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Fuller's London Pride
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kal
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

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PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:29 am    Post subject: Fuller's London Pride Reply with quote


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Photo (c) http://www.fullers.co.uk/

Fuller’s London Pride is deep amber or bronze in colour, with a thinnish off-white head. It's a smooth and astonishingly complex beer, which has a distinctive malty base complemented by a rich balance of well developed hop flavours from the Target, Challenger and Northdown varieties.

Fuller’s London Pride is somewhat lighter than their ESB, but the rich, underlying caramel and toffee sweetness is still there. This is complemented by Fuller’s signature orangey notes, provided by their in-house yeast (available to homebrewers as Wyeast 1968 London ESB Ale liquid yeast or White Labs WLP002 English Ale liquid yeast).

London Pride is satisfying and refreshing, and a cut above the average session bitter.

In the UK, draught London Pride is brewed to 4.1% ABV (cask and keg), while in bottles and cans it has a strength of 4.7% ABV, making it an ideal session-strength premium ale. In most of their overseas markets, a keg version at 4.7% ABV is available. We chose to make the 4.1% ABV version here.

5.5 million pints of London Pride are exported each year from the brewery in Chiswick UK:

Photo (c) http://www.fullers.co.uk/

London Pride has twice been awarded Champion Best Bitter at the CAMRA Great British Beer Festival (1979 and 1995), and achieved the ultimate accolade of Champion Beer of Britain in 1979. It has won a host of awards around the world, including being crowned Supreme Champion at the 2000 International Beer and Cider competition.

If you don't like hoppy/bitter beers, don't let the word 'bitter' throw you off. English bitters are nowhere near as bitter as American styles. In fact, London Pride is all about balance. It's only bitter enough to balance the malt backbone.

Some recipes for this beer will call for flaked maize (corn). Fullers moved away from using that many years ago and now only use British pale malt and crystal malt. If you want do an 'old school' version of this beer, replace approximately 15% of the British Maris Otter Malt with flaked maize.

You may have troubles finding all of the hops needed as some are hard to find. Some hop substitutions will still give you an enjoyable bitter, just try and stick with English hops if possible. You can (for example) make a very nice variant with only UK East Kent Goldings (EKG) hops as they're much easier to find.

Yeast substitutions should be avoided however. One of the keys to brewing this right is to use Fuller's own yeast (Wyeast 1968 London ESB Ale liquid yeast or White Labs WLP002 English Ale liquid yeast). This yeast does not attenuate very well so we purposely mash at a low temperature (149F). The yeast is also highly flocculant (likes to settle out) so giving the bottom a gentle stir once a day during fermentation can help it from falling out too soon if you find you have attenuation problems.

Serve this beer with fairly low carbonation (the lower the better in my humble opinion, or even better, as a cask ale). If you have the means to serve it through a beer engine with no extra carbonation at all other than residuals left over from fermentation, do it! I think you'll really enjoy the difference. Another option that I use is serving the beer on a stout faucet pushed by 30/70 CO2/Nitrogen blend to get a nice creamy head and close to flat beer. One cheap and inexpensive way to (sort of) mimic this is to use a syringe. Pour the beer as you would normally and then suck up a syringe full and force it back into the beer, hard. Repeat 2-3 times and you'll knock most of the C02 out of solution leaving a nearly flat beer with a creamy head. Not quite the same texture, but it gets you part ways there. I tried this for years before I finally added real CO2/Nitrogen serving setup. Over carbonation destroys a lot of the subtleties of this beer. Don't over carbonate!

I brewed it for the first time on December 29, 2009.

Brew up a batch and let me know how you like it!

Interested in seeing what we're brewing right now? Follow our Instagram feed for pictures and videos of our brewing activities as they happen.

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Fuller's London Pride (batch #107)

Size: 12.0 US gal (post-boil @ 68F)
Mash Efficiency: 95%
Attenuation: 74.5%
Calories: 140 kcal per 12.0 fl oz
Original Gravity: 1.042 (style range: 1.040 - 1.048)
Terminal Gravity: 1.011 (style range: 1.008 - 1.012)
Color: 11.5 (style range: 5.0 - 16.0)
Alcohol: 4.1% (style range: 3.8% - 4.6%)
Bitterness: 29 (style range: 25.0 - 40.0)

