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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 6:52 pm Post subject: Electric brewery from the ground up |
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I enjoy reading about all the details that go into building these breweries so I decided to write a post about my experience. Hopefully somebody will enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed reading yours. I also know that two heads are better then one so I am hoping that I can get some opinions and some feed back about my build. I am purchasing the parts little by little each month to stay within a budget that will hopefully keep me married through it all. I hope to be done in the summer of 2012. I have all the parts ordered for the control panel and about 70% of it in my possession. I have the top JB welded and sanded down. I'm waiting to make the cuts until I get the PIDs, timer, volt meter, and heat sink in.
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Top of control panel sanded |
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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My utility room is where I brew right now with rubber maid coolers and a propane burner and will also be site of my new electric brewery. It is in the basement and stays between 65 and 75 year round. I have been working with sketchup and think I have a good layout but would like your opinion please.
Right now the workbench and cupboards are used for my bicycle workshop. However, I am planning on moving the bicycle workshop to a new area in the garage. The workbench and cupboards I'm planning on leaving and using in the brewery. the box to the right represents my chest freezer and needs to stay in the room even though it is not being used for beer.
The other side of the room is where I plan on putting my soon to be built brew stand and brewery. I already have the ventilation hood mostly built. The guy building it has it almost done but is just waiting on me to tell him where I want the exhaust pipe to come out and how I want to hang the hood. I eventually want to put a sink to the right of the brew stand. I'm planning on placing the control panel on the left of the brewstand.
The refrigerator is used as a fermentor and the cabinets are used for storage.
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Last edited by g8tors on Sun Nov 27, 2011 5:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Here are some actual photos of the room. Please excuse the mess. There is some plumbing that I think I could tap into on the south wall. And right above that area are some exposed floor joints that I think I could use to hold up the hood vent so I think that is why that is the best area for the brewery. I need to have an electrician come out and wire a 240. I'm thinking about having the outlet installed on the closet wall that my little storage bin is hanging on. And about where my storage bin is hanging is where I think I will have my control panel installed. I think I will have the hood vent exit just above and to the right of the outside door. I was planning on having the door open a bit to let fresh air in while I brewed but I fear that the exhaust vent will be too close to the opening of the door. What do you think? Words of encouragement, ideas, and "what the hell are you thinking? You can't do that" are appreciated.
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floor joints above the proposed brewery site |
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brew room as it looks right now |
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KES
Joined: 13 May 2011 Posts: 472 Location: Iowa
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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I would go ahead and cut the holes and paint, if I were you. If you got the tools to do it, and are going to used kal's recommended parts. The prepping of the box take as much time, and more effort, than the installing. Then you will be ready to install when your parts arrive. My two cents.
_________________ “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” B. Franklin
Last edited by KES on Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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I'm planning on using a 15 g Blichmann for the mash tun and 20 g Blichmanns for the HLT and Boil. The reason for using 15 g for the mash tun is because I already had it, and I think that will allow me to do just about any 10 gal batch I want to. I don't know why the sketchup drawings aren't showing up?
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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KES,
I want to but I'm worried about cutting out the rectangles. I really want the control panel to look nice and I'm worried that the rectangles won't line up or will look crooked.
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KES
Joined: 13 May 2011 Posts: 472 Location: Iowa
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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I hear you. We all want it to be perfect. Just a friendly suggestion based on my build. Good Luck and those are some beautiful cabinets for a basement!
_________________ “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” B. Franklin
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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Nice work! I love to see pictures like this! Thanks for sharing!
g8tors wrote: | I think I will have the hood vent exit just above and to the right of the outside door. I was planning on having the door open a bit to let fresh air in while I brewed but I fear that the exhaust vent will be too close to the opening of the door. What do you think? |
How close is too close? Normally when you have inputs/outputs they'll try and keep them at least 6 feet apart. It's different if one is hot exhaust (like a furnace) since the hot will rise. You can put these a lot closer together (often only a foot or two). So I think you'd be ok as long as the exhaust going out is still hot (maybe insulate the duct if there's any). What'll happen is the steam exiting will rise and not want to come back in through the door. To make sure of this you could put a 1-2 foot rise to the vent on the outside to help put the hot air up. This way it'll minimize what comes back in through the door.
g8tors wrote: | I don't know why the sketchup drawings aren't showing up? |
They're too wide. I purposely don't show really wide images in line in the thread to avoid blowing out the page width which makes it hard to navigate. Wide images need to be clicked on to be viewed.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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KES wrote: | I hear you. We all want it to be perfect. Just a friendly suggestion based on my build. Good Luck and those are some beautiful cabinets for a basement! |
Thanks KES. Any tips on making sure all the rectangular cutouts line up and are parallel?
