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HOW TO: Testing your control panel / Troubleshooting
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9310
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:27 pm    Post subject: HOW TO: Testing your control panel / Troubleshooting Reply with quote


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HOW TO: Testing your control panel / Troubleshooting

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I've been asked a few times now if there's any way to test the control panel as you build it as well as general troubleshooting. Yes, there is. You can test each of the additions one by one as you add them. That's what I did. This helps isolate issues before you go any further. This would be for advanced users only.

These instructions apply to the standard 30A control panel for countries that support both 120V and 240V as documented in the build instructions on this website. They should still prove useful for other control panel versions but there may be slight (hopefully obvious) changes to some of the instructions below depending on the different control panel you may be building.

General precautions apply here as you will be playing inside an unfinished and likely open control panel that you're powering on. Please be careful! If you are uncomfortable doing any of this please do not attempt any of this.

Required:



An auto-ranging voltmeter/multimeter
Auto-ranging preferred as there's no fear of frying it if you don't set the range correctly. While any sub $20 multimeter will do for our purposes, if you're looking for a good meter to use in other projects and keep for life (and aren't embarrassed to show your electrician), I recommend the easy to use & rugged Fluke series of multimeters. The Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter shown above is an excellent choice.



General procedure:

Power

1. After wiring up power (step 5) and ground (step 6), when you turn the power key switch you should hear the power in relay close and the blue power light should come on.

Volt and amp meters

2. After wiring up the volt and amp meters (step 7) turning the power key switch should make the voltmeter display "000" and the amp approximately "00.0" or "00.1". If the amp meter fluctuates the shunt is most likely not connected properly or you may have ordered a DC meter by accident instead of an AC meter (assuming you did not order our control panel kit). It seems fairly common for some of the sellers to send the incorrect meter or for the customer to order the incorrect meter when sourcing their own parts. The voltmeter will not display the full (approximately) 240 volts until after the loop is completed by wiring up the heating elements to the second HOT line. It should at the very least still display "000". The power output on the doorbell transformer should measure approximately 12V AC, but anything from 8-30V AC is fine, and some transformers have more than connection point (called 'taps') allowing you to choose the output voltage. The power output on the adjustable AC/DC power supply should measure approximately 4.5 - 5V DC, if not adjust the power supply for 5VDC as per the instructions, but not higher, *before* the meters are connected. Feeding the meters more than 5VDC can destroy them. Setting the AC/DC power supply output voltage too low (typically below 4.5VDC) can also cause erratic behavior with the meters. Given the combination of low voltage DC and high voltage AC used by both meters, the slightest mis-wiring usually results in a fried meter and AC/DC power supply requiring both to be replaced. Double check all wiring before powering up for the first time. If a meter flashed a value momentarily and then no longer displays anything, it is most likely fried. Also be careful attaching the AC/DC power supplies such that none of the circuit board or wires sticking out the bottom short against the metal back plate. If using metal screws to mount them as shown in our instructions make sure the screws do not touch any of the copper traces or other metal parts on the circuit boards. Better yet, use plastic offsets/screws such as the ones we include in all our control panel kits and AC/DC power supplies we sell separately (see the picture on our meters and power supplies order page).

Pumps

3. After wiring up the pumps (step 8) you should be able to plug the pumps in and turn them on/off with the two pump switches. The green pump power lights should also come on when the associated switch is on. Do not run the pumps "dry" for any length of time. If you have a voltmeter test between the HOT and NEUTRAL blades in the receptacles to ensure you measure 120V when the associated pump switch is on.

PIDs / temperature probes / SSRs

4. After wiring up the PIDs (step 9) set them up using the correct setup values (see here), ignoring Pb (temperature calibration offset). You should be able to plug in a temperature probe and have the temperature displayed on the PID. Put ice cubes in a glass and stir well with water. The probe should read around 32F. Put the probe in boiling water. It should read around 212F. You can calibrate offsets for the probes now (PID Pb offset). For best accuracy I recommend using a known good thermometer (like the ThermaPen) to calibrate the offset for the MLT and HLT PIDs somewhere in the mash temperature range of 140-160F (the range we care about for these two kettles) as you likely won't be able to get the probe to be accurate at both 32F and 212F. Auto-tuning is not possible until you have everything set up. See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup

If your SSRs have a light on them to show when they're "on" you can test that as well: Set the target temperature on the PID (SV or "SET VALUE") to something higher than the temperature probe is reading and make sure the PID fires a signal to turn on the SSR. When the PID is firing a signal, the PID "OUT" light should be on. When the SSR receives this signal the SSR light should be on as well.

