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Upcoming build questions

 
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malric




Joined: 24 Nov 2011
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:03 pm    Post subject: Upcoming build questions Reply with quote


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Hey guys and gals,
I'm in the planning stage for a modified Kal build. I'm planning on 5 gallon batches in 10 gallon Blichmann kettles. Hopefully you guys can help with a couple questions.

1. I'm planning a 5 gallon, 3 vessel, 2 element setup. Has anyone done this with 240v 3000 or 4500w. Any advice?
2. Has anyone had element rust issues using Kals weldless element setup?
3. Is there an easy compiled list of Blichmann orings? Ie. McMaster links?
4. I'm planning a full stainless system. Are cam lock quick disconnects the best route?

Thanks
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silverspoons




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Malric

i have the system you describe with a few modifications.. i do 5 or 5.5 gal batches, i have 3 Bayou SS kettles.

i did experience a small amount of rust in my HLT but solved that problem by adding a magnesium anode used in an RV water heater. it is well documented in a thread about rust.

i use my counterflow chiller as both my heat exchanger to recirculate my mash and to cool my boiled wort, therefore eliminating the need for the SS coin in the HLT. it works great, ( brewing at this moment ), i have between 1 and 2 degree heat lose in all the hoses and with the fact that my CFC is hanging under the table and is exposed to the 68 degree air temps in my basement. i just set my HLT temp to 153 to mash at 152.

i do also use cam locks. one reason was that when i was building my system last winter the quick releases Kal uses were backordered for several weeks and the price of the cam locks is considerable less.. they do require two hands to operate though.

good luck with the build, building the system is a great experience and using it is beyond fun!

Silverspoons
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malric




Joined: 24 Nov 2011
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Silverspoons.

Did you use an anode something like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000701HEQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000701HEQ ? If so, how did you attach it to the kettle?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

silverspoons wrote:
good luck with the build, building the system is a great experience and using it is beyond fun!

If using it is beyond fun, what about drinking the results?? Wink

malric wrote:
1. I'm planning a 5 gallon, 3 vessel, 2 element setup. Has anyone done this with 240v 3000 or 4500w. Any advice?

Are you 100% sure you never want to go beyond 5 gallon batches? Going to 10 gallon batches buy using 20 gallon kettles isn't much more expensive and you can still do 5 gallon batches if you want to. You can't do the opposite. No issues using 5500W elements in 5 gallon batches. Just faster ramp times and short time to get to boil.

Quote:
3. Is there an easy compiled list of Blichmann orings? Ie. McMaster links?

Why do you ask? Blichmann kettles come with o-rings for their parts already included. To attach the parts from my instructions us the o-rings I recommend. Links to McMaster are provided.

Quote:
4. I'm planning a full stainless system. Are cam lock quick disconnects the best route?

I like the QDs I use in my build as documented because they're easier to operate. I chose them over all other fitting methods including camlocks and triclamps. YMMV.

Here's a video of how easy they are to use:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCMz7Pmu8YQ&feature=player_embedded


Kal

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malric




Joined: 24 Nov 2011
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal. I recently ripped one of the stock ball valve orings and figured it would be wise to have replacements for all of them. I must have missed the oring info in your build. Not sure how that happened given how small it is. Wink

I'm not positive that I'll ever exceed 5 gallons as I'm the only beer drinker in my household. Beyond that, small batches mean more brew days, more experiments and smaller quantity mistakes. I also picked up 2 Blichmann kettles cheap from another home brewer that was downsizing to 2.5 gallon stovetop AG.

Have you tested the length and seal on the 5500w element in the 10 gallon kettle? I've read issues regarding the length of the element and the curvature of the kettle wall.

That you for your build and constant input to the community.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No issues with the 10 gallon pot. This is what Mike from Spike Innovations uses. He has been unable to cause any leaks at all when pushing/pulling on it when boiling.

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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malric




Joined: 24 Nov 2011
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal.
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silverspoons




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

malric wrote:
Thanks Silverspoons.

Did you use an anode something like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000701HEQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000701HEQ ? If so, how did you attach it to the kettle?



yes, that's the one, i installed it pretty much the same way Kal installed the temp probe in the boil kettle.. been in for about one year, with many brews done with no leaks..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/boil-kettle?page=4

there are some pics of mine on this forum under the rust subject:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24644&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=rust&&start=60

Silverspoons
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Holter




Joined: 07 Oct 2011
Posts: 221
Location: Los Angeles, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

silverspoons wrote:
malric wrote:
Thanks Silverspoons.

Did you use an anode something like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000701HEQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000701HEQ ? If so, how did you attach it to the kettle?



yes, that's the one, i installed it pretty much the same way Kal installed the temp probe in the boil kettle.. been in for about one year, with many brews done with no leaks..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/boil-kettle?page=4

there are some pics of mine on this forum under the rust subject:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24644&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=rust&&start=60

Silverspoons


Silverspoons-

After a year, what does the anode look like? Does it degrade at all over time?

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Holter
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silverspoons




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm sure over time it will degrade but if you do a batch every other week, its "under" water for about 80 hours in a year, not like its sitting in a water heater working all the time. mine looks pretty much like when it was installed with very little change.

Silverspoons
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ddc69




Joined: 13 Jan 2012
Posts: 118
Location: Parkersburg, WV


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:01 pm    Post subject: size Reply with quote

silverspoons,

Is this 1/2" pipe thread? I am wanting to buy one and order a nut and washers at the same time. I'm assuming you used the 9/16" punch.

Thanks
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foomench




Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 704
Location: Longmont, CO

Drinking: Pinot barrel aged quad

Working on: Flanders oude bruin in barrel, Flanders red fermenting to refill the barrel


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

malric wrote:
Beyond that, small batches mean more brew days, more experiments and smaller quantity mistakes.

10 gallon batches mean more experiments, or experiments with a control Smile I did 10 gallons of California common once, did half as an open ferment, half in a carboy. Split another 10 and pitched two different yeasts. Made a wheat with calendula flowers. "Dry flowered" half with flower petals out of the bag, and for the other half I made a tea with the flowers and a 15 minute boil. Boy I'm glad I didn't do the untreated thing for all 10 gallons, as the non-tea version got infected.

Jus' sayin'

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Ben58




Joined: 14 Aug 2011
Posts: 409
Location: Hamilton, Ontario


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:13 pm    Post subject: Re: size Reply with quote

ddc69 wrote:
silverspoons,

Is this 1/2" pipe thread? I am wanting to buy one and order a nut and washers at the same time. I'm assuming you used the 9/16" punch.

Thanks


If the thread is 1/2" pipe, that would be the 13/16" punch.
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