Heating Element hole leaks

markolomew · Joined: 23 Jan 2014 Posts: 12

Long story short, (when attaching my heating element to my keggles) my holes in the keggles and on my heating element boxes were cut slightly too large and now I have a leak. Rather than point out the obvious about how I miss measured, I'd like to focus on what I can do about plugging this up. I know I can use the adhesive silicon that was provided in the kit to plug up the box side to make the whole flush with the threads, but I am not sure I can do this same thing for the keggle hole (as I'm not sure if this is the best option, as the adhesive seems to be hazardous to ingest).

So, what do you suggest? I've tried wrapping with extra Teflon tape as well. Is there any "boil" safe sealant I can use to plug this hole from the inside of the keggle?

Let me know what "non toxic" fixes you think would work. I guess I could undo it and see about getting the nut welded to the outside of the hole on the keggle, but I'd rather do something in-house if possible.

Please let me know,

Kevin59 · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject:

If it were me I think I would try to find someone to weld a patch over the hole you've got, and then create a new hole at a different location on the pot for the element. This is the most critical/dangerous part of your setup from my perspective, so I wouldn't want to take any risks.

Or you could have a tri-clamp adapter welded to the hole you already cut, and then go with something like this type of setup for your heating element...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/190805657161?lpid=82&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5336652980&toolid=20008&mkevt=1

(Just one example - there are many other sources.)

Link updated to support this site - thank you!

Kevin59 · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:27 pm Post subject: Re: Heating Element hole leaks

foomench · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:29 pm Post subject:

I vote for welding on a hex nut, or a tri-clamp fitting. Find someone that likes beer and maybe you can trade for the welding. If you can't find a welder that likes beer, the one disadvantage of paying someone for just this is that they probably have a minimum time charge. Maybe get some other welding done at the same time?

markolomew · Joined: 23 Jan 2014 Posts: 12

Kevin59 · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:23 pm Post subject:

One more thing to consider on this...

If you're going to be able to just lean your BK over on a sink next to the brewstand and clean it out, having the power cord permanently attached won't be an issue in any way. In my case however I have to take the BK from my brew stand to my sink across the garage where I balance it on the edge and clean it out. My power cord is attached as per the standard build. But if I had it to do all over again I would have gone with a tri-clamp fitting and have a removable power cord. To me it'd be much handier to disconnect the cord and element for cleaning. Easier to then clean the pot (with a tri-clamp cap in place) and easier to clean the heating element.

Beyond that which is just my perceived convenience factor, either a hex nut or tri-clamp can get you to the same end result - brewing beer!

Mug

markolomew · Joined: 23 Jan 2014 Posts: 12

foomench · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:57 pm Post subject:

You don't really need teflon tape for the hex nut. The hex nut and the heating element have straight threads, not tapered. The seal comes from the o-ring.

I'd probably do the tri-clamp thing if I were starting today.

I paid $120 for two hours of stainless welding. That was to put fittings, probably ~20, on 6 different keggles.

Ozarks Mountain Brew · Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject:

silver solder welding spud
http://www.brewhardware.com/fittings-75/120-spuds