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datlan
Joined: 09 Jan 2011 Posts: 50 Location: Portland, OR
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:42 pm Post subject: Powering up control panel along the way |
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I just started wiring my control panel today. Along the way, I'd like to be able to verify I'm doing things correctly rather than wait until the end and find out that I didn't something wrong all the way back in step #1.
I know next to nothing about wiring, so I am being very careful in following Kal's instructions. My question is: is there any harm in firing up the the control panel after each step (for example, "Step 5: Wire up Power", "Step 6: Wire up Ground", "Step 7: Wire up volt and amp meters") or do I need to wait until it is complete? If I can, is there anything in particular I need to be careful of?
Thanks!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:55 am Post subject: |
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Hi!
Funny you should mention this as I originally wanted to provide complete details on how to test along the way... that didn't seem easily do-able so I skipped it.
Looking back now over the wiring diagrams quickly it seems possible:
After wiring up the ground you can go back and test the power input switch, then volt/amp meters, then the pumps, then the temp probes on the PIDs as well as the timer and alarms, and finally the heating elements.
Each of the steps is presented systematically so it certainly seems possible. The only one I'd be careful with is the first once since the ground isn't wired in yet. Do the power input and the ground together first, then test the power input switch.
Good luck!
I did test my setup like this systematically when I built it though the order was likely different.
EDIT: One thing that can't be easily tested without most of it wired is the safe start interlock since it affects the power input, the pumps, and the heating elements.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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bcraun
Joined: 28 Nov 2011 Posts: 28
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:57 am Post subject: Re: Powering up control panel along the way |
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datlan wrote: | I just started wiring my control panel today. Along the way, I'd like to be able to verify I'm doing things correctly rather than wait until the end and find out that I didn't something wrong all the way back in step #1.
I know next to nothing about wiring, so I am being very careful in following Kal's instructions. My question is: is there any harm in firing up the the control panel after each step (for example, "Step 5: Wire up Power", "Step 6: Wire up Ground", "Step 7: Wire up volt and amp meters") or do I need to wait until it is complete? If I can, is there anything in particular I need to be careful of?
Thanks! |
Although most of the steps can be verified using your multimeter, it would be nice if there were some post-install notes for each step that document the expected results one should see. Obviously, some of the steps will result in visible results (LEDs, Amp and Volt meters, PIDs, etc.), but some of the steps are only verifiable using a multimeter. Just speaking for myself, I would not wait until the end of the build to observe the results. Too many things can go wrong, especially if you are not experienced with mains voltages and wiring of such components. I would try and test as many things as possible prior to moving from step to step. At best, it just works, worst case, you risk destroying some of the components, or yourself. Try to understand the purpose for each component and how it fits into the overall design of the panel. This will go a long way, especially in helping you diagnose any problems that might arise during the build, or after.
Just my $0.02.
-bill
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datlan
Joined: 09 Jan 2011 Posts: 50 Location: Portland, OR
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Link Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:53 am Post subject: |
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I do want to understand it - that's why I chose to build the panel rather than just buying it pre-built. Post-install steps would be nice, but I understand that it would have added more work (there's already a lot of detail in the instructions!) I have a multimeter, but haven't used it for anything else but working on an old VW, so I'll have to read up on when and how to use it in this context.
From Kal's response, it sounds like there will be quite a few checkpoints that I can use that will be visual indicators of whether things are correct and working, though. I was able to turn the key and witness the blue light shine yesterday - very satisfying!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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datlan
Joined: 09 Jan 2011 Posts: 50 Location: Portland, OR
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Link Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, I didn't expect such explicit instructions. Thanks a lot, Kal!
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Holter
Joined: 07 Oct 2011 Posts: 221 Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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Link Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 6:52 am Post subject: |
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Wow this is awesome. Thanks Kal.
_________________ Holter
LABeerFan.com
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datlan
Joined: 09 Jan 2011 Posts: 50 Location: Portland, OR
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:30 am Post subject: |
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Kal - above you write,
kal wrote: |
2. After wiring up the volt and amp meters (step 7) turning the power key switch should make the voltmeter display approximately "240" and the amp approximately "00.0" or "00.1".
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Over here you said
kal wrote: |
Voltage is a differential: The difference of potential between two spots. So to get any reading both sides have to be connected to something. If one side is floating (not connected), you get zero volts.
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Since the voltmeter is hooked up to the hot bus and the boil relay (which is not hooked up to anything else yet if following your instructions in order), will we really see 240 on the voltmeter at this point?
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:46 am Post subject: |
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I'm not sure if it should read 240 right after you have wired the volt meter but I can tell you that I had mine wired wrong. I didn't find this out until I had everything wired and my volt meter was still reading zero. The problem I had with mine is my volt meter came with a cable that had five wires. The middle wire had a bunch of exes on it so I assumed that was the wire not used. I was wrong. After looking at the wiring diagram I was able to determine which wire was the extra and after wired properly the volt meter worked.
Scott
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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datlan wrote: | Kal - above you write,
kal wrote: |
2. After wiring up the volt and amp meters (step 7) turning the power key switch should make the voltmeter display approximately "240" and the amp approximately "00.0" or "00.1".
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Over here you said
kal wrote: |
Voltage is a differential: The difference of potential between two spots. So to get any reading both sides have to be connected to something. If one side is floating (not connected), you get zero volts.
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Since the voltmeter is hooked up to the hot bus and the boil relay (which is not hooked up to anything else yet if following your instructions in order), will we really see 240 on the voltmeter at this point? |
Good point. You would not. I missed that. I'll update the list above.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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rcrabb22
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 462 Location: Illinois
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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May I suggest plugging in a lamp or some other simple 120V unit in place of the pumps when testing the pump wiring step.
EDIT:
Oh shoot I forgot the plug and twist lock male/female connectors are used for the pumps makes plugging in a simple appliance more difficult
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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