If the PID displays "orAL" (short for 'over range ALarm') then the PID and temperature probe are not communicating. This can be due to the temperature probe not being connected (wired) correctly to the PID, the temperature probe type setting in the PID is set incorrectly, the temperature probe is defective, or the PID is defective.

Timer and alarms

5. After wiring up the timer & alarms (step 10) you can test the timer by setting a time of (say) 10 seconds and watching it count down. The timer should start to count down immediately upon powering up. Pressing the red RESET button should reset the timer and restart the count down again. Turn the timer alarm to "ON". The alarm should sound and the red alarm light should light up when the timer reaches zero. When the timer is counting down the O1 and O2 lights on the timer will be off. When the timer has reached zero the O1 and O2 lights will turn on. If the timer alarm switch is also on, the buzzer will sound and the red alarm light will turn on.

The PIDs have two alarm temperature settings called ALM1 and ALM2. ALM1 is the high temperature alarm and is triggered as the temperature passes through the set value going upwards. ALM2 is the low temperature alarm and is triggered as the temperature passes through the set value going downwards. For complete details on how to set ALM1 and ALM2 see the Control Panel (Setup) instructions. To test ALM1 and ALM2, set an alarm temperature in the PID and turn the respective PID alarm switch to on, and then change the temperature that the probe sees. When an alarm condition is met, the ALM1 or ALM2 light on the PID will light up. If the PID alarm switch is also on, the buzzer will sound and the red alarm light will turn on. An easy way to test the PID alarms is to have the temperature probe sitting in air at room temperature (approx 72F). Set the PID ALM1 alarm to just above (say 75F), turn the PID alarm switch on, and then hold the temperature probe tip in your hand to warm it up. The ALM1 light on the PID will turn on once the temperature passes through 75F going to 76F, and the alarm will sound if the PID alarm switch is on. You can test the ALM2 setting too if you like by having the temperature drop. An alarm condition will be created if the temperature passes through the ALM2 value on its way down. Set the PID ALM2 to below room temperature (say 60F) and place the probe tip (tip only) in a glass of ice water. The ALM2 light on the PID will turn on once the temperature passes through 60F going to 59F, and the alarm will sound if the PID alarm switch is on. I don't use ALM2 myself, but it could be useful for someone using an immersion chiller in the boil kettle to know once they've hit their target temperature.

An even quicker way to test the alarming function on a PID is to simply unplug the temperature probe. The temperature value will start changing and eventually display "orAL", at which point the ALM1 light will turn on. If the PID alarm switch is also on, the buzzer will sound and the red alarm light will turn on.

Heating elements

6. After wiring up heating elements (step 11) plug in both elements and put some water in the kettles such that the elements are submerged. Set the ELEMENT SELECT switch to off. Set the BK PID to 100% power (manual mode) and the HLT PID to 150F. Neither element should produce heat. You should see both PID "OUT" lights on, and the SSR lights should be on as well (if they have LEDs built in) but with the ELEMENT SELECT switch off, the BOIL and HLT relays are off so the elements should not be firing and producing heat. The two yellow ELEMENT ON lights on the front of the control panel should also be off. Turn the ELEMENT SELECT switch to BOIL. The BOIL RELAY should make a audible 'clunk' as it closes and the yellow ELEMENT ON light for the the boil element should now be on. The boil element should fire and you should hear an initial slight "groaning" noise followed by little bubbles forming around the boil kettle heating element. Turn the ELEMENT SELECT switch to HLT. The HLT RELAY should make a audible 'clunk' as it closes. The yellow ELEMENT ON light for the HLT element should now come on and the HLT element should fire. When firing either element, you should the see amp meter measure around 22 amps. Note that turning the ELEMENT SELECT switch to either ON position without the element connected to the control panel will cause the corresponding ELEMENT ON light to light up dimly even when the PID is not telling the SSR to turn on. This is normal. It will not occur when an element is connected.

