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SSR overheating, getting stuck "on".

 
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spaceship




Joined: 31 Jul 2014
Posts: 2



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:41 pm    Post subject: SSR overheating, getting stuck "on". Reply with quote


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Building my control panel and upon testing the ssr works fine, switching the element on and off when the PID cycles on or off, but when bringing up temp in the HLT, where the heating element is constantly on for some time, my SSR and heat sink are getting very hot (too hot to touch) and eventually when the set temp is reached and PID switches off, the element stays on, the SSR is stuck on. turning the power off and letting the SSR cool down it returns to normal function. If I operate it with a fan pointed at the heat sink to keep it cool it works fine.

I bought a cheap Fotek SSR with a small heat sink, photo attatched. I have seen other builds using these smaller heat sinks, so my question is do they work well enough usually? Is my problem with the "cheap" SSR, or are these smaller heat sinks really not sufficient.

Heating element is 5500W.



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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11123
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never found those sized heat sinks large enough for 5500W without some sort of fan (which I didn't want in order to keep my control panel water resistant/industrial/outdoor proof).

Do you have this heatsink in an enclosed space like inside an enclosure? That would only make it worse and heat up everything else in the enclosure, shortening the lifespan of the other items too. If it is in a small enclosed space, I would put it outside the enclosure and try without a fan first. If it's already outside the enclosure then adding a fan should work if you're ok with it not being water resistant/industrial/outdoor proof. If you don't want to compromise water resistance, a larger heatsink such as this one outside the enclosure is your best option: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/custom-heat-sink

Good luck!

Kal

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ChukInaTruk




Joined: 23 Jan 2014
Posts: 63
Location: Chicago, IL West burbs


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:39 am    Post subject: Re: SSR overheating, getting stuck "on". Reply with quote

spaceship wrote:
Building my control panel and upon testing the ssr works fine, switching the element on and off when the PID cycles on or off, but when bringing up temp in the HLT, where the heating element is constantly on for some time, my SSR and heat sink are getting very hot (too hot to touch) and eventually when the set temp is reached and PID switches off, the element stays on, the SSR is stuck on. turning the power off and letting the SSR cool down it returns to normal function. If I operate it with a fan pointed at the heat sink to keep it cool it works fine.

I bought a cheap Fotek SSR with a small heat sink, photo attatched. I have seen other builds using these smaller heat sinks, so my question is do they work well enough usually? Is my problem with the "cheap" SSR, or are these smaller heat sinks really not sufficient.

Heating element is 5500W.


I agree with Kal on this as usual, heat displacement is all about surface area, those small heatsinks do not displace enough heat for how many amps you're pushing, you need a large heatsink, or a fan to cool the small ones that you have. I have seen these work on these style of enclosures, I have attached a YouTube video of a guy that has done just that. Notice he has a fan right next to both of his Heat sinks. Again I agree with Kal, just get a bigger heatsink and this solves the problem without the bother of a fan....

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RtRK8vQVcfM

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James Edmonton




Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 124
Location: Edmonton, AB

Drinking: West Coast Dry Hopped IPA

Working on: Session Ale


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run the smaller 2500 watt elements and the heat sinks you are showing work fine for that wattage of elements. I ran mine out the top of the box - which isn't the greatest aesthetic but it works. They get warm to the touch but that is it. I don't need a fan, but if I mounted them in the box (the original plan) a fan would be a good idea. At some point, I will probably change the heat sinks to something that has a lower profile and looks better.

As Kal notes, he probably has more heat sink that he needs, but in this case cooler is always better and should extend the life of the SSRs.
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foomench




Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 704
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a question related to these smaller heatsinks and placement. I'm going to use one for my 120V, 1500 watt element. Right now the heatsink is attached directly to the SSR, as I had thought of putting it inside the box. But I already decided it needed to be external. Now the question is:
A) Do I cut a hole in my metal box and just poke the heatsink through, still attached to the SSR, or
B) Do I attach the SSR to the inside of the metal box, and put the heatsink on the outside, directly over the SSR?
Kal's approach is A. But with my little heatsink, I'm wondering how well I'll be able to seal it, since I don't have the borders of Kal's oversize heatsink to run silicon sealant around. B will be much easier, but essentially makes the entire enclosure part of the heatsink, and perhaps diminishes the usefulness of the actual heatsink as it is no longer directly coupled to the SSR.

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Kevin59




Joined: 03 Aug 2012
Posts: 1047
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale

Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

foomench wrote:
Here's a question related to these smaller heatsinks and placement. I'm going to use one for my 120V, 1500 watt element. Right now the heatsink is attached directly to the SSR, as I had thought of putting it inside the box. But I already decided it needed to be external. Now the question is:
A) Do I cut a hole in my metal box and just poke the heatsink through, still attached to the SSR, or
B) Do I attach the SSR to the inside of the metal box, and put the heatsink on the outside, directly over the SSR?
Kal's approach is A. But with my little heatsink, I'm wondering how well I'll be able to seal it, since I don't have the borders of Kal's oversize heatsink to run silicon sealant around. B will be much easier, but essentially makes the entire enclosure part of the heatsink, and perhaps diminishes the usefulness of the actual heatsink as it is no longer directly coupled to the SSR.


