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Dry Irish Stout
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Veritas



Joined: 15 Jan 2012
Posts: 15



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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I am enjoying a few pints of stout to celebrate Memorial Day here in the States... I brewed this about two and half months ago, and let me tell you; it is an incredibly smooth, malty, chocolaty, quenching brew! Nitro really does make a difference on this one. Cheers!
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hickster88



Joined: 23 Sep 2011
Posts: 50
Location: Elmhurst, Illinois

Drinking: 7 Beers on tap.85 gallons available.

Working on: Dirty Blonde Chocolate


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:05 pm    Post subject: Guinness recipe Reply with quote

I tried this recipe about a month ago and I have just noticed I bought roasted 300l and not 500l. Beer is good but not quite where I wanted it to be. How much of a difference would you guess the 500 would have made?
Thanks, John

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would have been a bit more roasty, maybe. Though as you go up in lovibond rating the numbers get a bit less meaningful because of the scale. For example, 300L to 500L isn't as big a difference as 20L to 100L.

Kal

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hbohnet



Joined: 22 Sep 2013
Posts: 33
Location: Canmore, AB


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first attempt at this recipe was disastrous due to stuck mash. I followed Kal's instructions, grinding the roasted barley in a burr grinder and stirring at end of mash rest. Within a few of minutes of restarting the pump the flow stopped and could not get it going no matter what I tried. I want to brew this again and trying to figure out what to do different. I have a couple of questions and looking for any advice others have.

I really stirred in the roasted barley the last brew, perhaps too much? Should the stirring take place at the top part of mash tun or stir right down to false bottom?

After stirring should the grain bed settle before starting pump?

I have never used them but would adding rice hulls help?

My brew system is a Kal clone with Blichmann 20 gal mash tun/false bottom. I have approx 25 brews using this setup and have never experienced a stuck mash. Appreciate any advice. Thanks!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What mill gap do you use for your 'regular' grain? (Not the stuff done in the burr grinder). I recommend 0.040-0.050": http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/grain-mill?page=3

If you have issues with stuck mashes, rice hulls can always help. No harm there.
It can also help to open the pump valve slowly over a few minutes after stirring in.
Doesn't really matter how 'deep' you stir, you just want to get rid of that even layer of finely ground roasted barley. If you stir in just half way down that's fine and will also help clear the wort faster than if you completely mix it in. No need for any settling.

Kal

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hbohnet



Joined: 22 Sep 2013
Posts: 33
Location: Canmore, AB


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a 3 roller mill set to 0.050 to 0.055. I am going to try rice hulls and start with pump valve closed up to reduce flow for a while. I will post back my results as others seem to have similar issues. As always thanks for your help Kal!
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siestakey



Joined: 10 Mar 2017
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is everyone doing water calculations for this? Are you hitting the water profile & pH with only the base malt and flaked barley in your calculations? I'm concerned with adding roasted barley and having the pH be off downstream in the process. I'm using RO water so there's no buffering capability.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I add mine at the end of the mash. See the note in the recipe:

Quote:
Grind the roasted barley fine (I use a setting of 10) and add it after the 90 minute mash rest is complete. This avoids lowering the mash pH too far and reduces the chance of astringency which can occur from over-steeping highly roasted grains. Once the 90 minute mash is over, stop the mash pump, add the roasted barley, and give it a good stir to mix it into the existing grain bed. You need to stir well as otherwise the fine layer of powdery roasted barley on top may stop the flow. Start the mash pump again and continue with your mashout. The wort will be cloudy again but it will clear as the grain bed rises to mashout temperature over 20-30 minutes.


Kal

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siestakey



Joined: 10 Mar 2017
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry I should have been more clear in my question - if you target 5.3ish pH with the base malt and flaked barley for the duration of the mash and then add the roasted barley once the mash is complete, the pH of your runoff into the kettle should be considerably lower - are you doing any adjustments at that time to bring it back more in line?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't, because I believe a lower pH is better than higher. But I suppose you could, to change the pH of the boil and the final product.

In the boil, a pH of 5.0 to 5.5 (measured at mash temperature) is common. If it is too high you may want to consider adding some 88% lactic acid to get it down into this range. A proper pH helps produce a good protein break during the boil which in turn helps with beer clarity and long term stability. A boil pH that is too high can also cause harsh hop bitterness.

Often, the pH of the final beer describes how “lively” a beer is too. An otherwise well-brewed beer can taste lackluster if the pH is too high.

Try it both ways and see which you prefer! (or if you notice a difference). Given that some will add lactic acid right to the beer at kegging time or even when pouring a pint (more info in my recipe), there are lots options available and no right or wrong answers.

