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HOW TO: Testing your control panel / Troubleshooting
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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I'm assuming you're using the PIDs from one of our kits. Flashing orAL means the PID is unable to communicate with the temperature probe. I would double check your temp probe settings (make sure the temp probe type is set properly) and also check the 3 wires going from the PID to the XLR receptacles. If you built your own temp probe cables check that wiring too. Good luck!

Kal

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LMartin



Joined: 25 Dec 2012
Posts: 22
Location: Brookfield, WI

Drinking: Brown Shugga, Bridgeburner, Accidental Amber, Electric IPA

Working on: Red IPA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 1:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I incorrectly wired the temperature probes, but have corrected the problem. Thanks again for the help Kal.

Lynn
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akbull24



Joined: 30 Jul 2018
Posts: 4
Location: Alaska


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 1:50 am    Post subject: SSR's closed all the time... Reply with quote

Just finished wiring up my 80amp SSR's and did some testing. From what I can tell, they are closed at all times that they have 120V circuit running to one on the output terminals. A continuity test tells me that when there is no power to one of the output terminals the SSR is opening and closing as commanded by the PID. As far as I can tell, when 120v is applied to one of the output terminals it is causing the SSR's to close, irregardless of the PID command (same scenario if LED light on SSR is on or off). I am confident that it is something I have done in my wiring or something to cause this, as I had ordered a spare SSR (three total) and all are doing the same thing. I also tested PID output and it is right on (12VDC), and the light turns on and off as it should. Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong or other tests I can run to try to figure out what is going on? Thanks!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LMartin wrote:
I incorrectly wired the temperature probes, but have corrected the problem. Thanks again for the help Kal.

Glad to hear you figured it out Lynn!

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 1:58 am    Post subject: Re: SSR's closed all the time... Reply with quote

akbull24 wrote:
Just finished wiring up my 80amp SSR's and did some testing. From what I can tell, they are closed at all times that they have 120V circuit running to one on the output terminals. A continuity test tells me that when there is no power to one of the output terminals the SSR is opening and closing as commanded by the PID. As far as I can tell, when 120v is applied to one of the output terminals it is causing the SSR's to close, irregardless of the PID command (same scenario if LED light on SSR is on or off). I am confident that it is something I have done in my wiring or something to cause this, as I had ordered a spare SSR (three total) and all are doing the same thing. I also tested PID output and it is right on (12VDC), and the light turns on and off as it should. Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong or other tests I can run to try to figure out what is going on? Thanks!

Hi! You can't do continuity tests or measure voltage on SSRs as they have voltage/current characteristics of semiconductors rather than mechanical relays. Because of this it's normal to always see voltage on the output due to their design. See the FAQ in the first post of this thread for complete details, specifically the section "I'm measuring voltage at the output of the SSR even though the SSR is supposed to be off! Is it broken?".

If you're having problems with the elements firing, see the section "My heating element is not firing at all! (or firing continuously)". It'll walk you through step by step.

Welcome to the forum!

Kal

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akbull24



Joined: 30 Jul 2018
Posts: 4
Location: Alaska


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal!
I was under the impression the voltage you might see would amount to the “leak through” voltage amount, not full phase like I was seeing, after your reply and some additional research I am thinking all is normal! Thanks so much!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problems! Yes, it's a bit confusing... it's the nature of semiconductors and how they work. I'm sure it's likely normal what you're seeing. Good luck!

Kal

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Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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