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Russian River Pliny The Elder Double IPA
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10190
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:18 am    Post subject: Russian River Pliny The Elder Double IPA Reply with quote


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Recipe is here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/russian-river-pliny-the-elder-double-ipa

Questions? Ask below. Cheers!

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Wed Oct 09, 2019 5:33 pm; edited 42 times in total
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Fatbaldingoldgit



Joined: 28 Nov 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Horsham, West Sussex


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a batch of this dry hopping in the conical..is it acceptable to squeeze every last precious drop of liquid out of the hops when I remove them?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10190
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile

It is precious stuff!

I wouldn't squeeze anything however... just accept that you're going to probably lose 1/4 to 1/2 gallon from dry hopping this monster.

Kal

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Fatbaldingoldgit



Joined: 28 Nov 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Horsham, West Sussex


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's your logic for not squeezing the hops, Kal?....is there stuff in there that we don't want that we would get if we squoze it?
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mvakoc



Joined: 19 Sep 2011
Posts: 155
Location: Evergreen, CO


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Smile

It is precious stuff!

I wouldn't squeeze anything however... just accept that you're going to probably lose 1/4 to 1/2 gallon from dry hopping this monster.

Kal


I have this in the fermenter too. Had to just laugh when adding that many hops to the conical.
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Fatbaldingoldgit



Joined: 28 Nov 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Horsham, West Sussex


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

..and mine are all whole hops so unless I take some remedial action a significant amount of the precious stuff is going to be extracted with the hops...
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10190
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Squeezing would get a bunch of trub and other junk in there. You may get more vegetal matter too depending on how hard you sqeeze. I just don't think it's worth it. Best to leave behind as munch junk as possible from one racking to another (IMHO).

Kal

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Holter



Joined: 07 Oct 2011
Posts: 221
Location: Los Angeles, Ca


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeezing the hop sack can add a tannic, vegetal aroma to your beer which i dont think you want. It will also let out some of the hop particulate, which you could avoid when racking, but for me personally i want to keep that nice floral aroma and avoid vegetal aromas when dry hopping. It would be a shame to ruin a batch of beer just to gain back a pint or two. You can of course just pick the grain sack up and out of the liquid and just hold it there for a while to let it drain without squeezing, but ive never done that so i cant speak for the results.
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Fatbaldingoldgit



Joined: 28 Nov 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Horsham, West Sussex


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips guys...I definitely don't want any off flavours to be introduced. As my hops are free floating I'll just scoop them out with a slotted spoon and fine the remaining liquor for 2-3 days..hopefully that will preserve the lovely aroma and ensure a beer clear from any sediment.

..unless you can advise a better methodology?...

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10190
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pellet hops usually settle out in 7-10 days (the usual time I dry hop). I simply rack off them mess of hops and sludge at the bottom, leaving them behind.

If you've got a conical that hops/sludge mess would be the first thing to come out and you discard.


Kal

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Last edited by kal on Wed Jul 17, 2013 1:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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mvakoc



Joined: 19 Sep 2011
Posts: 155
Location: Evergreen, CO


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed this around 3 weeks ago. OG was slightly higher and FG ended up at 1.006, so this is going to be boozy. It fermented slightly warmer than I would have liked due to the summer heat.

Today I kegged it. I have a conical and dumped trub/yeast/hops as much as possible, but not that much came out. After filling the kegs, an inspection showed the massive amount of remaining hops were too thick to pass through the butterfly valve. In the future I will sterilize a rod to poke through in the future. After filling both kegs and opening the conical I could see the sample valve was still in very thick hop residue, so I suspect keg #2 has a bunch.

I sampled it, warm and un-carbonated. It tasted absolutely fantastic. I did have one bad thing happen that risks infection -- through a strange series of events some of the blow-off water made it all the way up the tube and some potentially made it into the beer. The blow off water is star san based but is so old I suspect it would no longer be sterile. Here's to hoping a bad infection doesn't happen. Luckily this isn't one to age.
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Fatbaldingoldgit



Joined: 28 Nov 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Horsham, West Sussex


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strangely enough I brewed this 3 weeks ago..too....my 3rd batch from the Kal's rig...

OG was a little low at 1072..FG spot on at 1014

I removed the free hops on Thursday using a large sieve..avoided the temptation to squeeze them...and then pitched 80ml of Isinglasss mixed with some of the beer..so as to clear it, if poss....still have loads of floating bits in the beer so will keg today with a muslin bag over the end of the hose from my conical..at least that should filter any stray trub and veggy matter..and then it's straight into the keezer for a couple of weeks chilling...can't wait..!!

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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 833
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question on altering the amount of grain to account for efficiency - do I up the amount of hops as well?
Thanks!
perogi.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10190
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. Efficiency is all about how well the system converts grain starches to sugars and then extracts them. Hops do not factor in at all.

Hop extraction is based on contact time in the boil. Pellets do get a bit more per weight than whole hops. I think it's about 10-20%. Some people who use hop bags get clumping which reduces hop extraction too. I use pellets mostly and all my recipes assume pellets. I just noticed I didn't mention that anywhere but I don't remember any recipe ever mentioning that. I think most people always assume pellets. Those that use whole hops may want to increase slightly though the slight increase isn't likely going to be noticed. AA% drops over time too with hops. It's all somewhat of a crapshoot. Brew it, and then make changes are required.

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 833
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Lots of extremely useful information!


Thanks boss!

EDIT: Brewing this tomorrow!
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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 833
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

perogi wrote:
kal wrote:
Lots of extremely useful information!

Thanks boss!
EDIT: Brewing this tomorrow!


Brewed! Had some issues with my HLT probe - I think there might be a loose wire somewhere. The temps would look great and then all of the sudden it would shoot up. Had to MacGyver it and use the boil PID for the HLT and then switch them back for the boil. I overcompensated for the wort loss due to hops so I ended up pulling one of my Curtec 7055 55 liter fermentation barrels. Got one batch in a 6.5 gal carboy and about 8 gallons in the Curtec. Hoping that the Curtec's "smell" doesn't leach into the beer :-/

Anyone else use these barrels before?
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silverspoons



Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if your PID was jumping all over the place, you probably have a short in the wiring in the probe. i had that issue, replaced the probe wire and all is well since.

Silverspoons
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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 833
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

silverspoons wrote:
if your PID was jumping all over the place, you probably have a short in the wiring in the probe. i had that issue, replaced the probe wire and all is well since.

Silverspoons


yeah I'm going to move the same probe from the HLT and MLT kettles to see if it still jumps around - I *think* that the issue might actually be in the wiring from the pid to the "probe plug" (the real name is escaping me now) at the bottom of the enclosure.

Hopefully it's the probe wire but I'm not holding my breath - I got them from Spike Innovations. I have more confidence in his soldering ability than mine Smile
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silverspoons



Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they're pretty delicate. i took apart the one with the short.. it was in the end that went into the probe not the end i soldered.. i can see how a little twist can loosen a contact.

silverspoons
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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 833
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks silverspoons - just so I don't take apart the wrong piece, is this the part that you worked on?

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/temperature-probes?page=4
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