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Russian River Pliny The Younger Triple IPA
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10059
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 1:06 am    Post subject: Russian River Pliny The Younger Triple IPA Reply with quote


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Recipe is here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/russian-river-pliny-the-younger-triple-ipa

Questions? Ask below. Cheers!

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Fri Oct 11, 2019 7:40 pm; edited 52 times in total
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Fejj



Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Posts: 213
Location: North Shore, MA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! Time to talk to the boss(work at the LHBS atm) to see if he can get home extract from his wholesalers. Also, wouldng recircing hot PBW threw your BK help quite a bit with the residue you describe?
2cents
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10059
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fejj wrote:
Also, wouldng recircing hot PBW threw your BK help quite a bit with the residue you describe?
2cents

Not sure. The residue was all the way up the kettle (wherever wort or foam touched) so in my case I would have needed to fill the boil 20 gallon kettle almost all the way to the top with water and probably used a TON of cleaner since it would have been very diluted. I was spraying it on concentrated.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Fri Sep 30, 2016 2:00 am; edited 1 time in total
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kchomebrew



Joined: 18 Aug 2013
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Fejj wrote:
Also, wouldng recircing hot PBW threw your BK help quite a bit with the residue you describe?
2cents

Not sure. The residue was all the way up the kettle (wherever wort or foam touched) so in my case I would have needed to fill the boil 20 gallon kettle almost all the way to the with water and probably used a TON of cleaner since it would have been very diluted. I was spraying it on concentrated.

Kal



What about the heating elements ? Did those get any of the residue stuck to them ? This sounds like a total pain in the ass....but now I have to try making it.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10059
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kchomebrew wrote:
What about the heating elements ? Did those get any of the residue stuck to them ?

Slightly less if I remember correctly, but pretty much everything in the boil kettle had a thin layer of tar on it.

Quote:
This sounds like a total pain in the ass....but now I have to try making it.

Wink It's worth it (IMHO!).

Kal

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dunnry



Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 43
Location: Strongsville, OH


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Following your lead, I decided to tackle this brew last weekend. I bought my hopshots in bulk from Yakima Hops along with some 5ml Luer lock syringes and the caps. Total bill on 200g (2 cans) of hops extract + syringes was $77. From that I was able to package 58 hopshots - which works out to $1.32 ea. I do have 40-odd caps and syringes left over from that buy, but as you can see it was not a huge difference from just buying the $1.99 shots from NB.

The sheer amount of actual hops in the boil is huge. The first and early question I had in my mind was, "Do I really need to use the hopshots?". I know that hop resin is a PITA to work with, so perhaps just subbing a high alpha hop would work fine. Well, assuming that each hopshot is about equal to 1oz of 10%AA hops, it means that you would need to add another full pound of hops to get the same bittering as the hop extract. The wort losses to absorption would be pretty bad at that point (they are high as it is). I think hop resin is the only way you can really do this brew.

Here is my layout of the hops needed just for the boil.




And here is the hellish nightmare you get to clean afterwards. I ended up using a plastic scraper to remove a large amount of the gunk at first and then had to fill the kettle mostly full and recirculate PBW to get it actually cleaned. It was nasty stuff to work with and get on your hands.



Things are happily bubbling away right now, however. Hoping this will be worth the expense and effort!
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OkieDokie



Joined: 31 Aug 2013
Posts: 187
Location: Oklahoma

Drinking: Electric ale, Weizen

Working on: Electric lager, American Amber Ale, Dirty Blonde


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know, everyone is going to have to try to make this I just emailed the link to my brother-in-law to get his "help". I know which part he is going to help with Smile . He wants me to make a 90 min IPA from Dogfish Head, so we might tackle this one also. Looks like a great beer!
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OkieDokie



Joined: 31 Aug 2013
Posts: 187
Location: Oklahoma

Drinking: Electric ale, Weizen

Working on: Electric lager, American Amber Ale, Dirty Blonde


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just reading through the recipe sounds like it takes some time to condition once it is made. Has anyone gotten a feel for the amount of conditioning time once kegged?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10059
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dunnry wrote:
The first and early question I had in my mind was, "Do I really need to use the hopshots?".

I had the same feeling when I brewed it... it seemed completely over the top.

Quote:
I know that hop resin is a PITA to work with, so perhaps just subbing a high alpha hop would work fine. Well, assuming that each hopshot is about equal to 1oz of 10%AA hops, it means that you would need to add another full pound of hops to get the same bittering as the hop extract. The wort losses to absorption would be pretty bad at that point (they are high as it is). I think hop resin is the only way you can really do this brew.

I think it's more than just the amount of hop sludge that soaks up precious wort - from what I've read, one of the reasons for the smoothness of Younger is that the extract is smoother tasting. I know it doesn't make much sense if it's true and pure hop extract but I could have sworn I read it somewhere.

Quote:
And here is the hellish nightmare you get to clean afterwards.

Thanks for posting a picture of this. I completely forgot myself. You can see the 'shiny' bits and coating on the element and walls - that's the sticky tar-like sludge. Fun times! Time to go to the basement now and have a pint and remember how much work it was to clean. Wink

OkieDokie wrote:
Just reading through the recipe sounds like it takes some time to condition once it is made. Has anyone gotten a feel for the amount of conditioning time once kegged?


Very little. These sorts of hop forward beers are best drunk fresh. After I kegged mine it was ~2 weeks on C02 at near freezing and then put on tap.

