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TexCali
Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2023 10:05 am Post subject: Switches for 50a |
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Recently purchased the 50a for b2b, but really just to heat cleaning water while brewing....anyway thought I would give the DIY panel a shot. Oh boy this will be a project, especially since I am no electrician and learning as I go. Expect many more questions along the way. First thing first, attach the labels and then start installing components and I'm already confused.
Issue: I took off the knob to a few selector switches while playing around with them and now I do not know which is the correct way they go back together. Most that are still in the plastic are orientated the same way but there are a couple that are the opposite. So which is it? The white knob line would obviously correspond to the off/on label but is that to the NO or NC side on the backside? Most older pics show a green and red half (NO, NC) or if not then its a green and red tab. I did read there is no polarity so does it really matter and most people just choose uniformity?
Also, reviewing pics from the website / ebook and the wiring diagrams only show the 3 way switch (boil off HLT) for the 30a. Could someone point me to the 50a diagram in case I missed it? Once I figure out the switch orientation I can see how to connect each one.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2023 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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Hi!
Thanks for your order - it's appreciated!
Any questions at all don't be afraid to reach out. We're here to help. Happy to help through the forum here or directly by email too. You can reach me directly at kal@TheElectricBrewery.com
Now on to your questions:
TexCali wrote: | Issue: I took off the knob to a few selector switches while playing around with them and now I do not know which is the correct way they go back together. Most that are still in the plastic are orientated the same way but there are a couple that are the opposite. So which is it? The white knob line would obviously correspond to the off/on label but is that to the NO or NC side on the backside? Most older pics show a green and red half (NO, NC) or if not then its a green and red tab. I did read there is no polarity so does it really matter and most people just choose uniformity? |
Orientation of the NO/NC blocks does not matter, they still function the same.
Be sure that all 2 position switches are turned to their left before you insert them into the blocks, this is the off position. The 3 way switch you want it turned to the middle, but your Back to Back (B2B) panel doesn't have one of these as the elements are controlled independently. The other panels all do have a 3-way switch that lets you choose between heating the BOIL or HLT (or OFF).
TexCali wrote: | Also, reviewing pics from the website / ebook and the wiring diagrams only show the 3 way switch (boil off HLT) for the 30a. Could someone point me to the 50a diagram in case I missed it? Once I figure out the switch orientation I can see how to connect each one. |
The eBook is only for the 'standard' 30A panel. Right at the top of the build instructions there as well as online are links to all of the other panel versions. Make sure to follow the instructions for your specific panel.
We also have shortcuts to all of these alternate panel builds under our BUILDING YOUR BREWERY menu here:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/building-your-brewery
See the section "ALTERNATE CONTROL PANEL BUILDS".
Let us know if you have any additional questions and happy building!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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TexCali
Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2023 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome, thanks.....I guess I skimmed over that alternate build portion, makes a bit more sense now.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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TexCali
Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas
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Link Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2023 1:23 am Post subject: |
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Now onto the backplate. Just to get an idea that I have the components in the correct place that will still allow movement of the wires and will not interfere with the power receptacles coming in from the bottom, before I start drilling. Also, the BK/HLT relays seem different from the alternative build pictures.....each one is set up with A1 (left side) A2 (right side). Are they just updated components? As I understand it, the load distribution component will split the 6g wire into two separate 10g wires going to each (right) side of the BK/HLT relays, sliver connectors top A2. Only asking about the spacing because seems it will get kind of tight with the heavier wires.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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TexCali
Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2023 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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Finished installing components and now ready to start wiring. Just a couple of questions:
1- I noticed in older pics the volt meter seemed it was installed upside down (I even think there is a post commenting on it) whereas in the 50a addendum it is installed the same as the amp meter. Just curious.
2- The LED lights, does it matter the direction of the X1 and X2 or like the switches, either direction is fine?
Thanks
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Last edited by TexCali on Sat Dec 30, 2023 9:10 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2023 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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TexCali wrote: | 1- I noticed in older pics the volt meter seemed it was installed upside down (I even think there is a post commenting on it) whereas in the 50a addendum it is installed the same as the amp meter. Just curious. |
Correct. On older models the writing on the back was upside down compared to the LED numbers on the front. Some years later the manufacturer changed the backside printing. In either case, always install so that the numbers and the MINLIN name on the front are not upside down. What you see on the back has changed over the years. From the back, the newer meters will look like this:
TexCali wrote: | 2- The LED lights, does it matter the direction of the X1 and X2 or like the switches, either direction is fine? |
Either direction is fine. When polarity matters in the wiring diagrams the connection points will be labelled. If they're not labelled, it doesn't matter.
Cheers!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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TexCali
Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2023 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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Ok thanks for the quick reply, before I could even add my edited pics.....
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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TexCali
Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas
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Link Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2023 3:36 am Post subject: |
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are these jumper wires at the top of the neutral bus (in the diagram) needed now that they come with the terminal strip jumpers? or even the the single long one on the bottom of the hot bus (which I already did wire)....and should I remove those wires and replace with strip (on the bottom of the hot bus)
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2023 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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TexCali wrote: | are these jumper wires at the top of the neutral bus (in the diagram) needed now that they come with the terminal strip jumpers? |
No. The metal jumper replaces the jumper wires.
TexCali wrote: | or even the the single long one on the bottom of the hot bus (which I already did wire)... |
Also not needed for the same reason.
All of the wires that go to the bus need to all be connected together and the metal jumper does that. Without anything attached to the bus there are 8 pairs of screws that are shorted together: Each bottom screw in your picture is connected to the screw above it. That's all. We want them all connected together so we use either jumper wires or the metal jumper bar
You can use a multimeter set to continuity to confirm if you're not sure how it works.
TexCali wrote: | .and should I remove those wires and replace with strip (on the bottom of the hot bus) |
There's no need to remove any jumper wires like the longer black wire you used on the bottom of the HOT bus, but they're not required. They are redundant. You also do not need to add extra metal strips to the bottom of the buses as everything is already shorted together because of how each lower screw is already connected to each upper screw.
FYI, since you're new to wiring I'd recommend you read our instructions for our standard 30A control panel build as general wiring concepts, hints, and tips are presented that affect all builds. Do not follow the 30A wiring diagrams however as you are building a different model.
Good luck!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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TexCali
Joined: 27 Jul 2023 Posts: 7 Location: Texas
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Link Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2024 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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I have been trucking along with a little more confidence. I just finished soldering and hooking up the XLRs but then I noticed my 2 awg wiring. Up to this point I have used the 22/2 awg for all 22 awg applications....simply pull the red and black out and used them individually where needed, keeping track so I do not get them mixed up. I have pretty much used all of the 22/2. But then I noticed I still have the entire amount (12 feet!!) of the 22 / 4 pairs awg (multi colored). Did I miss something? I do not see any other diagrams requiring more 22 awg.
aside from the final two connections to the BK PID (short two red spades)...otherwise, XLRs to PIDS, Volt and Amp meters to AC/DC and shunt, Volt meter to hot bus and BK contactor, low voltage side of doorbell transformers to the AC/DC, SSRs to BK PID and HLT PID.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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