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Russian River Pliny The Younger Triple IPA
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wscottcross



Joined: 03 Jul 2015
Posts: 219
Location: CT

Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout

Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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I highly recommend buying the 100 gram can of hopshots if you plan to brew more than one batch of any beer using them. The can is MUCH cheaper. You can get the can for $22 at http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/CO2HOPExtractCan_p/extractco2cans.htm

That equates to about 125ml based on my experience. If you go that route, I highly recommend spending a bit extra for 10ml syringes instead of trying to cheap out like I did and using the 3ml syringes. It was a chore to load up 40+ syringes. Would have been MUCH better to just do 12 or 13 larger ones.
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huhwha



Joined: 10 May 2013
Posts: 71



PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wscottcross wrote:
I highly recommend buying the 100 gram can of hopshots if you plan to brew more than one batch of any beer using them. The can is MUCH cheaper. You can get the can for $22 at http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/CO2HOPExtractCan_p/extractco2cans.htm

That equates to about 125ml based on my experience. If you go that route, I highly recommend spending a bit extra for 10ml syringes instead of trying to cheap out like I did and using the 3ml syringes. It was a chore to load up 40+ syringes. Would have been MUCH better to just do 12 or 13 larger ones.


Thanks for the tip. That's what I'll do when I get ready to brew this.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10600
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup. It's a good option. If you click on our Hop Shot link in the recipe, you'll see that Yakima Valley Hops is mentioned, and the link takes you to the cans and syringes. I give a link to disposable syringes in the original recipe too.

Cheers!

Kal

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Josh



Joined: 02 Jan 2014
Posts: 26
Location: Centennial, CO


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 8:20 pm    Post subject: Dry hopping Reply with quote

Well, seeing as the place down my street has this on tap this Saturday, I am deciding to make it myself.

In reviewing the recipe, Kal, you state to remove the hops after 4 days. I have 2 of the keg hoppers, but removing the hopper multiple times to clean it will add oxidation. Is the intent to add additional hops every 4 days or remove and add hops every 4 days?
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kal
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 8:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Dry hopping Reply with quote

Josh wrote:
removing the hopper multiple times to clean it will add oxidation.

Always purge with CO2. From the recipe:

"The quadruple dry hopping also takes time and you have to be very careful not to oxidize the beer. To minimize contact with air, always purge the headspace with CO2 every time after you open up the vessel. Do the same whenever racking by purging the target vessel with CO2 first."

Quote:
Is the intent to add additional hops every 4 days or remove and add hops every 4 days?

Remove and add. From the recipe:

Add dry hop #1 and hold 7 days, then rack to brite tank (secondary) (That's the same as removing since we're racking off the hops)

Then the next 3 all mention to add followed by a remove:

Add dry hop #2 and hold 4 days. Gently swirl 2-3 times/day. Remove after 4 days.
Add dry hop #3 and hold 4 days. Gently swirl 2-3 times/day. Remove after 4 days.
Add dry hop #4 and hold 4 days. Gently swirl 2-3 times/day. Remove after 4 days.


Good luck!

The beer does test your patience, but it's (IMHO) worth it in the end.

Kal

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Josh



Joined: 02 Jan 2014
Posts: 26
Location: Centennial, CO


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal. I need to buy a third keg hopper I think.

- Prep keg hopper #3, replace keg hopper #1
- Clean keg hopper #1, reload, replace keg hopper #2

I never mind an excuse to buy more beer stuff!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10600
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need for more than the number of kegs you have:

1. Pop the keg lid, pull out the hopper, close the keg lid*
2. Dump the old hops out of the hopper and load up new hops.
3. Pop the keg lid, put in the hopper, close the keg lid, give the keg a quick squirt of CO2.

*You could give the keg a quick squirt of CO2 here too if you're paranoid, but you're going to do it again about 2 mins later at step 3.

Kal

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huhwha



Joined: 10 May 2013
Posts: 71



PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got around to brewing this beast. By far it was the most hoppy and most difficult beer I've made. At the end of the day, it's delicious! For the record, I had a few problems that were really self induced. The brew day was relatively easy. I got the 100g can of hop extract and filled a bunch of 10ml syringes. If you do this, get the syringes with the locking caps to control the sticky mess! Cleaning the bk was not as bad as I was expecting. I ran some pbw solution through to deal with the bulk of the sticky mess. For the stubborn bits I made kind of a pbw paste on a sponge and used some elbow grease. All in all, not too bad.