NOTE: One thing that can't be easily tested without most of it wired is the safe start interlock since it affects the power input, the pumps, and the heating elements.

Good luck!


Miscellaneous tips:

One of my switches works backwards! It's on when it should be off, and off when it should be on.
Switches use either NO or NC contactors (or both). Make sure to use the correct ones following our wiring guides. If you are sure the correct ones are being used, reverse the position on the switch. For example, if the switch has the correct contactor installed on the left side and the switch is working backwards, install the contactor on the right. Ignore the 1/2/3/4 numbers printed on the contactors. Contactors are not polarized (there is no in or out connection points) so it doesn't matter which side of the contactor is used when wiring.

Can I test a PID without using a temperature probe?
The SYL-2352 PIDs require that a temperature probe be connected in order for them to work, even if you want to test and run them in manual mode (such as it done in the boil kettle). If you wish to test a PID without a temperature probe do the following: Set the PID SN setting to 0 to set the probe type to a 2-wire thermocouple probe and use a copper wire to short the PID terminals 4 & 5 together. The PID will then display ambient temperature and you'll be able to run the PID in manual mode.

One of my wires in my control panel looks like it's melting!
Heat is created when current flows through an area that is too small to handle the amount of current. This can happen (a) with a loose connection where only a few strands are making contact, and/or (b) a too small of a wire is used for the current (same idea as too few strands), and/or (c) when a larger wire is used but only some strands make contact because some of the copper strands were trimmed (this should never be done) or (d) the wire is not properly tightened fastened. The same thing can happen if an electrical socket or blade is dirty or charred or if it’s not pushed and locked in properly. All of these cases effectively reduce the contact area meaning that more current flows through a smaller area which in turns creates heat. Often this heat will damage the components and not only the wire as you’re seeing. After tightening a wire, push/pull on it and then tighten again. Repeat 2-3 times to ensure a tight contact. It could also be that too much current is passing through the wire by using an oversized heating element. This should only be possible if an incorrectly sized breaker (larger than 30 amps) was installed in the electrical panel. A 30A breaker must be used (assuming a 30A control panel).

I think one of my elements is dead! How can I know for sure?
If you have a multimeter, unplug your heating element from the control panel and remove the plate off your heating element box using a screwdriver. Measure the resistance across the element by measuring across the two connection points. Resistance of the 5500W elements is approximately 10.4 ohms, while resistance of the 4500W elements is approximately 12.8 ohms. If the heating element is defective you will most likely measure an open circuit (infinite resistance). This can happen if the heating element is fired for more than a few seconds while in air (not submerged in water or wort). If the measured resistance is correct and you're running a 50A control panel, check your control panel fuses.

The ELEMENT ON yellow light glows dimly when the ELEMENT SELECT switch is in the ON position without the element connected! Is something broken?
No. This is normal. Turning the ELEMENT SELECT switch to either ON position without the element connected to the control panel will cause the corresponding ELEMENT ON light to light up dimly even when the PID is not telling the SSR to turn on. It will not occur when an element is connected. All SSRs have a small amount of leakage current and without the element connected to sink it it's the LED light that lights up dimly.

I'm measuring voltage at the output of the SSR even though the SSR is supposed to be off! Is it broken?
No. This is normal. Since SSRs have voltage/current characteristics of semiconductors rather than mechanical relays, SSRs have a small amount of leakage current which causes some voltage to be measured on the output at all times. You cannot use regular continuity testing (resistance) to test an SSR. Since very little current is allowed to flow however when the SSR is off, the heating element will not heat up even though voltage is present at all times on the output. This leakage current (inherent to all SSRs) is one of the reasons why our design includes the added safety of using mechanical relays to physically disconnect the power from the heating elements (controlled by the ELEMENT SELECT switch). The mechanical relays ensure that there is a complete physical disconnect between both HOT lines and the heating elements when the relay is off. This is important as we will often be working or cleaning one kettle while the other is operational.

My heating element is not firing at all! (or firing continuously)
This is a common problem as it can occur due to incorrect wiring, incorrect PID settings, incorrectly using the PID, a defective part, or a combination of the above. If you supplied your own parts instead of using one of our control panel kits, then the problem may also be due to an incorrect or incompatible part. Use the logic below to troubleshoot.