Kal

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whistledown



Joined: 17 Jul 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Victoria Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the last few months I have brewed 250 litres of 5 different types of beer (4 from your recipe list) for my sons wedding. This Guinness clone was the first to go. Australians are not normally stout drinkers but this recipe hit the mark. It is the closest recipe to the original and will be one of my regulars from now on. I look forward to trying your more or your recipes, they are constantly very good. Thanks
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to hear you're enjoying the recipes whistledown!

Kal

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Master



Joined: 30 Jan 2016
Posts: 166
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

Drinking: Liquid Schwartz Schwarzbier, Stinky Porter, Spiced Apple Cider

Working on: AbbyNormal Glutton Free Framboise Lambic, Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse, Pineapple Cider


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal,

Are you carbonating on straight CO2 then going to beer gas for serving, or is it on beer gas from initial packaging onward? If so how many volumes are you putting in?

Don't have beer gas at the moment, but I can stick my argon tank on it.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Master wrote:
Are you carbonating on straight CO2 then going to beer gas for serving, or is it on beer gas from initial packaging onward? If so how many volumes are you putting in?

You can either way. It won't make a difference. To keep things simple I usually just go with straight beer gas right from the start. I just hook up the keg to the beer gas at serving pressure and wait. It takes longer this way but I'm not usually in a hurry, and the ~2-3 weeks help mellow out the beer anyway.

If you want to speed things up you could certainly pre-carb kegs using only CO2 (even done overnight at high pressure) and then push with a beer gas blend. How much you pre-carb isn't overly critical (within reason) as it'll mostly all get knocked out of solution as it goes through the stout faucet.

Cheers!

Kal

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Master



Joined: 30 Jan 2016
Posts: 166
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

Drinking: Liquid Schwartz Schwarzbier, Stinky Porter, Spiced Apple Cider

Working on: AbbyNormal Glutton Free Framboise Lambic, Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse, Pineapple Cider


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed up a batch, adding the really dark stuff at the end of mash.

OG was right on target at 1.045. Mash profile was estimating 1.010 FG

Fermented down to 1.016 within 48 hours. At 1.015 now after a week. At that low of a drop in a week, it could be just a reading error.

I think the lack of attenuation might be the Patent and Roast going in once it's basically ramping to mashout.

Going on a 10 day vacation, and am debating the "keg as is" tomorrow, or let it sit for another 10 days and see what happens. Just won't be anyone home to check on the airlocks. Should be OK since we are done or almost done so I don't think the CO2 will evap the Starsan.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Master wrote:
I think the lack of attenuation might be the Patent and Roast going in once it's basically ramping to mashout.

Why / how ? Adding that at the end of the mash is to avoid lowering the mash pH too far and reduces the chance of astringency which can occur from over-steeping highly roasted grains. A higher pH (more basic) produce does a sweeter beer due to a less fermentable wort and more body, but the concern is that the amount of highly kilned malt we add may take it a bit too low. You should still get a well fermentable wort either way. The recipe goes from 1.044 to 1.011 to make a 4.2% ABV beer. You're at 1.045 starting so you should come out around 1.012 or so. I'd wait longer. No harm.

Quote:
Going on a 10 day vacation, and am debating the "keg as is" tomorrow, or let it sit for another 10 days and see what happens.

I would let it sit near room temp and wait. The gravity's likely to drop a few more points.

Quote:
Just won't be anyone home to check on the airlocks. Should be OK since we are done or almost done so I don't think the CO2 will evap the Starsan.

Should be ok. Use an airlock with a lid on it like either of these 2 and you can go week and weeks:

https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/3-piece-airlock
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/s-shaped-airlock

I don't think I've ever had to re-filled one in the ~30 years I've been brewing. Then again, I've always just use regular tap water. Wink

Kal

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Master



Joined: 30 Jan 2016
Posts: 166
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

Drinking: Liquid Schwartz Schwarzbier, Stinky Porter, Spiced Apple Cider

Working on: AbbyNormal Glutton Free Framboise Lambic, Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse, Pineapple Cider


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've brewed a very similar one in the past, but didn't do the late mash addition. Just gonna let it sit. It's a temp controlled conical at 67F, so I'm not worried about temperature fluctuations.

Just dropped off my N2 tank to be refilled as a 75/25 Beer Gas mix tank.
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Master



Joined: 30 Jan 2016
Posts: 166
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

Drinking: Liquid Schwartz Schwarzbier, Stinky Porter, Spiced Apple Cider

Working on: AbbyNormal Glutton Free Framboise Lambic, Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse, Pineapple Cider


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had airlocks go dry, but that was probably due to being gone for two and a half months and the other consumer of my beer and cider not filling it up (but the cider airlocks did get filled)
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know, you remind me of my wine making days now... (about 20 years ago). I'd leave wine for a year to bulk age in carboys on oak and I do now remember having to refill once and a while! For 10 days, I think you'll be ok. Cheers!

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10128
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recipe has been re-written and moved to our new site.

See: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/dry-irish-stout

This thread will remain open for questions. Cheers!

Kal

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