Fermentation is where the wheels started to come off. I pitched what I thought was a sufficient amount of a healthy yeast starter I had made. I also waited a few days to add the corn sugar. It fermented from 1.091 to 1.026 and then kinda stalled. Crap! I built up another starter of that same yeast and pitched the whole 1.5l starter at high krausen. That did the trick. Ended up at 1.009. Lesson learned. Next time I think I'll just use a sufficient number of dry yeast packs

I wasn't done screwing up though. I got the hop strainer for the keg, which is a great piece of hardware by the way. In my wisdom, I decided to use some nylon thread that was hanging around to secure the strainer. This was not nearly strong enough which resulted in losing the strainer in the bottom of the keg. Attempts to retrieve it with sanitized tongs, etc. were fruitless. A few beers and a day later, I decided to rack it to another keg and continue the process. This time I used dental floss as suggested and had no further issues. Lesson learned again!

I always ask myself the same question when I buy or brew a beer that's new to me. Will I buy or brew this beer again? In this case, yes, although not for the event I had in mind. I love my hoppy beers and this one is great. The only issue is that at nearly 11%, it is best sipped at home and not guzzled at a sporting event!

Thanks for the recipe and insight Kal!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10600
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it worked out well in the end! I have a bunch of extra syringes full of hop oil I bought in the fall that I really need to use up... I'm tempted to make this one again...

Kal

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Josh



Joined: 02 Jan 2014
Posts: 26
Location: Centennial, CO


PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great post, thanks for posting.

I brewed this 10 days ago, and I am at 1.020 and still dropping so I hope I don't stall out. I used 2 Safale-05 packets on a 1L stir plate for 2 days.

As for cleanup, I was so concerned it was going to be a big deal, but it was VERY easy. There is a secret....a plastic putty knife. Cleanup was about 3 seconds longer than cleanup without using the oil.

Really excited to try it, but I have another 20 days or so to go. The refractometer samples sure taste bitter Razz
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wscottcross



Joined: 03 Jul 2015
Posts: 219
Location: CT

Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout

Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My hot water mixing valve is messed up and this results in EXTREMELY hot water (~165F). This is very dangerous but does have one nice side effect; cleaning up the oil from hop shots gets very easy when you can blast very hot water on the kettle. Try heating some water in the kettle to clean it.

I'll be fixing the tempering valve soon, but i"m considering putting a bypass in so I can still use the uber hot water when I want it.

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10600
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wscottcross wrote:
My hot water mixing valve is messed up and this results in EXTREMELY hot water (~165F). This is very dangerous but does have one nice side effect; cleaning up the oil from hop shots gets very easy when you can blast very hot water on the kettle. Try heating some water in the kettle to clean it.

That would certainly make it easier. I'd turn down the hot water tank to ~140F however as it'll save you on heating costs. Don't go much lower as you want to avoid the possibility of Legionnaires' disease:

Above 70 C (158 F): Legionella dies almost instantly
At 60 C (140 F): 90% die in 2 minutes
At 50 C (122 F): 90% die in 80124 minutes, depending on strain
At 48 to 50 C (118 to 122 F): Can survive but do not multiply
32 to 42 C (90 to 108 F): Ideal growth range

Sorry, a bit off topic. Wink

Kal

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wscottcross



Joined: 03 Jul 2015
Posts: 219
Location: CT

Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout

Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
wscottcross wrote:
My hot water mixing valve is messed up and this results in EXTREMELY hot water (~165F). This is very dangerous but does have one nice side effect; cleaning up the oil from hop shots gets very easy when you can blast very hot water on the kettle. Try heating some water in the kettle to clean it.

That would certainly make it easier. I'd turn down the hot water tank to ~140F however as it'll save you on heating costs. Don't go much lower as you want to avoid the possibility of Legionnaires' disease:

Above 70 C (158 F): Legionella dies almost instantly
At 60 C (140 F): 90% die in 2 minutes
At 50 C (122 F): 90% die in 80124 minutes, depending on strain
At 48 to 50 C (118 to 122 F): Can survive but do not multiply
32 to 42 C (90 to 108 F): Ideal growth range

Sorry, a bit off topic. Wink

Kal


I don't have a hot water tank. My hot water come straight off the house boiler. It's essentially an on-demand system. As long as I have oil in the tank, I'll never run out of hot water. That's the nice thing about this system. That, and the fact that there is no tank so there is virtually no risk of Legionnaires' disease from this system. The water in the heating coil is always 170F. To bring it down to safe temperatures for use in sinks and bathing, there is a tempering valve that mixes cold water to bring it down to ~140F. That tempering valve is what I need to replace so that I have reasonable hot water temperatures again.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10600
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wscottcross wrote:
To bring it down to safe temperatures for use in sinks and bathing, there is a tempering valve that mixes cold water to bring it down to ~140F. That tempering valve is what I need to replace so that I have reasonable hot water temperatures again.