Kal wrote: | How close is too close? Normally when you have inputs/outputs they'll try and keep them at least 6 feet apart. It's different if one is hot exhaust (like a furnace) since the hot will rise. You can put these a lot closer together (often only a foot or two). So I think you'd be ok as long as the exhaust going out is still hot (maybe insulate the duct if there's any). What'll happen is the steam exiting will rise and not want to come back in through the door. To make sure of this you could put a 1-2 foot rise to the vent on the outside to help put the hot air up. This way it'll minimize what comes back in through the door. |
That's a good idea. I haven't looked at or priced the duct work yet but I saw the fan has 6" openings so I figured I would go 6" from the hood to the fan and then 6" out from the fan to 4" exiting the house. Would I stay 4" to do the 1 to 2 foot rise or go to maybe 2"?
Kal wrote: | They're too wide. I purposely don't show really wide images in line in the thread to avoid blowing out the page width which makes it hard to navigate. Wide images need to be clicked on to be viewed. |
I'll try to resize them and post them again.
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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I would like to paint the walls and treat the floor this month and possibly get the brew table finished. I would like to treat the floors with something that would make it easy to mop up and clean but not make them too slippery. Any ideas? And maybe do a glossy paint to make the walls easier to clean? Or is there a better option?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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KES
Joined: 13 May 2011 Posts: 472 Location: Iowa
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Link Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:41 am Post subject: |
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Follow kal's directions CAREFULLY and measure TWICE and then once again. Don't rush it. If you slip up, go to the JB Weld and fix it.
_________________ “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” B. Franklin
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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The PIDs, SSRs, and temp sensors came in the mail today. Only thing left for the control panel are the volt meter, DC power supplies, heat sink, tags, handles, and the wiring.
Scott
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KES
Joined: 13 May 2011 Posts: 472 Location: Iowa
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Link Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like your ready for some measuring and cutting. Are you going to use an amp meter from the same source? If so, you could cut for both.
_________________ “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” B. Franklin
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 3:00 am Post subject: |
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Well the volt meter is coming from China too but is from a different seller. I think I'm going to get the courage to start cutting this weekend but it depends on how the coiling of the stainless tube goes.
Scott
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TomRep
Joined: 03 Jan 2011 Posts: 52 Location: Reading, PA
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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As for the floors, I'm doing the same deal in my basement. I was contemplating the Rust Oleum floor coating but used that in my garage and wasn't impressed. I have a brewing buddy who works for Sherwin Williams and he hooked me up with a great product. There is some grit stuff called Sharkbite to throw in it and make it anti-slip. the stuff isn't cheap, but works very well. As I was applying my second coat with slippers on, I accidentally stepped on some of the fresh stuff with about an 1 1/2'-2" on my slipper and it actually pulled my slipper right off! If interested, i will get you the name of the coating. Also, if you use it, be sure to use good ventilation!
Tom
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KES
Joined: 13 May 2011 Posts: 472 Location: Iowa
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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For flooring, I put down Drycore. It comes in 2' x 2' tongue and groove. It comes out of Canada. (kal will be happy) It's basically chip board with a plastic sheet on the bottom with a waffle pattern. Can get it at the big box home improvement stores. Runs around $5.25 a sheet. Feels just like a wooden floor. I have it in the Man Cave with carpet over it. Will put tile over it in the brewery, or just a sealer.
_________________ “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” B. Franklin
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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I haven't heard of that. I'll look into it
Thanks
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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I'm glad you are enjoying it. I'm having a blast building this thing. I need to take a break this weekend and brew some beer. I'm cutting the holes for the control panel now. Just have the handles, volt and amp meters, and PIDs and timer to cut out. For some reason it is taking a long time to get the Omega timer in. I ordered it 3 weeks ago and it still hasn't shipped.
Scott
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g8tors
Joined: 05 Oct 2011 Posts: 211
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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I've got the room almost ready. I have an electrician coming Tuesday to install the 240 outlet with GFI. I used tan Rust-Oleum Professional Floor Coating Kit. I like the way it turned out.
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Last edited by g8tors on Sun Nov 27, 2011 5:45 pm; edited 2 times in total
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