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HOW TO: Testing your control panel / Troubleshooting
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Added a new hint:

Quote:
One of my switches works backwards! It's on when it should be off, and off when it should be on.
Switches use either NO or NC contactors (or both). Make sure to use the correct ones following our wiring guides. If you are sure the correct ones are being used, reverse the position on the switch. For example, if the switch has the correct contactor installed on the left side and the switch is working backwards, install the contactor on the right. Ignore the 1/2/3/4 numbers printed on the contactors. Contactors are not polarized (there is no in or out connection points) so it doesn't matter which side of the contactor is used when wiring.


Kal

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Will_D



Joined: 21 Oct 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Baton Rouge, La


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I built my own panel from parts that I got myself (I have a friend at an electrical supply store). I brewed about 5 batches and everything worked just fine. On my last batch I had to turn on/off my HLT element to keep it at temperature. The element will fire and heat my water to strike temp but it won't turn off. I have auto tuned it since then and even during auto tune it keeps firing the element, it got to 185 when the set point was 152. The PID (Auber-2352) light stays on like it should be firing the element, when it clearly shouldn't. The yellow light also stays on. Any tips or things I can try to fix this problem? Thanks for any help.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will_D wrote:
I have auto tuned it since then and even during auto tune it keeps firing the element, it got to 185 when the set point was 152. The PID (Auber-2352) light stays on like it should be firing the element, when it clearly shouldn't.

If you're in automatic mode (confirmed by the A/M light) and the PID keeps firing even when it reaches and surpasses, the set point, then the PID is defective and needs to be probably needs to be replaced.

Kal

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Will_D



Joined: 21 Oct 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Baton Rouge, La


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, that's not what I wanted to hear. I guess I'll be contacting Auber Ins. tomorrow.
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Will_D



Joined: 21 Oct 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Baton Rouge, La


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And thanks for the quick response Kal.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While it's a long shot, you can confirm/try resetting all the settings to the default values first and then only changing the ones we outline in our setup instructions here: www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup

Maybe there's an off chance that somehow the P/I/D settings got changed somehow such that it over or undershoots like crazy (a heavily dampened system). Unlikely, but should be a quick to check.

I mentioned earlier to also make sure you're truly in auto mode and not manual as there's a way to be in manual but have the display appear to be in auto - that can trip some people up. If set right per our instructions the HLT should only allow AUTO mode (not manual) however.

The boil PID can do both and if programmed with the correct settings it will work in both AUTOMATIC and MANUAL modes. Press the "A/M" button until the "A-M" light is on, meaning that the PID is in MANUAL mode. Press the UP/DOWN buttons on the Boil Element PID until the lower green SV number reads "M 100". (If the "M" is not displayed press the SET button to switch the display mode). This will tell the BOIL SSR to run 100% of the time.

Kal

Kal

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Will_D



Joined: 21 Oct 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Baton Rouge, La


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've triple checked every setting, all are like they should be. And it's in auto. I'm going to get with Auber tomorrow and see if they can walk me thru a quick fix, but I'm not real confident. Thanks again for the help.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup - sounds like there's nothing else to do but replace it.

Kal

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Will_D



Joined: 21 Oct 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Baton Rouge, La


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally had some time to fool around with it again last night and I swapped the HLT PID with the Mash Tun PID and have the same problem. I set all the settings like instructed in the set up guide and it still won't turn the element off. The light on the PID that indicates it should be firing the element does go off, but the yellow I indicator light stays on and the element continues to fire. Could I have a bad SSR?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will_D wrote:
I finally had some time to fool around with it again last night and I swapped the HLT PID with the Mash Tun PID and have the same problem. I set all the settings like instructed in the set up guide and it still won't turn the element off. The light on the PID that indicates it should be firing the element does go off, but the yellow I indicator light stays on and the element continues to fire. Could I have a bad SSR?

Take a look at the section of the first post in this thread called "My heating element is not firing at all! (or firing continuously)" for a step by step walkthrough to determine where the problem is. It could be the SSR, could be incorrect wiring, and could be operator error too.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Added a new tip:

Quote:
The electrical panel GFI breaker trips as soon as I plug in the panel!
If the GFI breaker trips as soon as you plug in the panel, the GFI breaker may be wired incorrectly. This is especially true if using a panel that has been pre-assembled by us as they are all tested under load for at least one hour. Mis-wired GFI breakers is very common, even by licenced electricians. Check that the GFI breaker NEUTRAL wire (white) coming from the wall outlet is connected to the breaker NEUTRAL pole and that the white pigtail wire from the GFI breaker is connected to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel. What is often done incorrectly is that the NEUTRAL wire (white) coming from the wall outlet is connected directly to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel with the pigtail. More information

Posting this because we just had another case of troubleshooting a pre-built panel that was tripping the GFI breaker because a licenced electrician wired it incorrectly (even the electrician called out to inspect insisted it was done correctly, but it was not: The wall outlet neutral was incorrectly connected to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel).

