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Dry Irish Stout
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Jerz



Joined: 17 Nov 2013
Posts: 199
Location: Canton, Georgia

Drinking: Centennial IPA, Oktoberfest, Dry Stout...

Working on: Kolsch, Rye IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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I tried sprinkling on top but did it very SLOWLY this time and got a third of the way through the roasted barley (crushed at 10 in the gagghia coffee grinder) and the sparge started getting stuck so I stopped, got the flow going again so I could control temperature and then put the remaining roasted barley in my stainless steel hop spider and filled the boil kettle through the hop spider during sparge and let the barley steep in the boil kettle instead; I removed it once I started the boil. Coincidentally the temp of the boil kettle wort was 148... It worked good that way; not sure how it'll look or tasted compared to putting it all in the mash ton but at least I didn't get completely stuck like the last time when I stirred it all in at one time.


Cheers!

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VaWineSnob



Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed 5 gallon batch of this recipe Saturday. I didn't do a mash out. I mashed in at 148 degrees, rest for 1 hour, then started fly sparging. It was a total brain fart, no idea why I missed the mashout. Efficiency was a bit low at 76%. Taste pre-ferment didn't seem to be terribly off. Any ideas what I can expect in several weeks once it's ready to drink?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure it'll be fine. Lack of mashout most likely only affected your efficiency (assuming you fly sparged) so slightly lower gravity. You can calculate this.

Kal

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chris.beard82



Joined: 27 Oct 2015
Posts: 6
Location: Worcestershire, United Kingdom


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:57 am    Post subject: Roasted Barley Reply with quote

Hi Kal.

Just wondering if you could advise on the best setting for the roller gap to mill the roasted barley, unfortunately i don't have a burr grinder to pass it through.

Thanks!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 1:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Roasted Barley Reply with quote

chris.beard82 wrote:
Hi Kal.

Just wondering if you could advise on the best setting for the roller gap to mill the roasted barley, unfortunately i don't have a burr grinder to pass it through.

Thanks!


You want an extremely fine grind, almost like dust. So I would go as tight as possible. I would start looser then go tighter and re-pass the grain until you get something finely ground. Not sure what gap settings that would be. You can also just throw it in with the rest of the grain at your regular gap setting, but to get the best colour and flavour you want it to almost like dust.

Good luck and welcome to the forum!

Kal

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chris.beard82



Joined: 27 Oct 2015
Posts: 6
Location: Worcestershire, United Kingdom


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal. We finally move into our new house on Friday so i can set up my Electric Brewery. I've been working on scaling some of your recipes for my 15G setup so I'm ready to go.
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David_H



Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 139
Location: Savannah, GA

Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal - What is the reason for not using a blade coffee grinding. I know it will not be a consistent size "grind" but will not cause any harm?
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David

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It certainly won't cause any "harm", but for best results you want an extremely fine grind, almost like dust. Only a burr grinder can do that.

Kal

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David_H



Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 139
Location: Savannah, GA

Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question on Final Gravity. Everything in the mash and brew went well. The OG was 1.048 and the fermentation started quickly at 65F; however between day 2 and 3 the temperature dropped to 60F and then fluctuated up and down a bit and fermentation slowed / stopped at about 1.024. I got the temperature stabilized and controlled and got fermentation going again at 70F. It is now stopped at 1.016 and the yeast is beginning to drop out.

The question is should I try to roust the yeast or add some new yeast to try and push for 3-5 more points? or just leave it as it is?

David

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi David,

Fluctuating temps is not great for yeast and can at times make it fall out / go dormant when the temp drops. The yeast basically goes into survival mode. You can raise the temp up to about 70F and try giving it a gentle stir (carefully so as to not aerate) and then leave it for another week to see if it drops any further. Make sure to keep the temp stable during this time.

Adding more yeast rarely works well given that the simple sugars have all mostly been used up and there's no oxygen left. Once yeast gives up there's often very little you can to kickstart fermentation again. This is why it's important to keep a close watch on temps. Temperature should never drop during active fermentation

Good luck!

