Switches for 50a

TexCali · Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas

Recently purchased the 50a for b2b, but really just to heat cleaning water while brewing....anyway thought I would give the DIY panel a shot. Oh boy this will be a project, especially since I am no electrician and learning as I go. Expect many more questions along the way. First thing first, attach the labels and then start installing components and I'm already confused.

Issue: I took off the knob to a few selector switches while playing around with them and now I do not know which is the correct way they go back together. Most that are still in the plastic are orientated the same way but there are a couple that are the opposite. So which is it? The white knob line would obviously correspond to the off/on label but is that to the NO or NC side on the backside? Most older pics show a green and red half (NO, NC) or if not then its a green and red tab. I did read there is no polarity so does it really matter and most people just choose uniformity?

Also, reviewing pics from the website / ebook and the wiring diagrams only show the 3 way switch (boil off HLT) for the 30a. Could someone point me to the 50a diagram in case I missed it? Once I figure out the switch orientation I can see how to connect each one.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2023 2:04 pm Post subject:

Hi!

Thanks for your order - it's appreciated!

Any questions at all don't be afraid to reach out. We're here to help. Happy to help through the forum here or directly by email too. You can reach me directly at kal@TheElectricBrewery.com

Now on to your questions:

TexCali · Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas

Awesome, thanks.....I guess I skimmed over that alternate build portion, makes a bit more sense now.

**kal** · Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2023 8:40 pm Post subject:

Any other questions please reach out. Cheers!

Kal

TexCali · Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas

Now onto the backplate. Just to get an idea that I have the components in the correct place that will still allow movement of the wires and will not interfere with the power receptacles coming in from the bottom, before I start drilling. Also, the BK/HLT relays seem different from the alternative build pictures.....each one is set up with A1 (left side) A2 (right side). Are they just updated components? As I understand it, the load distribution component will split the 6g wire into two separate 10g wires going to each (right) side of the BK/HLT relays, sliver connectors top A2. Only asking about the spacing because seems it will get kind of tight with the heavier wires.

**kal** · Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2023 2:55 am Post subject:

Your spacing looks ok. Leave more room for the items with thicker wires. The items near the top only have thinner wires.

The "relays" are in fact contactors. Same thing, they behave the same. They're just sealed up so that you can't see the mechanisms.

Good luck!

Kal

TexCali · Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas

Finished installing components and now ready to start wiring. Just a couple of questions:

1- I noticed in older pics the volt meter seemed it was installed upside down (I even think there is a post commenting on it) whereas in the 50a addendum it is installed the same as the amp meter. Just curious.

2- The LED lights, does it matter the direction of the X1 and X2 or like the switches, either direction is fine?

Thanks

**kal** · Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2023 9:09 pm Post subject:

TexCali · Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas

Ok thanks for the quick reply, before I could even add my edited pics.....

**kal** · Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2023 10:36 pm Post subject:

Ha! That was pretty fast... Happened to be in front of the laptop... Wink

Happy wiring!

Kal

TexCali · Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas

are these jumper wires at the top of the neutral bus (in the diagram) needed now that they come with the terminal strip jumpers? or even the the single long one on the bottom of the hot bus (which I already did wire)....and should I remove those wires and replace with strip (on the bottom of the hot bus)

**kal** · Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2023 2:11 pm Post subject:

TexCali · Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas

I have been trucking along with a little more confidence. I just finished soldering and hooking up the XLRs but then I noticed my 2 awg wiring. Up to this point I have used the 22/2 awg for all 22 awg applications....simply pull the red and black out and used them individually where needed, keeping track so I do not get them mixed up. I have pretty much used all of the 22/2. But then I noticed I still have the entire amount (12 feet!!) of the 22 / 4 pairs awg (multi colored). Did I miss something? I do not see any other diagrams requiring more 22 awg.

aside from the final two connections to the BK PID (short two red spades)...otherwise, XLRs to PIDS, Volt and Amp meters to AC/DC and shunt, Volt meter to hot bus and BK contactor, low voltage side of doorbell transformers to the AC/DC, SSRs to BK PID and HLT PID.

**kal** · Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2024 4:40 pm Post subject:

Hi! The 4-wire vs 2-wire 22 AWG bundles can be used for different purposes. 4-wire makes sense when you need to pull 3-4 wires to places like the PIDs and the XLR receptacles. 2-wire makes sense when only 2 wire are needed (meters, power supplies, SSRs) so that you don't need two sets of 2-wire . No harm done however using one vs the other however. Cheers!

Kal