Control from the PID to the heating element goes like this:

PID -> SSR -> ELEMENT SELECT SWITCH -> RELAY (BOIL or HLT) -> ELEMENT (and corresponding ELEMENT ON light)

When the PID is sending a signal to turn on the element, the PID "OUT" light should be on. If it isn't on and you expect it to be, stop there and look in the PID for the problem. The settings may be incorrect, the temperature may be set too low, or you may be using the PD incorrectly.
For the correct settings see: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup
For the correct usage see: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step (or keep reading for the short version)

If the HLT PID is programmed with the correct settings it will only work in AUTOMATIC mode where you set the temperature. Manual mode will not be available and pressing the "A/M" button on the HLT PID will do nothing. Press the UP/DOWN buttons on the HLT PID until the lower green SET VALUE (SV) is higher than the upper red PROCESS VALUE (PV). Once SV is higher than PV, the PID "OUT" light should turn on, telling the SSR to fire.

If the BOIL PID is programmed with the correct settings it will work in both AUTOMATIC and MANUAL modes (see here for an explanation of the two modes). Press the "A/M" button until the "A-M" light is on, meaning that the PID is in MANUAL mode. You should see the lower green SV number display as "M XXX" where XXX is a number. If the "M" is not displayed press the SET button to switch the display mode. Press the UP/DOWN buttons on the Boil Element PID until the lower green SV number reads "M 100". This will tell the BOIL SSR to run 100% of the time.

If the PID "OUT" light is on then the SSR should be receiving a signal and turning on too. The PID "OUT" light and the SSR light should always be on at the same time. If the SSR light isn't on (assuming your SSR has a light) then there's an issue either in the PID output connector (PID is defective), in the wiring between the PID and the SSR (check your wiring), or the SSR is defective. To troubleshoot a possibly defective PID or SSR, swap it with another known working PID or SSR.

If the SSR light is on but there's no heat at the element, then either the relay between the SSR and the element isn't closed, there's a problem with the element, the wiring between the SSR -> ELEMENT SELECT SWITCH / RELAY -> ELEMENT is incorrect, the relay is defective, you have not turned the ELEMENT SELECT switch to one of the two ON positions, or the wrong contactors have been used in the ELEMENT SELECT SWITCH. It is also possible that the element itself is defective. Switching the ELEMENT SELECT SWITCH to either on position should make the corresponding RELAY close with an audible 'clunk' - if it doesn't check your ELEMENT SELECT SWITCH wiring.

If the ELEMENT SELECT SWITCH is turned to either of the on positions to power the boil or the HLT, the corresponding yellow ELEMENT ON light on the front of the control panel should be turning on in unison with the corresponding PID "OUT" light and the SSR light. All 3 should be on at the same time. If the SSR light is on when the PID "OUT" light is off, then the SSR is receiving a signal to turn on likely all the time. Check your wiring. The SSR may also be defective. If the ELEMENT ON light is on when the PID "OUT" light and SSR light are off then the element receptacle is receiving 240V when it shouldn't. Check your relay and SSR wiring. The relay and SSR may also both be defective, but this is highly improbable.

If everything in the control panel appears to be working correctly to this point, use a voltmeter to (carefully) measure the two HOT connection points on the heating element receptacles on the bottom of the control panel - careful not to short the two together! With the ELEMENT SELECT SWITCH in either ON position to close the corresponding relay and the PID firing a signal to turn on the SSR, you should be measuring 240V. If yes, then the control panel is working correctly and the problem is external to the control panel and will be somewhere in the heating element cord, plug, or box.

If one of the yellow ELEMENT ON lights does not light up but the corresponding heating element does, then the ELEMENT ON light is either wired incorrectly or is defective. The LED nature of these lights means that they should last 30,000 hours but failures can happen with any equipment. The ELEMENT ON lights do not need to function for the heating elements to fire.

Using a voltmeter to measure for 240V at the various points along the chain can help troubleshoot the issue further.

