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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:47 pm    Post subject: New Build Reply with quote


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Thought i would start a build thread, it will most likely be a slow progressing one but I have started with the room in the basement. The benches are all simply 2x4 construction with 1/2" CBU as a cover in the wet areas. My plan is to next get some peg board on the right wall, where the control panel will ultimately live. I will then get the spa panel wired in, and hopefully by springtime have the CP in, along with the elements. I will then go to a single heated kettle so I can move my brewing operation indoors, while waiting for funds to get three new blichmanns. the floor is poured so that it all directs towards the floor drain as well, so I will be able to hose down as necessary. I will connect to the overhead cold water supply and run a stub out with a male camlock as well, so filling and cooling will be a breeze.





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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a promising location. Keep us posted and good luck with the build. Take your time and do it right. Stay Safe, Castermmt
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foomench



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 710
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can totally relate to that location. We have just about the same laundry drying rack in the brewery/laundry area.

Good luck!

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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so im ready to order the control kit but at the moment funding only allows the kit, a single element, and temp probe. I have a 15g BK and a cooler, along with another small 5 gallon pot (propane setup) my question is around using the panel without the complete herms system.

is it reasonable to install the element into the current BK (which will ultimately be my HLT) and simply brew inside with the same process I have done with propane for the last few years? I'd use the HLT element output while heating strike and sparge and then just plug it into the BK outlet when it comes time for boil. Obviously its not ideal, but I'd like to be able to use the new panel during the winter until funds allow the buildout to complete.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9977
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes - that should work fine.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal, im thinking I may really do this as a modular buildout wherever possible so the next step will probably be getting the herms coil plumbed and continue to use my cooler. Do you think there are any major issues with boiling in a pot with the herms coil installed?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9977
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cleaning would be very difficult. That's the major issue. I've seen some people design setups with integrated cooling coils in the boil kettles and all I can think is that I wouldn't want to be the person who has to clean that!

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point, cleaning is always overlooked until the end of that first brew day. Ill probably try to get a blichmann kettle and just use the cooler until I can afford the third pot. Thanks for the quick replies, cant wait to get the order for the CP in

Ryan
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225



Joined: 07 Jan 2013
Posts: 27
Location: New Orleans


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks promising. Good luck!
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 3:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone. Im going to order the kettles soon and have a question regarding sizing.

I almost exclusively do 5 gallon batches. We don't drink enough to really warrant 10 gallon batches often, so im thinking the 20 gallon boilermakers are overkill. That being said, on the off chance I decide to do a 10 gallon batch it would be a session style beer, so im thinking the 15 gallon pots may be better fit.

Its not the cost im concerned about, although i wont argue with saving $150, its more the fact that ill probably barely cover the element/herms with 5 gallon batches

I currently boil 12 gallons in my 15 gallon pot, so if i had to im sure I could do those random 10 gallon batches

everyones input is really appreciated.

Edit: just read blichmanns site and maybe their recommendation is best of 15/15/20 (BK/MLT/HLT) . I also read Kal's kettle overview again and he states the element is just below the 5 gallon mark in a 20G, do you guys all have the 20s for 5 gallon batches?
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Holter



Joined: 07 Oct 2011
Posts: 221
Location: Los Angeles, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can afford it, I would go with the 20G like Kal suggests. If the price difference is really only $150, its a no brainer for me. Yeah you may not need the larger capacity for every brew, but on the occasion that you do need the extra volume you will be glad you didnt skimp. Just my $.02.

Also, from personal experience I upgraded from using a 15 gallon kettle setup to 26 gallon kettles and I am thrilled i did so. I usually only brew 10 gallon batches, but lately i have been brewing a ton. Most recently i brewed a 15 gallon batch of russian imperial stout that was then split up into 1 5 gallon keg (which i will bottle most of for long term aging), 5 gallons in an oak barrel, 2.5 gallons in a secondary ferenter which i added coffee to and 2.5 gallons to a barrel aging blend project that i have started that also has a barley wine and belgian dark strong. So at the end of one batch I have a ton of beer to age/store in different methods that only cost me one brew day.

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Holter
LABeerFan.com
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah the price is negligible, but I like to brew often and honestly a 5G batch lasts nearly 2 months in our house. I'm just concerned with having issues with the 20G kettles on 5 gallon batches and wanted to make sure the element is truly covered throughout the course of the boil.
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foomench



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 710
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use 15G keggles for my HLT and BK, and a 12G cooler for my MLT. They work fine for 10 gallon batches and 5 gallons as well. I do have to be careful with a 12+ gallon boil, but it can be done. I have supplemented a few high gravity (> 1.090) 10 gallon batches with a couple of pounds of extract when I maxed out the cooler MLT, which happens just above 28# of grain.
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the info, i think the 15/15/20 model is what i'll probably go with. Ill monitor the boil for 10G batches and it will give the peace of mind that the element is low enough in the kettle for the more common 5G batches
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another relatively simple build question....Do we really need the ball valves on the Herms, water in on the HLT, and wort in on the MT? seems like the flow could be controlled at the pump output and instead I could just stub out those connections with male quick disconnects. The only one I see that could be pretty useful is at the MLT in, so you can easily adjust sparge speed.

I may be just missing something on the others though?
thanks
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skelley



Joined: 24 Feb 2012
Posts: 210
Location: brookfield, wisconsin


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would at minimum do the ball valve on the herms as it is nice to stop outflow after removal of the hose. I suppose you could get away with just one ball valve on the bottom of the herms. I also like to stop the steam coming out of the blk inlet when not using a hose.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9977
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rstreck1 wrote:
Do we really need the ball valves on the Herms,


There's 1/2 gallon of water or wort in there. If you don't have valves, it'll all come pouring out the moment you disconnect.

Quote:
...water in on the HLT...


If you don't you won't be able to fill above the lowest point inside where you have the small piece of tubing, or water will come pouring out.

Quote:
...and wort in on the MT?


Similar reason. Disconnect the hose that hoes from the water in on the HLT at the other end and you'll suck water out of the mash.

Quote:
seems like the flow could be controlled at the pump output and instead I could just stub out those connections with male quick disconnects. The only one I see that could be pretty useful is at the MLT in, so you can easily adjust sparge speed.

Only the pump valves are for controlling flow rate. The others should NEVER be used for controlling flow rate.

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew there had to be a function for everything! thanks Kal and Skelly.
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 2:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

here's the most recent shot. Ill be ordering all the hardware and my DIY CP kit this week, as well as a big shipment of fittings from brewhardware.



water is plumbed, the 4 prong outlet is wired and ready with the gfci breaker installed and tested. First coat of Poly is on the wood surfaces but they'll get one more. Hopefully using the system will be as much fun as building it
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rstreck1



Joined: 10 Oct 2013
Posts: 49



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just placed some giant orders for lots of stainless. Kettles, fittings, pump, coil. cant wait for it all to show up

Kal, i know ive been a pest but if you see this can you confirm you and mike received the latest email about the panel? We've had major issues with our mail filter at work and I used that account to email you guys last time. Thanks! I promise im just itching to get the panel ordered and im not really this annoying

Ryan
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