I want to apologies for my English in advance because I'm French! So, here's my problem. My control panel was made on the model of this web site. I made the same panel as you guys but with no voltmeter. So, everything is fine on my control panel, when I lunch it pumps working and PID working well but not my heating element. My control panel was built with 3 Packard contactor C230B, 1 for main and the other two for boil and HLT. I have SSR 24-480V AC to 3-32VDC Output 40A Rectangle Single Phase SSR Solid State Relay. So, when I try to fire up my heating element everything looks alright because the light is lighting up, there is SSR red dot too, but the element goes very low on heating and take a few minutes to just go up 1 degree. So, I begin to follow the current with my voltmeter and what I find is at the main contactor where the power goes first there is only 120 v and I'm pretty sure I'm supposed to have 240 V. And if I follow till my element it's all 120 V. I checked everything again but didn't find anything... I begin to be helpless. If you please can help me Does my contactor really support 240 V ? Is there a problem with my dryer outlet (I’m not able to test the volt is the outlet with my voltmeter)? That's all the information I can think of now. If you want more, I will be pleased to give you more information. And I want to thank you all in advance for taking your time to read this and help me. I want to fire up this baby's soon please
Ps. My heating element are Camco 5500W,240VScrew In Element ULWD LimeLife Camco model 2965 Ripple Foldback.
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 9931 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 6:40 pm Post subject:
Welcome to the forum!
You are correct: You should be seeing 240V at the heating elements, not 120V. 120V will only give you 1/4 the power which still works but will take 4 times longer to heat. You've possibly mis-wired something somewhere, and are likely using the NEUTRAL and one of the HOT lines to power the heating elements instead of both HOT lines. If could be that your wall outlet is mis-wired too. You can measure that to check to see if you get 240V across the two HOT lines. In fact, you mention that you're seeing 120V across the two HOT lines right now at the element. I would continue to measure backwards until you get to the wall socket to see were the issue is.
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