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Powering up control panel along the way

 
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datlan




Joined: 09 Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Location: Portland, OR


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:42 pm    Post subject: Powering up control panel along the way Reply with quote


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I just started wiring my control panel today. Along the way, I'd like to be able to verify I'm doing things correctly rather than wait until the end and find out that I didn't something wrong all the way back in step #1.

I know next to nothing about wiring, so I am being very careful in following Kal's instructions. My question is: is there any harm in firing up the the control panel after each step (for example, "Step 5: Wire up Power", "Step 6: Wire up Ground", "Step 7: Wire up volt and amp meters") or do I need to wait until it is complete? If I can, is there anything in particular I need to be careful of?

Thanks!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi!

Funny you should mention this as I originally wanted to provide complete details on how to test along the way... that didn't seem easily do-able so I skipped it.

Looking back now over the wiring diagrams quickly it seems possible:

After wiring up the ground you can go back and test the power input switch, then volt/amp meters, then the pumps, then the temp probes on the PIDs as well as the timer and alarms, and finally the heating elements.

Each of the steps is presented systematically so it certainly seems possible. The only one I'd be careful with is the first once since the ground isn't wired in yet. Do the power input and the ground together first, then test the power input switch.

Good luck!

I did test my setup like this systematically when I built it though the order was likely different.

EDIT: One thing that can't be easily tested without most of it wired is the safe start interlock since it affects the power input, the pumps, and the heating elements.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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bcraun




Joined: 28 Nov 2011
Posts: 28



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:57 am    Post subject: Re: Powering up control panel along the way Reply with quote

datlan wrote:
I just started wiring my control panel today. Along the way, I'd like to be able to verify I'm doing things correctly rather than wait until the end and find out that I didn't something wrong all the way back in step #1.

I know next to nothing about wiring, so I am being very careful in following Kal's instructions. My question is: is there any harm in firing up the the control panel after each step (for example, "Step 5: Wire up Power", "Step 6: Wire up Ground", "Step 7: Wire up volt and amp meters") or do I need to wait until it is complete? If I can, is there anything in particular I need to be careful of?

Thanks!


Although most of the steps can be verified using your multimeter, it would be nice if there were some post-install notes for each step that document the expected results one should see. Obviously, some of the steps will result in visible results (LEDs, Amp and Volt meters, PIDs, etc.), but some of the steps are only verifiable using a multimeter. Just speaking for myself, I would not wait until the end of the build to observe the results. Too many things can go wrong, especially if you are not experienced with mains voltages and wiring of such components. I would try and test as many things as possible prior to moving from step to step. At best, it just works, worst case, you risk destroying some of the components, or yourself. Try to understand the purpose for each component and how it fits into the overall design of the panel. This will go a long way, especially in helping you diagnose any problems that might arise during the build, or after.

Just my $0.02.

-bill
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datlan




Joined: 09 Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Location: Portland, OR


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do want to understand it - that's why I chose to build the panel rather than just buying it pre-built. Post-install steps would be nice, but I understand that it would have added more work (there's already a lot of detail in the instructions!) I have a multimeter, but haven't used it for anything else but working on an old VW, so I'll have to read up on when and how to use it in this context.

From Kal's response, it sounds like there will be quite a few checkpoints that I can use that will be visual indicators of whether things are correct and working, though. I was able to turn the key and witness the blue light shine yesterday - very satisfying!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EDIT: These instructions have moved here:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25460

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:15 am; edited 3 times in total
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datlan




Joined: 09 Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Location: Portland, OR


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, I didn't expect such explicit instructions. Thanks a lot, Kal!
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Holter




Joined: 07 Oct 2011
Posts: 221
Location: Los Angeles, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow this is awesome. Thanks Kal.
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datlan




Joined: 09 Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Location: Portland, OR


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal - above you write,

kal wrote:

2. After wiring up the volt and amp meters (step 7) turning the power key switch should make the voltmeter display approximately "240" and the amp approximately "00.0" or "00.1".


Over here you said

kal wrote:

Voltage is a differential: The difference of potential between two spots. So to get any reading both sides have to be connected to something. If one side is floating (not connected), you get zero volts.


Since the voltmeter is hooked up to the hot bus and the boil relay (which is not hooked up to anything else yet if following your instructions in order), will we really see 240 on the voltmeter at this point?
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g8tors




Joined: 05 Oct 2011
Posts: 211



PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure if it should read 240 right after you have wired the volt meter but I can tell you that I had mine wired wrong. I didn't find this out until I had everything wired and my volt meter was still reading zero. The problem I had with mine is my volt meter came with a cable that had five wires. The middle wire had a bunch of exes on it so I assumed that was the wire not used. I was wrong. After looking at the wiring diagram I was able to determine which wire was the extra and after wired properly the volt meter worked.

Scott
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

datlan wrote:
Kal - above you write,

kal wrote:

2. After wiring up the volt and amp meters (step 7) turning the power key switch should make the voltmeter display approximately "240" and the amp approximately "00.0" or "00.1".


Over here you said

kal wrote:

Voltage is a differential: The difference of potential between two spots. So to get any reading both sides have to be connected to something. If one side is floating (not connected), you get zero volts.


Since the voltmeter is hooked up to the hot bus and the boil relay (which is not hooked up to anything else yet if following your instructions in order), will we really see 240 on the voltmeter at this point?


Good point. You would not. I missed that. I'll update the list above.

Kal

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rcrabb22




Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 462
Location: Illinois


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

May I suggest plugging in a lamp or some other simple 120V unit in place of the pumps when testing the pump wiring step.

EDIT:

Oh shoot I forgot the plug and twist lock male/female connectors are used for the pumps makes plugging in a simple appliance more difficult
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been asked a few times so I thought I'd make a sticky about testing as you build here:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25460

If anyone has any further questions about this please post there. I'm going to lock this thread.

Kal

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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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