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PID wiring
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 10:10 pm    Post subject: PID wiring Reply with quote


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I bought a Mypin TA4 off eBay to save some $$. I also bought a Rtd (three wire) probe from Auberins. I can't seem to figure out how to wire the RTD. Everything else is fine but I can't get the probe to work. I'm not a wiring genius and the wiring schematics that come with the PID seem a little odd. Anyone successfully do this? Got a photo of your wiring? Please help.

The Auberins rtd probe has two red wires and one white.
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the pid, wire the white wire to #7 and the two reds to 8 & 9. But on the probe input solder the white wire to the number 2 output and the two reds to 1 & 2.
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, ill give it a go. Thanks for help. I'll let you know how I make out.
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry just to clarify. I will be going from ta4 to the female Rtd socket which will
Be on my control panel. I will run the whit tail from #7 and solder
On the #3 pin. The reds will go from #8 & 9 and get soldered to pin 1 and 2 on the socket. I will do the same thing on the mail plug end at the end of the Rtd, but it doesn't matter which red goes where. Does this sound right?
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry typing error on my last post. white wire form #7 on pid to #2 on the socket, then one of the red wires form #8 on the pid to #1 on the socket and the other #9 to #3.

also make sure you tell the pid controller you are using Rtd probes. it makes a difference. should show you in the manual.
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The probe works great but now that it is working I can see that my ssr with outlet isn't working properly. Here is how I have it wire, please help. Main power in. Hit wire to a pig tail which I sent one wire to #1 on pid. I sent the other wire to #1 on the ssr. I then went from #2 on ssr to the hot side of outlet. With the neutral, I went from main chord to #2 on pid and then I came back off #2 to white side of outlet. I plug a
Light into the outlet to see how it works. I sent pid to 64. Probe registered correct temp of 75 but still power to outlet. The light kind of pulses as the ssr blinks but it is not killing power to the outlet like it should since I am above temp. Any thoughts? I am running 110v only. Thank you so much.
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you auto tune the pid yet?
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not. I did push the at button so the light came on but that is it. Does it take awhile? These instructions at not for me, clearly. Does my wiring sound right? I will turn auto tune on an leave it for awhile. Should the probe be plugged in during auto tune?
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I first plug in my controller I put the probe in which reads 75. In have the temp set to 69. I plug my light into the outlet i have wired to ssr and the light is on. I move the set temp to 85 and hold the light over the probe to heat it up and the light pulses until it gets to temperature then the light stops
Pulsing and stays on.
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do what you would do on a normal brew day. Set to auto tune and your pid will set its own algorithms for your setup. Sounds like everything is working like it should otherwise.
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But if the PID is to temp shouldn't the outlet power be off?
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's trying to maintain that temp due to heat loss. Raise the temp up, let the elements heat the water and let the pid learn your system. This might take a couple of sessions. But the auto tune feature should correct this issue.
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I'll give it a dry run and see What happens. Thanks for your help.
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also raising the temp real fast might be messing things up as well.
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have AT on, the kettle set to 120 and the element doesn't shut off. The out1 light is on, the out2/al2 light is on and the AT light is on. I don't have any alarms on my system. Thoughts?
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how is your PID and SSR wired? should be the #3 output on your PID to the negative side of the SSR an #4 output on the PID to the positive side of the SSR. Make sure the polarity is correct on that connection. if you have them backwards the element will not shut off correctly.
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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is how I have it. This is the wiring set-up mentioned
The probe works great but now that it is working I can see that my ssr with outlet isn't working properly. Here is how I have it wire, please help. Main power in. Hit wire to a pig tail which I sent one wire to #1 on pid. I sent the other wire to #1 on the ssr. I then went from #2 on ssr to the hot side of outlet. With the neutral, I went from main chord to #2 on pid and then I came back off #2 to white side of outlet. I plug a
Light into the outlet to see how it works. I sent pid to 64. Probe registered correct temp of 75 but still power to outlet. The light kind of pulses as the ssr blinks but it is not killing power to the outlet like it should since I am above temp. Any thoughts? I am running 110v only. Thank you so much.

I may just go to a manual switch and just use it as temp display. The ssr was super hot after 15 minutes as well. Is there away to use this unit with out the ssr?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would be easier to debug if you had a schematic/picture. Describing electrical circuits with words just doesn't work. Wink

Shadk wrote:
The ssr was super hot after 15 minutes as well.

How about the heat sink? The heat sink should be hot, which means it's doing its job.
Did you use some (not too much) heat sink compound between the two? How big's the heat sink? Got a picture?

Quote:
Is there away to use this unit with out the ssr?

No. Not if you want to drive an electrical element.

Kal

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Shadk




Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 11



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does my wiring sound right?
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kckarch




Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

like kal said make sure that you have some heat sink compound between the SSR and the heat sink. when the SSR get too hot they fail closed, which means they will not turn off no matter what the pid tells it to do.
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