Ingredients:
13.75 lb British Maris Otter Malt (92.6%)
1.1 lb British Crystal Malt 90L (7.4%)
1.25 oz UK Target Hops (10.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min [19.5 IBU]
0.75 oz UK Challenger Hops (7.0%) - added during boil, boiled 15 min [3.93 IBU]
0.75 oz UK Northdown Hops (9.6%) - added during boil, boiled 15 min [5.39 IBU]
1 Whirlfloc Tablet (Irish moss) - added during boil, boiled 15 min
4 packs Wyeast 1968 London ESB Ale liquid yeast (or an appropriate starter*)
- OR -
4 vials White Labs WLP002 English Ale liquid yeast (or an appropriate starter*)

Notes:
Add 500mg potassium metabisulphite to 20 gallons water to remove chlorine/chloramine (as required).
Water treated with brewing salts to: Ca=110, Mg=18, Na=17, Cl=49, S04=92
(Basically Randy Mosher's ideal Pale Ale numbers with slightly less Sulphate and a Cl:S04 ratio of 1:2 - we're not making a hoppy American beer here so we go a bit easy on accentuating bitterness).
For complete details on how to adjust your water, refer to our step by step Water Adjustments guide.
1.25 qt/lb mash thickness. Single infusion mash at 149F for 90 mins. Mashout to 168F.
60-90 min fly sparge with ~6 pH water. Collect 13.9 gallons in boil kettle.
Boil for 60 minutes. Lid on at flameout, start chilling immediately.
Cool wort to 66F and aerate well. Ferment at 66-68F until complete.
This yeast drops brilliantly clear without need of any clarifiers.
See above for recommendations on carbonation/packaging.

*For hints on how to make a starter see Chapter 6 of How to Brew and Appendix A of Brewing Classic Styles. Also see the stirplate/starter equipment I use.

For complete brewing instructions, see our Brew Day: Step by Step guide.

Enjoy!

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British Prime Minister Mr. Cameron enjoying a pint of Pride in the Hock Cellar tasting room at Fuller's brewery:

Photo (c) http://www.fullers.co.uk/


Photo (c) http://www.fullers.co.uk/

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Mon Jun 04, 2018 8:56 pm; edited 17 times in total
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Doubleplugga



Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Posts: 42
Location: Perth, Australia

Drinking: Store bought craft beer

Working on: Ruthless Rye clone!


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome. I can't wait to brew this. London pride is by far one of my favourite beers. I was in London last year and drank plenty of this beer off of the hand pump. There is a lot to be said about hand pumped ale, it is superb! Also did the brewery tour. As I was the only Aussie there and seemed to be the only home brewer asking questions the tour guide invited me to stay behind after the rest of the group had sampled there beers and I pretty much got a free for all in the tasting room! I was pouring my own pride and ESB off the hand pump. Could have stayed there all afternoon.
And yes, that is a flying monkey brewery t shirt I am wearing in the picture. Stopped off at the brewery in Barrie, Ontario on my trip to Canada a couple of years ago.



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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice! It looks like they only serve beer through beer engines or through stout faucets at the Fuller's tasting room?

Do you remember if they use sparklers on the beer engine nozzles? Hard to tell from the picture, but it doesn't appear they do. I would imagine they don't from this comment here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_engine#Sparkler

Quote:
Generally, breweries in Northern England serve their beers with a sparkler attached and breweries in the South without, but this is by no means definitive.


Flying Monkeys makes some interesting beers - and I can actually get it around here since they're in Ontario. They Hoptical Illusion is a popular one with my friends (a bit like my Electric Pale Ale, just maltier).

Kal

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Doubleplugga



Joined: 31 Aug 2012
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Location: Perth, Australia

Drinking: Store bought craft beer

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PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Kal. Yeah mate from memory all their well known ales were served on the hand pump only. They did have a couple of lesser known beers on the hand pump as well, chiswick bitter etc. I can't remember the names of them all. I can't remember the beers that were on the carbonated draught beer taps you see in the background, I didn't taste them and took no notice, I was there for the hand pump beer! And no, I saw no sparklers on the nozzles. Pride and ESB. Are just such fantastic beers off the pump. I also went to the Great British Beer Festival whilst I was in London. There must have been over 150 hand pumped ales there, outstanding.

I loved Flying Monkeys beers whilst I was in Canada. It was very hard to find good craft beers up your way Kal! Hoptical Illusion was one of the better ones I could find at the local LCBO store. Beer was very cheap in Canada compared to where I am from but the craft beer selection was quite limited. I couldn't even find Sierra Nevada in Canada, is there a reason for this Kal?