Yup - those mixers do seem tempermental. I think we've changed ours out 3 times now in only ~5 years.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Sun Jun 05, 2016 3:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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pmcgrew



Joined: 05 Jun 2016
Posts: 6



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brewed this last weekend, scaled down to 6 gallons. I just pulled my fermenter from the temp controlled fridge to free that up for a Marzen brewday tomorrow. Brewday went well and I pitched 2 packets of S05 rehydrated. I'm still seeing some activity in the airlock, but the sample I took was at 1.024. I'm not hopeful that will drop much more. I did up the sugar content a bit from the recipe and did 1# at the end of the boil and 1# 3 days into fermentation. I hit this with 2 minutes of pure O2 through a stone before pitching and again 12 hours later. Really bummed to not see more attenuation at the 6 day mark. Just curious if anyone else took a gravity reading before the first dry hop and if so, how much more did it drop after 7 days? I'm thinking I may need to pitch some more yeast and get this down a bit more before I add that first dry hop.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10600
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunate! 1.024 is pretty high.

Are you sure the hydrometer is accurate? Has it been calibrated? See here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/parts-list-using?page=7
Have you compensated for temperature? (Probably only a 1 point difference anyway).

What was your starting gravity with the 2# of sugar included?

Everything you did sounds right, so there may be something else not mentioned that was missed / is at play.

pmcgrew wrote:
Just curious if anyone else took a gravity reading before the first dry hop and if so, how much more did it drop after 7 days?

I had written this earlier in the thread:

kal wrote:
Looking at my notes, I actually added 1.5 lbs in the boil and then 1.5 lbs after 4 days of fermentation (the SG had dropped to 1.026). My beer finished at 1.008.

I aerated for ~2 mins with my Fizz-X as I always do, pitched, then aerated again ~10 hours later the same way.


Hope that helps!

Kal

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pmcgrew



Joined: 05 Jun 2016
Posts: 6



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick reply Kal. My starting gravity taking the # of sugar added during fermentation should be 1.087. In retrospect I probably should have taken a gravity reading when I added the sugar, but I did notice more activity the day after adding it. Moving the carboy out of the fermentation freezer roused it a bit and the airlock is fairly active today. This is a Spiedel fermenter with the standard airlock that came with it, so sometimes seeing activity is hard, but it's definitely chugging pretty good this morning. I'm gonna give it another day or two and take another reading before I really freak out. I should be adding the first dry hop today by your schedule, but I'm gonna hold off on that in case I need to try to dry this out more.

FWIW, the sample of beer at 1.024 was actually quite delicious and surprisingly didn't taste overly sweet. I'm excited for the final product.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10600
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, German Pils, Belgian Dubbel, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Belgian IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pmcgrew wrote:
Thanks for the quick reply Kal. My starting gravity taking the # of sugar added during fermentation should be 1.087.

So normal. Just wanted to make sure you weren't really high or something.

Quote:
Moving the carboy out of the fermentation freezer roused it a bit and the airlock is fairly active today.

Actually that raises the question I forgot to ask: What was the wort temp during fermentation? That'll play a huge role. Around 62-66F (wort temp) is probably ideal.

Once you get to where you are now (around 1.024) did you raise the wort temp to 70-72F? (room temp is usually fine). It'll help it finish off.

Kal

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pmcgrew



Joined: 05 Jun 2016
Posts: 6



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fermentation was 64-66 throughout and it's at room temp since last night. I'll check the gravity again in a couple days.
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pmcgrew



Joined: 05 Jun 2016
Posts: 6



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 4:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update. After I moved the fermenter upstairs where it should be sitting around 70ish the airlock showed a bit of activity. Not convinced that it would drop as much as I hoped I contacted one of the local breweries here and got a growler full of 4th generation S05 right from one of their fermenters of IPA. I pitched that just over 2 days ago and the airlock took off again. It's still slowly active, but I took a reading today and it's at 1.009! Sample tasted much better and dry hop #1 is now in there. Now I really can't wait for the final product.
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