Using an ohmmeter I'm measuring a short between the HOT and NEUTRAL bus terminal strips. Is that normal?
Yes. Completely normal on a control panel that is assembled correctly. Inside the two step down transformers are two (or more) coils of wire wrapped around a core (usually iron). When you pass current through this coil as is done with a multimeter to test resistance, you'll measure a short since that's what it is. Through the somewhat magical laws of physics and electromagnetic induction however, when you turn the panel on and 120V is fed into the transformer you do not draw infinite current and pop a fuse/breaker.

One of my PIDs displays "orAL". What does that mean?
If the PID displays "orAL" (short for 'over range ALarm') then the temperature probe is not connected (or wired) correctly to the PID, the PID input setting is the wrong type, the temperature probe is defective, or the PID is defective. You can test if it's the temperature probe and cable by swapping cables with a known working temperature probe/cable. If you suspect the cable, try swapping just the cable.

The connection point between the temperature probe tip and cable can be damaged if one is not careful when disconnecting/reconnecting the cable and the connectors are twisted and or turned when connecting them instead of lining up the tabs and pushing them together straight. There’s a little tab you need to line up when you mate the two halves together. To connect/disconnect, the tabs need to be lined up and pushed together, they should NEVER BE TWISTED/TURNED. If twisted/turned you may damage one or both ends. Twisting/turning can pull apart the wires inside the connector.

If twisting/turning caused damage and you are handy with a soldering iron, you may be able to easily repair the probe yourself. Remove the four small screws from the back of the probe and slide the resistor and cable end out of the probe (you should not have to remove it from the pot or tee). You will see one end of the resistor soldered to pin #2, and the other side soldered to either 1 or 3 with a jumper between the two. One of those points is most likely broken and/or making intermittent contact. A quick re-soldering is all that is needed.

Replacement cables as well as replacement cables with probe tips are available for order on our temperature probe order page.

The electrical panel GFI breaker trips as soon as I plug in the panel!
If the GFI breaker trips as soon as you plug in the panel, the GFI breaker may be wired incorrectly. This is especially true if using a panel that has been pre-assembled by us as they are all tested under load for at least one hour. A mis-wired GFI breaker is very common unfortunately, even by licenced electricians. Check that the GFI breaker NEUTRAL wire (white) coming from the wall outlet is connected to the breaker NEUTRAL pole and that the white pigtail wire from the GFI breaker is connected to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel. What is often done incorrectly is that the NEUTRAL wire (white) coming from the wall outlet is connected directly to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel with the pigtail. More information

---------

Refer to the owners manuals of the individual parts (PIDs, timer, meters) for further troubleshooting. The PID manuals are especially useful as they contain further troubleshooting tips.

Kal


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Last edited by kal on Sun Oct 07, 2018 2:59 am; edited 99 times in total
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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
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Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, What the helles a kolsch?

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PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 thank you for this!!
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vedrosrp



Joined: 17 Jan 2013
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually wired up the Safe Start Interlock while I was initially wiring the main power relay. I tested the circuit before anything else was wired. All switches off = main relay comes on and blue light comes on. Any of the 3 switches turned on and the panel will not power up. When the panel was already on I was able to turn on any of the 3 switches and still maintain power to the panel.

I knew I was going to go the Safe Start Interlock route from the beginning so I just wired it up that way.

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PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you said that the output voltage on the doorbell transformer should read 120vac, i thought the output was supposed to be reduced to 12vac before it got to the dc pwr supply?
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kal
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

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PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct. Good catch. Thank you. I've fixed the text.

Kal

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PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Correct. Good catch. Thank you. I've fixed the text.

Kal

whew! im just getting ready to start my wiring this weekend and thought i was ready then i read that . lol Btw tremendous job on the how - to on this site, there was no way i could have tackled a job like this with out it. Awesome site Mug

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamatron wrote:
Btw tremendous job on the how - to on this site, there was no way i could have tackled a job like this with out it. Awesome site Mug

Thanks! As long as the result is more beer in the world, my job here is done. Beer makes the world a happier place.

Kal

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PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a link or sticky to a full schematic diagram for the different panels. ? Or would this be just use PJ's schematics.
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kal
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Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

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PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no "one" big schematic. They've been broken down into functional sections to make it easier for people to wire that may not be familiar with wiring.