Scotty

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doubleplugga wrote:
It was very hard to find good craft beers up your way Kal!

Yup! It's definitely one of the reasons I decided to make my own and why you see so many clones on my recipes page - many of these beers are simply not available here...

Quote:
Hoptical Illusion was one of the better ones I could find at the local LCBO store. Beer was very cheap in Canada compared to where I am from but the craft beer selection was quite limited. I couldn't even find Sierra Nevada in Canada, is there a reason for this Kal?

There are a ton of fairly large American beers (like SN) that aren't available. To find out the exact reasons you'd have to talk to the breweries as well as the execs at the 2 places you can only buy beer in Ontario: The Beer Store (which is owned by the major breweries AB InBev, Molson Coors, and Sapporo - no conflict of interest there!), and the LCBO. What gets sold is heavily controlled. It should come as no surprise that The Beer Store has no interest in selling beers not involved with those 3 owners.

Recently there's been a big push to 'free our beer' and allow other places to sell such as convenience stores. More info here: http://freeourbeer.ca/

The Beer Store's obviously scared that people want choice so they've even created their own 'informational' website that they've tried to make appear unbiased (there's no mention of The Beer Store). It has nothing but misleading information trying to trick consumers into thinking that allowing other locations to sell beer is a bad idea. See: http://ontariobeerfacts.ca/

They've even come out with controversial commercials like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OLn5QojMH8

Another reason that may cause Sierra Nevada to not sell here is that they supposedly require their distributors to use refrigerated transportation and storage warehouses. This may restrict their market, but you can get some of their beers in British Columbia so who knows.

We used to be able to get Dogfish Head here but they stopped importing into Ontario a few years back when their popularity grew and they chose to limit their export to closer regions.

Kal

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drcraig



Joined: 04 May 2014
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal,

What do you recommend as far as how much time to secondary?

How would this best be carbed if you don't have a beer engine or nitro tap setup?

I plan to keg it, but could go either way on forcing vs dextrose. How many volumes of CO2?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like many brewers, I don't use a secondary for any of my beers - I haven't used one in years. I do a single vessel fermentation (see my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP article for more info). Ferment until done and then wait another week or so and rack to a brite tank to clarify with gelatine for a few days before packaging.

Some may call this 'brite tank' a secondary but that's incorrect. A 'secondary' is a vessel you rack the beer into while it's still actively fermenting. There was a time when yeasts were not great and old brewing books would tell you as soon as the krausen (foam) fell after a few days in the primary, you had to rack to a secondary fermenter to continue fermentation. I and many others do not recommend this. For more info see the fermentation hints in Brewing Classic Styles.

If you don't have a beer engine or nitro, carb on the very low side, probably around 0.75 to 1.3 to volumes per the style guidlines.

I see no point in using dextrose if you can force carb. Dextrose will only get you sediment. There's zero advantage to using dextrose if you can force carb. Same say it's a more 'natural' carbonation but I don't agree. CO2 is CO2.

Kal

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drcraig



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PostLink    Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had read that you don't secondary per se (neither do I), but what I meant was how long do you age the beer once FG is reached before bottling/kegging. It seems the answer to that is about a week.

I'll try giving this one a week, and then using a brute tank to clarify with gelatin for a few days. Thanks!
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kal
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

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PostLink    Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drcraig wrote:
I had read that you don't secondary per se (neither do I), but what I meant was how long do you age the beer once FG is reached before bottling/kegging. It seems the answer to that is about a week.

Correct, about a week after it's done fermenting, then I rack to a brite tank (5 gallon carbots) to clear with gelatine for 2-4 days, then keg. See "STEP 10: Ferment and package" of my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP article for complete details:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step

Kal

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Castermmt



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PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
drcraig wrote:
I had read that you don't secondary per se (neither do I), but what I meant was how long do you age the beer once FG is reached before bottling/kegging. It seems the answer to that is about a week.

Correct, about a week after it's done fermenting, then I rack to a brite tank to clear with gelatine for 2-4 days, then keg. See "STEP 10: Ferment and package" of my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP article for complete details:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step

Kal


+1 Works like a charm, leaving s nice clear beer.