Kal

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David_H



Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 139
Location: Savannah, GA

Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I know temperature control and stability is important. I have been fermenting in carboys in a temperature controlled freezer. This is the first fermentation in a 13 gallon SS Conical. I have a ss chiller coil inside the fermenter and a a/c controlled water reservoir that is pumped through the chiller. The fermentor is in the garage and I was hoping the residual heat and the internal heat of the fermentation would keep the natural temperature above 65 and I would only need to maintain a cooling input on the temperature control. (I am in Georgia, USA) However the outside temperature dropped to freezing and the ferment temperature dropped to 60. I reconfigured the temperature control and added hot tap water to the reservoir and started heating the ferment, but I had no way to maintain the temperature in the reservoir and the ferment temperature started to fluctuate down as the reservoir cooled and back up as I added more hot water.

I finally got a heat pad on the outside of the fermenter and I have since been able to control both heating and cooling. I reset the ferment temp to 70 in hopes of restarting and it did (its been stable at 70 for about 4-5 days), however it seems to have slowed way down. There is some fermentation based on a small amount of CO2 still coming off. I will give the fermenter a gentle stir to see if that will increase the activity. I will give it at least one more week before I crash chill.

The crash chill will be the next test of the system to see how cold I can get the ferment. Right now the cooling liquid is water only, but I have 2 gallons of propylene glycol to lower the freezing point and I should be able to get my coolant down to about 20F. With that I am hoping to get the ferment down to the mid 30's.

Thanks for the input.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David_H wrote:
There is some fermentation based on a small amount of CO2 still coming off.

Don't use an airlock to gauge fermentation, especial near the end. CO2 escaping doesn't necessarily mean fermentation. For example, as you heat it up it could simply be CO2 coming out of solution (normal when you heat up carbonated liquids). With some setups CO2 leaks out other places (and people think no bubbles means no fermentation). Always use a hydrometer to measure. Ignore airlock activity.

Also make sure the hydrometer you do use is calibrated and that you're compensating for temperature. Complete details: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/parts-list-using?page=7

Good luck!

Kal

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sandovalch



Joined: 29 Jul 2015
Posts: 41
Location: Guatemala

Working on: Irish Red Ale, American Amber Ale


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question about this recipe. I made it, but had some trouble at the mash tun. Everything got stuck and I had to pump the wort manually to the BK. Maybe I "moved" the mash around too much when adding the burr-grinded barley?
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

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PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sandovalch wrote:
I have a question about this recipe. I made it, but had some trouble at the mash tun. Everything got stuck and I had to pump the wort manually to the BK. Maybe I "moved" the mash around too much when adding the burr-grinded barley?


Kal warns that flow restriction is possible, did you follow Kal's technique?

Quote:
Grind the roasted barley fine (I use a setting of 10) and add it after the 90 minute mash rest is complete. This avoids lowering the mash pH too far and reduces the chance of astringency which can occur from over-steeping highly roasted grains. Once the 90 minute mash is over, stop the mash pump, add the roasted barley, and give it a good stir to mix it into the existing grain bed. You need to stir well as otherwise the fine layer of powdery roasted barley on top may stop the flow. Start the mash pump again and continue with your mashout. The wort will be cloudy again but it will clear as the grain bed rises to mashout temperature over 20-30 minutes.

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup. I mention that hint because I had that issue. Because of the really fine grind it created a fine layer of silt that flow couldn't get through. I had to give it a stir to mix it all in and then all was good.

Kal

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jonymac



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 138



PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one came out perfect!

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!

Kal

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David_H



Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 139
Location: Savannah, GA

Drinking: Dry Irish Stout, Electric Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, Irish Red Ale


PostLink    Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love this hobby and I love this beer ! ! !
There were a few scary moments when some of the early tastes from the fermenter were really sharp and astringent. (I think I was getting some of the very fine particulate matter from the finely ground roasted barley) I used a blow off tube and late in the ferment I sucked some of that water into the fermenter. Confused This is the first stout in my new nitrogen tap system and it took a couple of days to get it balanced.

BUT.

LAST NIGHT I got the perfect pour and it tasted SOOO good and silky smooth...

I love this hobby....... Very Happy

David
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats David! A real nitro pour on this beer really makes a difference. Enjoy!

Kal

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Veritas



Joined: 15 Jan 2012
Posts: 15



PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2016 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed up a batch of this last weekend and my numbers were perfect. I did try to add the "black dust" without stirring the mash, but it did slow the system way down to a trickle, almost stuck. I gave the mash a quick stir, and after the bed settled (which didn't take long), it flowed perfectly. After the sparge was complete, my mash bed was even and level, just like always. And as mentioned, my numbers were great. So I highly recommend stirring the mash after adding the dark ground malt, as Kal suggests.
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