Kal

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cmkopp11



Joined: 26 Jan 2018
Posts: 19
Location: San Diego


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the timer supposed to continually count down no matter what? I tried pressing e and p together to reset and that didn't work. Am I doing something wrong or did I miss a connection. I triple checked everything and all continuity checks were good. Only issue I'm having is the timer operation.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cmkopp11 wrote:
Is the timer supposed to continually count down no matter what?.


Correct. From the instructions: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12

’We have it wired such that once the time is set it starts to count down immediately, so there is no need for a separate start/stop switch.

It's also not possible to 'pause' any of the brewing processes like mashing or boiling once they start, so the concept of being able to start/stop the timer is illogical in most brewing operations. After 2 years of use we've never found a reason to want one.’


Kal

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cmkopp11



Joined: 26 Jan 2018
Posts: 19
Location: San Diego


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reading caught me again... lol

Well other then that, everything seems to be working just fine. Will start a CIP cycle later to test pumps and elements.

Thanks again Kal!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You’re welcome - good luck!

Kal

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zimmekt



Joined: 23 Dec 2015
Posts: 9
Location: Lakewood, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:05 pm    Post subject: Amp Meter/Power Supply Reply with quote

During initial power up of my DIY kit panel I got ahead of myself and didn't test the power supply voltage heading to the amp meter prior to connecting it. It started getting hot and smelled hot. I powered down and disconnect and started to try and meter down the power output coming out of the power supply for the amp meter.

During this I was measuring roughly 24 volts coming out of the transformer into the power supply and 24 coming back out. No matter which direction I turned the adjustment screw I was unable to get the voltage to drop at all. While fiddling around and trying to get the voltage into the correct range the power supply started smoking and a diode on it became discolored. I believe I need to order both a new power supply and amp meter. Do you know of any issues with bad power supplies or have any guesses as to what might be mis-wired to cause this?

Also, am I good to continue troubleshooting the rest of the panel operation without a amp meter. It doesn't appear any other component is drawing information from the amp meter. I assume it is just there for monitoring purposes rather than any critical operating information.

Thanks for any help.

Kyle
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Amp Meter/Power Supply Reply with quote

Hi Kyle,

Email is at sales@TheElectricBrewery.com with your original order info (so we can correlate/figure out what you have) and we'll get this resolved for you / send you replacement parts.

Quote:
Also, am I good to continue troubleshooting the rest of the panel operation without a amp meter. It doesn't appear any other component is drawing information from the amp meter. I assume it is just there for monitoring purposes rather than any critical operating information.

Correct. If you're having issues with either meter, I would simply disconnect the transformers completely and continue on (make sure that there are no bare wires that could short out anywhere - covering the tips with electrical tape can help). The meters are not required to make the rest of the panel work.

Cheers!

Kal

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Berdockamber



Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 1
Location: Eagle Creek Oregon


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Help, I have the 30 amp control panel, on the Boil kettle switch I can here the relay pickup but the yellow light flashes and goes out and have no power to the element. HLT works fine what would cause this issue with the boil kettle. Im dead until I can figure it out, like I said I can what the relay pull in, the boil Kettle light flashes on the goes out no power to the element.
One other iss is the Omega timer numbers are so dim I cant read it, is the a way to brighten it?
Thank Dave
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Berdockamber wrote:
Help, I have the 30 amp control panel, on the Boil kettle switch I can here the relay pickup but the yellow light flashes and goes out and have no power to the element. HLT works fine what would cause this issue with the boil kettle. Im dead until I can figure it out, like I said I can what the relay pull in, the boil Kettle light flashes on the goes out no power to the element.
One other iss is the Omega timer numbers are so dim I cant read it, is the a way to brighten it?
Thank Dave

Hi Dave,

You emailed us on Monday June 4th a few times and I responded - the last email was 10 minutes after your last questions with some hints and additional questions. Let me know if you didn't get it.

You are using a control panel kit that you purchased second hand from someone that assembled a kit from us 7 years ago, along with some extra items that the previous owner did not purchase from us. It's not entirely clear what you are using per my emails.

You mentioned issues with a shorting tri-clamp heating element (you wrote: "a few issues one with the boil kettle, the ground came off I heard a pop"), so we'll need more detail on that as it's not a product we've sold ourselves - we need to understand what you're doing and what you're using. If you're having shorting elements and hearing 'pops' there's definitely something not right but given that it's not something we've sold we have no idea what's being used, how things were assembled, or are being used so it's hard to assist.

If you could reply to my last email from June 4th with some detailed information on exactly what you're using we can help you through email like we were before. Please include some pictures of the inside and outside of the control panel as well as inside/outside whatever heating element assemblies you are using and we'll take a peek and offer suggestions.

Cheers!

Kal

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LMartin



Joined: 25 Dec 2012
Posts: 22
Location: Brookfield, WI

Drinking: Brown Shugga, Bridgeburner, Accidental Amber, Electric IPA

Working on: Red IPA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started the process for adjusting the PIDs, beginning with the Boil Temp. After adjusting a couple of parameters, the PID now is flashing at both PV and SV. The flashing at both shows "orAL" and alternates between PV and SV. I'm guessing its some error code, even reviewing the device instruction manual online I can't figure out what is going wrong.
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