Diagrams are here:

Standard 30A panel: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-1

Standard 30A panel addendum for countries with only 240V: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25393

50A 30+ gallon panel addendum: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24918

50A back to back panel addendum: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25793

PJ is a user over at the HomeBrewTalk.com forum that has drawn up countless of schematics for people. They're all different. I don't think he does it anymore. He's in no way affiliated with us here. I can't speak for him nor have reviewed all of his work, so I don't see how you could use any of his diagrams for our panels. For what it's worth most of his designs include the feature of purposely shunting current to ground through an emergency stop switch to turn the panel off in case of an emergency. It assumes that your GFI breaker will protect you. Even though he argues that this is fine to do, this is not a safe practice and would never pass any sort of inspection and would never be allowed in a UL panel shop. I (and many others) strongly suggest not implementing such a feature. BYO magazine published one of his designs a few years back and I and other electrical engineer made them change it before it went to print (we're on the technical review board).

Kal

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sincere01



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PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:

Thanks! As long as the result is more beer in the world, my job here is done. Beer makes the world a happier place.
Kal


There is definitely more beer at my house (and my friends houses) because of it!
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TwoDogBrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2012
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PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any idea why when i go to turn on the safe start relay or main contractor I trip my main ground fault breaker.. Even if i unhook everything and just have the coil hooked up I trip it.. But have no problem running a 5500w heating element directly and running for hours..

Is it the coil surge on the contractors ?

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kal
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PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the GFI is tripping something is not correct. It is not normal. Something has been done differently or incorrectly. It could be an incorrect part, incorrect wiring, or a defective part. It could be an incorrectly wired GFI. Unfortunately it's nearly impossible for someone to troubleshoot this for you remotely.

Kal

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PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I rechecked all the wiring .. Replaced the ground fault with another breaker and all the functions work in the panel just fine..

I need to debug my Spa panel now.. maybe it is a faulty ground fault breaker.. eaton gfcb250 5mA sensitivity

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TwoDogBrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2012
Posts: 13



PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Want to check before hooking up meters ... I also having issues with a dc power supply.. Have not hooked up the output to DC side yet.. one supply adjusts just fine.. the other I turned the pot more then 30 times Clockwise and will not go down below 13.8vdc ..
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sincere01



Joined: 16 Jun 2012
Posts: 162
Location: Gresham OR


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Have not hooked up the output to DC side yet.. one supply adjusts just fine.. the other I turned the pot more then 30 times Clockwise and will not go down below 13.8vdc .


Did you source the parts yourself? If so, are you using doorbell transformers? If so, are you using the type that has variable voltage based on how you connect it? If the answers to all those questions are yes, you may want to check how the connections are and if you can re-wire them to a lower voltage on the transformer.
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TwoDogBrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2012
Posts: 13



PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sincere01 wrote:
Quote:
Have not hooked up the output to DC side yet.. one supply adjusts just fine.. the other I turned the pot more then 30 times Clockwise and will not go down below 13.8vdc .


Did you source the parts yourself? If so, are you using doorbell transformers? If so, are you using the type that has variable voltage based on how you connect it? If the answers to all those questions are yes, you may want to check how the connections are and if you can re-wire them to a lower voltage on the transformer.


All parts from b2b kit ..

i will check the incoming AC to the board next.. but the transformers are identical
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sincere01



Joined: 16 Jun 2012
Posts: 162
Location: Gresham OR


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kit? like you bought if from Kal and Mike?
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TwoDogBrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2012
Posts: 13



PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sincere01 wrote:
kit? like you bought if from Kal and Mike?


Yes.. bought the full B2B kit from Kal and Mike.. and a perfect kit I might add.. no issues except this one.. Took me two days to assemble.. I will put up pics later of the box it self.

BTW I am a EEE and past life designed and built industrial automation controls like this.. So knowledge is not the issue here.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/108423930313055883312/albums/5837437514564241345
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9310
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Added a hint on how to run a PID without a temperature probe. This can sometimes be handy when testing a PID/SSR/heating element when a probe is not available.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9310
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Added a couple of hints that have to do specifically with SSR leakage current (these are common questions):

Quote:
The ELEMENT ON yellow light glows dimly when the ELEMENT SELECT switch is in the ON position without the element connected! Is something broken?

I'm measuring voltage at the output of the SSR even though the SSR is supposed to be off! Is it broken?


Kal

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