Various instruction changes done over the last 2 weeks...

[kal]

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Hi everyone,

Over the last 2 weeks I’ve been making various changes to the website. Most changes are small but added up it turned into quite a significant amount of work so I thought I'd list the changes here.

Here's a summary:

• Amazon now sells thousands of stainless fittings and tiny parts so hundreds of new links have been added to the instructions to give people more buying options. McMaster-Carr is no longer the only option for some of the hard to find items. This should help out the non-US builders for whom even forwarders will not work.
  
  
• I’m now recommending that the 1/2" NPT temperature probe be used instead of the 1/4". This avoids having to use a bushing (reducer). The 1/4" was originally used because the 1/2" NPT probe did not exist at the time. Functionally there is no advantage to one over the other.
  
  
• Added a link for a short piece of 1/2” OD stainless tubing for the HLT water input for those people that purchase their HERMS coil pre-built as the short piece is not included.
  
  
• The master parts list has been separated into sections. The list should now be easier to use.
  
  
• Made it clearer what size kettle to buy based on the batch size in the kettles (overview) instructions.
  
  
• The temperature probes are now in the build instructions before the kettle modifications. Before people were told to purchase the probes with the kettles and then were asked to modify them in later instructions. That was confusing. Now someone can build the probes in their entirety by following the temperature probe build article.
  
  
• Removed the larger M16 Metric temperature probe as an option. There was no point in mentioning it since it’s no longer available. Only the M14 probe is now available.
  
  
• I get emailed all the time why I put the MLT/HLT probes in the plumbing and not the kettle wall as done with the boil kettle. This is now explained in the temperature probe introduction and in all three kettle build articles. While I will likely still get emails about it, it now gives me a clear place from where to cut & paste my response.
  
  
• Thicker walled 7/8” OD silicone tubing is recommended over 3/4” OD for the hoses. I use 7/8” OD myself but it was not available (until now) so the instructions called for 3/4” OD since it was readily available and is what most other brewers have been using. If you follow brewing forums some will argue that 7/8” OD tubing will hold heat slightly better and kink less.
  
  
• Recommending that the wort chiller with NPT fittings already attached (new) be used. Makes building easier as it does not require compression fittings and o-rings.
  
  
• Added text to the ventilation introduction that better explains how to size a fan based on indoor gas vs. electric brewing setups. Gas ventilation requirements are considerably higher than electric, often 10 times higher, making indoor gas brewing setups difficult and costly to set up safely.
  
  
• Created a separate control panel setup article that explains how to set up the PID and timer, calibrate the temperature probes, and perform a first time auto tuning. This information was previously buried at the ends of the PID and timer wiring sections and was easily overlooked.

If there are any questions or you notice any broken links or other issues, please let me know.

Cheers,

Kal

[kal]

Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!

Hi everyone,

Over the last 2 weeks I’ve been making various changes to the website. Most changes are small but added up it turned into quite a significant amount of work so I thought I'd list the changes here.

Here's a summary:

• Amazon now sells thousands of stainless fittings and tiny parts so hundreds of new links have been added to the instructions to give people more buying options. McMaster-Carr is no longer the only option for some of the hard to find items. This should help out the non-US builders for whom even forwarders will not work.
  
  
• I’m now recommending that the 1/2" NPT temperature probe be used instead of the 1/4". This avoids having to use a bushing (reducer). The 1/4" was originally used because the 1/2" NPT probe did not exist at the time. Functionally there is no advantage to one over the other.
  
  
• Added a link for a short piece of 1/2” OD stainless tubing for the HLT water input for those people that purchase their HERMS coil pre-built as the short piece is not included.
  
  
• The master parts list has been separated into sections. The list should now be easier to use.
  
  
• Made it clearer what size kettle to buy based on the batch size in the kettles (overview) instructions.
  
  
• The temperature probes are now in the build instructions before the kettle modifications. Before people were told to purchase the probes with the kettles and then were asked to modify them in later instructions. That was confusing. Now someone can build the probes in their entirety by following the temperature probe build article.
  
  
• Removed the larger M16 Metric temperature probe as an option. There was no point in mentioning it since it’s no longer available. Only the M14 probe is now available.
  
  
• I get emailed all the time why I put the MLT/HLT probes in the plumbing and not the kettle wall as done with the boil kettle. This is now explained in the temperature probe introduction and in all three kettle build articles. While I will likely still get emails about it, it now gives me a clear place from where to cut & paste my response.
  
  
• Thicker walled 7/8” OD silicone tubing is recommended over 3/4” OD for the hoses. I use 7/8” OD myself but it was not available (until now) so the instructions called for 3/4” OD since it was readily available and is what most other brewers have been using. If you follow brewing forums some will argue that 7/8” OD tubing will hold heat slightly better and kink less.
  
  
• Recommending that the wort chiller with NPT fittings already attached (new) be used. Makes building easier as it does not require compression fittings and o-rings.
  
  
• Added text to the ventilation introduction that better explains how to size a fan based on indoor gas vs. electric brewing setups. Gas ventilation requirements are considerably higher than electric, often 10 times higher, making indoor gas brewing setups difficult and costly to set up safely.
  
  
• Created a separate control panel setup article that explains how to set up the PID and timer, calibrate the temperature probes, and perform a first time auto tuning. This information was previously buried at the ends of the PID and timer wiring sections and was easily overlooked.

If there are any questions or you notice any broken links or other issues, please let me know.

Cheers,

Kal