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drcraig



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PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I racked this to the brite tank yesterday, FG 1.008. Very tasty! It's already obvious this is going to be one awesome beer. I love the fruitiness of the yeast, and depth of flavor with low alcohol. In four days I'll keg and carb to no more than 1.3 volumes.
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matto



Joined: 05 Dec 2013
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PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed this one up a few weeks back. Hit all my numbers and it is great! A very nice session beer! I'm sure it's one I will keep on tap, right next to the Electric APA Smile

thanks again for yet another great recipe

matto
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kal
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

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PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
drcraig wrote:
I had read that you don't secondary per se (neither do I), but what I meant was how long do you age the beer once FG is reached before bottling/kegging. It seems the answer to that is about a week.

Correct, about a week after it's done fermenting, then I rack to a brite tank to clear with gelatine for 2-4 days, then keg. See "STEP 10: Ferment and package" of my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP article for complete details:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step

Kal


Just re-read my comments here... with this beer, the WY1968 / WLP002 yeast is so flocculant (falls out fast) that I usually don't use gelatine at all. (I mention this in the recipe but confused the issue in my previous post).

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captacl



Joined: 30 Sep 2014
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PostLink    Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 1:58 am    Post subject: Serving on Nitro Reply with quote

I just brewed this recipe on Saturday and was wondering how you carbonate it if you plan to serve on Nitro. How many volumes of CO2 do you aim for and then what pressure to you set the regulator on the nitrogen tank to. I am using a 75% nitro 25% CO2 mix. I think either am either carbonating the beer to much or have the pressure set to high for serving since it does seem to foam more then it should. However, with the creamy foam you get from a nitro pour that is not all a completely bad thing I guess. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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kal
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

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PostLink    Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's 1/4 the CO2 in your 75%/25% blend so you need to set the pressure 4 times higher than you would if carb'ing with 100% CO2.

I believe style calls for Bitter And English Pale Ales to be from 0.75 to 1.3 volumes of CO2 which sounds about right. Nice and low.

What pressure you use depends on how cold you're holding the beer as the colder it is, the more CO2 that get into solution. There are online caculators that will tell you how to set this but I found that since I set my keezer cold near freezing that the calculators fall apart with cold temps. (I do this to avoid condensation pooling on the bottom of the keezer - it freezes instead which is easier to manage/clean - about once a year I turn it off for a few hours and the ice build up just falls off. My pours are at 38-40F which is what matters. Because of the low temp, my regulators are set low.)

Like 100% CO2 taps, I found it simpler with Nitro blends to just start low and slowly raise the pressure once a week until I had what I wanted. My Nitro/CO2 (30/70) blended tank regulator's set to ~15 PSI. With your 25/75 blend I'd set it to 15 PSI, wait a couple of weeks for it to carb up and see how it pours. If it's too low, try 20 PSI, wait another 2 weeks, etc. You can do the shake method too I suppose to save time. If you overcarb it's difficult to remove CO2 from cold beer: You need to warm it up and stir it (carefully to avoid oxidation).

Good luck!

Kal

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captacl



Joined: 30 Sep 2014
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PostLink    Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply Kal. Just to clarify, you don't carb the beer first with CO2 then switch it to nitro for serving just at 4 times the pressure. That is what I had done for the Irish Red and ESB. I used the value beer smith gave me to set my pressure with CO2. After a couple weeks I purged the CO2 and hooked it up to the nitro blend at about 4x the pressure. If it doesn't take longer to carb doing it your way then that is great as it is one less step I have to go through.
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kal
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

captacl wrote:
Thanks for the reply Kal. Just to clarify, you don't carb the beer first with CO2 then switch it to nitro for serving just at 4 times the pressure.

Usually, no. Since I have a backlog of kegs that are conditioning/carbing, it's easier for me to just hook it up the way it's going to be eventually and let it carb up over the weeks/months.

Doing it your way I'm sure works the same. All depends on your pipeline/process/what space you have available.

Kal

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PostLink    Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do the CO2 carb first and then hook up to the beer gas mix. I don't have a splitter on my nitro tank, but I have two CO2 tanks and a distribution valve on one, so I can carb many beers at once, but only one can be served on nitro. I also have just one nitro faucet.
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Geosmashing



Joined: 25 Apr 2014
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PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed this recipe on 12-Oct-2015.

It was left in primary for 15 days and kegged on 27-Oct-2015.

Sampled after 9 days of cold conditioning.

Wow! What a fantastic beer. Malty and complex, the English hops and yeast really set this beer apart. I can't believe it's only 4.2% ABV.

It's a bit hazy but I did not use whirlfloc or gelatin this time.



I had this beer on tap at Pub Italia two weeks ago and I think mine is better. Thanks Kal!
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kal
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

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PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yours would most certainly be fresher. Enjoy!

Kal

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