Kal

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Fejj



Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Posts: 213
Location: North Shore, MA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man i really want to brew this.
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm all set to brew this beast in the morning. Got everything weighed out and ready to go. I can't wait to taste, drink and share it. Sounds and looks so good.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10059
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck! I just finished the first keg of two a few days ago myself and while the hope aroma's faded a bit, I still really enjoyed it.

Had a couple of brandy snifter's of it last night while watching Sam Calagione's documentary series on Discovery called "Brew Masters".... In last night's episode they had to dump $500K worth of 120minute.... the horror....

Kal

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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I brewed it. It wasn't that bad to clean up, I did skim some of the gunk of the boil that looked like slime and tiny little grease balls. I learned from reading your post that it would be easier using some PBW which I did and it came right off. Not any more difficult to brew then any other beer. can't wait to drink it. Thanks for the share, Castermmt
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10059
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't skim the grease balls! That's hop oil.

Kal

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dunnry



Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 43
Location: Strongsville, OH


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castermmt wrote:
Well, I brewed it. It wasn't that bad to clean up, I did skim some of the gunk of the boil that looked like slime and tiny little grease balls. I learned from reading your post that it would be easier using some PBW which I did and it came right off. Not any more difficult to brew then any other beer. can't wait to drink it. Thanks for the share, Castermmt


Interesting. After I brewed this I found that the leftover hop resin had the same quality as tree pitch. There was a tremendous amount of it (you can see it everywhere in my pic). It stained my hands and sponge(s) and made everything very tacky. Only after filling the kettle mostly full and circulating warm PBW was I able to get most of it off. Even then, I found a bunch stuck in the Hop Stopper on the bottom I must have missed the next time I brewed (it clogged up the stopper). A 2 day soak in PBW for the stopper seems to have removed that now.

While I wouldn't say that it was impossible to clean, it certainly was 4x more effort than any other beer I have made. Incidentally, I will be kegging mine shortly (today or so). In a couple weeks I will find out if it was worth it.

Just a note on mine: I was unhappy with my final gravity - somewhere around 1.011-3. That was with 4 re-hydrated US-05 packages and pure O2. Next time, I think I will make sure to hit it with pure O2 again after 24 hrs to really get the yeast moving. It is pretty tough to get to 1.008 with this one without a tremendous pitch and lots of O2.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10059
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dunnry wrote:
Just a note on mine: I was unhappy with my final gravity - somewhere around 1.011-3. That was with 4 re-hydrated US-05 packages and pure O2. Next time, I think I will make sure to hit it with pure O2 again after 24 hrs to really get the yeast moving. It is pretty tough to get to 1.008 with this one without a tremendous pitch and lots of O2.


I hit 1.008. 1.006 would have been even better however.

I didn't use pure O2 but used the Fizz-X for about 2 minutes at high speed, and then again about 12 hours after pitching. To do this I had to rack into two other pails as I knew it would foam up a lot (so about 3 gallons per pail when I fizz-X'ed on the second day).

Make sure your hydrometer's calibrated too, and that you're compensating for temp. You may be lower than you think.

Kal

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Fejj



Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Posts: 213
Location: North Shore, MA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you didnt hit your target FG it could be more then just a yeast issue, US-05 has a great attenuation rate so it could of been a mash temp issue. Check to see if you are actually hitting your temps throughout your mash.

Just a thought,
Jeff
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dunnry



Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 43
Location: Strongsville, OH


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fejj wrote:
IF you didnt hit your target FG it could be more then just a yeast issue, US-05 has a great attenuation rate so it could of been a mash temp issue. Check to see if you are actually hitting your temps throughout your mash.


True - however, I have mashed at that temperature before and not had any issues. My system is identical to Kal's and I have calibrated with a thermapen. My best guess is that since it was one of the first times using pure O2, I likely didn't do it correctly (not long enough). Subsequent high gravity brews have all attenuated well with the two-step oxygen addition (with pitch, +24hrs). I started using pure O2 after the drill + paddled whip wasn't cutting it for a couple 1.100+ brews. Perhaps I should combine the two next time. Smile
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Fejj



Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Posts: 213
Location: North Shore, MA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As an afterthought, how old where they packages of US-05? Also, I'm wondering if Kal rehydrates or pitches the dry yeast straight into the beer. I've read(quite a while ago) that re-hydrating dry yeast can cause certain issues due to the way the yeast is put into hibernation for the drying process. I could be wrong tbqh i cant remember the exact details.

Edit: I also found this
http://www.brewwithfermentis.com/2011/05/12/rehydrating-dry-yeast-water-or-wort/

Edit2: All kinds of good info on that page. Safale Recommends to not oxygenate after 12 hours.
http://www.brewwithfermentis.com/tips-tricks/oxygen-effects/
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dunnry



Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 43
Location: Strongsville, OH


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fejj wrote:
As an afterthought, how old where they packages of US-05? Also, I'm wondering if Kal rehydrates or pitches the dry yeast straight into the beer. I've read(quite a while ago) that re-hydrating dry yeast can cause certain issues due to the way the yeast is put into hibernation for the drying process. I could be wrong tbqh i cant remember the exact details.

Edit: I also found this
http://www.brewwithfermentis.com/2011/05/12/rehydrating-dry-yeast-water-or-wort/

Edit2: All kinds of good info on that page. Safale Recommends to not oxygenate after 12 hours.
http://www.brewwithfermentis.com/tips-tricks/oxygen-effects/


Not sure how old they were - bought them a month or two earlier and stored in fridge. This was the first time rehydrating dry yeast for me, and I specifically did it because of the book "Yeast" and the advice that up to 50% of the yeast could die without rehydration. I think I rehydrated the yeast correctly, but who knows. It is yet another factor to consider.
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