Auber has this smaller heatsink that's drilled and tapped for M4x0.7 machine screws, both for attaching to a box, and for attaching the SSR that might work better than that other type of heatsink...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=244

Having just used it I'd say it would work much better as far as being able to seal it nicely to metal box.

I definitely wouldn't have the metal box itself between the heatsink and the SSR as I would expect that would largely nullify the effectiveness of the heatsink.
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James Edmonton




Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 124
Location: Edmonton, AB

Drinking: West Coast Dry Hopped IPA

Working on: Session Ale


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mounted mine through the top like this. Essentially you make a hole (square) that is a wide as the heatsink but not as deep as the mounting plate. drill two holes for the mounting screws. You can then place the heatsink into the case from the top by working it back and forth. Then you attach the SSR to the heatsink and work it back out to the mounting plate and add the screws. From the inside out you end up with the SSR-heatsink-case configuration. You can then caulk the edges to seal it all up. I haven't caulked mine yet as I was waiting to see about performance before I committed to the final placement. It is located where there is a very remote possibility of spray now, but I will caulk it soon (as I am hope to move it closer soon).

The pictures should help explain it. It is not as nice as a single larger heatsink, but it is very functional. I have a 5 gal system (converted from propane) so I only use 2500 watt 240v elements, which work fine. The heat sinks (even when both elements are running) only get warm.

In the case of a single 120v 1500 watt element you might be fine mounting it inside as it should not get very warm. You could start there and see what happens and move it outside of it looks like it will be a problem.



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foomench




Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 704
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks James for the explanation and photos. I think I'm going to try something like your approach this first. Then I might resort to the heatsink that Kevin linked. I had already bookmarked that one from the simple controller thread. Kal instructions mention cutting two holes for heatsinks like these, but then his instructions focus on the larger heatsink for actually mounting things. Since that's what he did, this is understandable. It's helpful to have the rest of the story for the smaller dual heatsink option.
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Kazumichan




Joined: 07 May 2014
Posts: 177
Location: Cincinnati Ohio area

Working on: Belgium golden, Dubbel, and imperial red


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone is interested, I have a large heatsink that would work for two SSR's. It just needs drilled and tapped for them. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27485
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TheMadZymurgist




Joined: 16 Oct 2014
Posts: 6
Location: Southern Indiana


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to ask the painfully obvious and silly question here. I didn't see any mention of heat sink compound in your description of how you mounted these. You did use some, right?
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foomench




Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 704
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what spaceship did, but I think I my heatsink came with some thermal compound. If not, I used some CPU cooler stuff like Arctic Silver. I know I used something.
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huaco




Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1506
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheMadZymurgist wrote:
I'm going to ask the painfully obvious and silly question here. I didn't see any mention of heat sink compound in your description of how you mounted these. You did use some, right?


By looking at IMG_2161 (the last image) there appears to be some compound forced out along the edges of the SSR's...
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foomench




Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 704
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huaco wrote:
By looking at IMG_2161 (the last image) there appears to be some compound forced out along the edges of the SSR's...
But that is James' picture, not spaceship who started the thread.
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huaco




Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1506
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

foomench wrote:
huaco wrote:
By looking at IMG_2161 (the last image) there appears to be some compound forced out along the edges of the SSR's...
But that is James' picture, not spaceship who started the thread.


Haha! FACEPALM!!!!!!

Doh! Embarassed
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James Edmonton




Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 124
Location: Edmonton, AB

Drinking: West Coast Dry Hopped IPA

Working on: Session Ale


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I did use thermal compound - if you don't you seriously compromise the effectiveness of the heatsink. I don't know what Spaceship decided to do, but I hope he uses thermal compound as well! Smile
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Sketchin




Joined: 08 Jan 2013
Posts: 169
Location: Calgary


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

foomench wrote:
Here's a question related to these smaller heatsinks and placement. I'm going to use one for my 120V, 1500 watt element. Right now the heatsink is attached directly to the SSR, as I had thought of putting it inside the box. But I already decided it needed to be external. Now the question is:
A) Do I cut a hole in my metal box and just poke the heatsink through, still attached to the SSR, or
B) Do I attach the SSR to the inside of the metal box, and put the heatsink on the outside, directly over the SSR?
Kal's approach is A. But with my little heatsink, I'm wondering how well I'll be able to seal it, since I don't have the borders of Kal's oversize heatsink to run silicon sealant around. B will be much easier, but essentially makes the entire enclosure part of the heatsink, and perhaps diminishes the usefulness of the actual heatsink as it is no longer directly coupled to the SSR.


I have 4500W elements with 90Amp SSR's and I mounted them like step B. Never had a problem, SSR's stay relatively cool as they are made to handle twice as much current as they are designed for.

FWIW, I would highly recommend buying 90A SSR's over the recommended 45A (or is it 40A?). The cost difference is negligible and it allows you to run your SSR's at about 40% of their max power.
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foomench




Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 704
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sketchin wrote:
FWIW, I would highly recommend buying 90A SSR's over the recommended 45A (or is it 40A?). The cost difference is negligible and it allows you to run your SSR's at about 40% of their max power.
I'm only going to be running 12.5 amps.
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