lots of other work to do!
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Tiny



Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 21
Location: Newaygo, MI

Drinking: Simcoe IPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great!!! Thanks for the update Kal, I'll order my third, right now.
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huhwha



Joined: 10 May 2013
Posts: 71



PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my kettle today. See my build thread for details.
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inkedbrewer



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 57



PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wondering if I should increase the hight of the heating element by an inch on both the HLT and the Boil kettle as the G2 kettles have a tapered bottom, not flat, and three inches for the HLT looks very low...any advice would be greatly appreciated
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GrumpyWally



Joined: 06 Mar 2015
Posts: 56
Location: San Diego, CA

Drinking: California Common, Schwarzbier, Roggenbier, Tripwire Tripel

Working on: Dubbel, Brown Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One additional note WRT the G2 kettles - mine showed up heat deflector plates that are 7" x 10" rather than the 6" x 10" Kal shows being used as drip shields for the pumps. Not a big deal. However, the new deflector plates also have a slit in them - looks like it's meant to hook onto the kettle stops that are on the Blichmann brew stand. A little bit of duct tape should make it work better.

FWIW, I decided to replace the linear flow valves with standard ball valves that match the rest of the ball vales I added. Saw yesterday on Blichmann's new parts web sites that these things (the linear flow valve) sell for $77 each - you can look for mine on eBay real soon now.
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Irisxiao



Joined: 23 Aug 2015
Posts: 2
Location: NEW ZEALAND


PostLink    Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I intend to build one that...but the problem for me is the boilmaker's size,I have a steelless steel work table,the size is about 1800mm long,650mm wide and 600 high......I prefer 20 gallon kettle, but I don't know whether it's enough place for three ....I try to find how wide,long,and high in there web....but I haven't found any detailed imformation about size....does any one knows? or I have to use 10 gallon kettle instead?

Thank you!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Irisxiao wrote:
Hi, I intend to build one that...but the problem for me is the boilmaker's size,I have a steelless steel work table,the size is about 1800mm long,650mm wide and 600 high......I prefer 20 gallon kettle, but I don't know whether it's enough place for three ....I try to find how wide,long,and high in there web....but I haven't found any detailed imformation about size....does any one knows? or I have to use 10 gallon kettle instead?

Thank you!

Blichmann has detailed sizing information on the G2 kettles on their website:

http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/boilermaker

For the 20 gallon G2:

Diameter (in) of sidewall: 17.7"
Diameter (in) base of step: 14.7"
Height (in) Bare Pot Add 2.25" for lid: 20.7"

Kal

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Irisxiao



Joined: 23 Aug 2015
Posts: 2
Location: NEW ZEALAND


PostLink    Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Irisxiao wrote:
Hi, I intend to build one that...but the problem for me is the boilmaker's size,I have a steelless steel work table,the size is about 1800mm long,650mm wide and 600 high......I prefer 20 gallon kettle, but I don't know whether it's enough place for three ....I try to find how wide,long,and high in there web....but I haven't found any detailed imformation about size....does any one knows? or I have to use 10 gallon kettle instead?

Thank you!

Blichmann has detailed sizing information on the G2 kettles on their website:

http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/boilermaker

For the 20 gallon G2:

Diameter (in) of sidewall: 17.7"
Diameter (in) base of step: 14.7"
Height (in) Bare Pot Add 2.25" for lid: 20.7"

Kal



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TheFC3



Joined: 19 Aug 2015
Posts: 4
Location: Florida


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question regarding the washer and o-ring. If I'm using a G2 kettle for my mash tun, why can't you use the same o-rings and stainless washers where the return hose elbow and ball valve are located or vice versa? Is the OD of the 1/2" nipple larger than the OD on the NPT fitting with the integrated nut that comes on the G2?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct. The size is different.

Kal

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TheFC3



Joined: 19 Aug 2015
Posts: 4
Location: Florida


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know the size of the hole in the bottom of the kettle where the valve is attached? Is it 13/16" or a full 3/4"? Thanks.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheFC3 wrote:
Does anyone know the size of the hole in the bottom of the kettle where the valve is attached? Is it 13/16" or a full 3/4"? Thanks.

Given that it can use a standard 1/2" ball valve (I've tried swapping out the existing valve for a Blichmann or generic 1/2" ball valve) I would imagine the hole size the same as all the other holes we put in the kettle for 1/2" ball valves. So 13/16".

Use this punch: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/GreenLee-13-16-round-chassis-or-radio-not-conduit-punch-for-making-13-16-diameter-holes

Good luck!

Kal

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GLRRA47



Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 41
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new Anvil brand by Blichmann has ball valves. I'll be interesting to see how they are accepted.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GLRRA47 wrote:
The new Anvil brand by Blichmann has ball valves. I'll be interesting to see how they are accepted.

They're a budget kettle that unfortunately are missing a lot of the features I like about the Boilermakers (features that can't be added, which at least adding a ball valve to the Boilermakers is possible for very little cost.

Kal

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GLRRA47



Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 41
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which features are missing in the Anvils? I'm looking at doing an electric brewery in 2016 and in the planning stage now.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GLRRA47 wrote:
Which features are missing in the Anvils? I'm looking at doing an electric brewery in 2016 and in the planning stage now.

Tons of things. Quickly off the top of my head:

- No sight glass at all. All you get is etched markings inside which means you need to lift the lid every time to check and can't easily check sparge rates (see my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP for tricks/tips on how I do this - none of which is possible on the Anvil kettles). This one alone has me looking elsewhere right off the bat.

- No stepped bottom so they're prone to side wall shunting which means possibly lower efficiency.

- False bottom has a giant handle in the middle making stirring while mashing in more difficult. The false bottom sits REALLY high off the bottom too as it's completely above the dip tube, creating tons of dead space (not everyone will care) which may limit the amount of grain you can use (not everyone will care about this either).

- Dip tube doesn't slide in and out by hand. It's an NPT fitting which may require a wrench to tighten properly. They say "installs quickly without tools" but if there's any leaks you'll lose suction and leave behind a ton of wort so I'd probably want to wrench tighten to be sure. I'd have to see it / play it with in person to confirm however.

- They have a tri-clad bottom which makes them heavy and more expensive with zero benefit on any gas or electric setup (including ours). Only benefits induction.

For a complete list of the benefits of their other Boilermaker kettles, see our kettles article here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/kettles-overview

Kal

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Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Thu Dec 24, 2015 2:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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GLRRA47



Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 41
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 2:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good info - I wondered about the false bottom handle too Thanks!
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BeerMaverick



Joined: 18 Feb 2016
Posts: 1



PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 6:12 pm    Post subject: Blichmann New Kettles Have Heating Element Reply with quote

Has anyone tried building with these yet? Not sure when Blichmann came out with these (or if they've been addressed already in the forum somewhere), but these kettles appear to have the heating elements already installed (boil coil). Can this directly substitute the heating elements and installation procedures described on the electric brewery website? Wondering if it would get in the way of the herms coil.
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