Based on the diagrams in the guide the neutal wires run from the pump lights into the power receptacles for the mash and water pumps in the "W" slot. However W wouldn't be on 3 prong L5-15s with only X Y and G. Any help here? _________________ Live the Dream
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 397 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Pontification Porter, Red Ale, Janet's Brown Ale, St Magnus Scottish 80, Fullers ESB
Link Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:45 pm Post subject:
The L5-15 plugs should have one silver and one gold screw for the X and Y terminals. Attach white neutral wire to silver and hot black wire to gold and you'll be good to go.
Link Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:19 pm Post subject:
mrjofus1959 wrote:
The L5-15 plugs should have one silver and one gold screw for the X and Y terminals. Attach white neutral wire to silver and hot black wire to gold and you'll be good to go.
Okay, thanks. Couldn't see the silver screw mounted on.
I'm currently wiring the Pids and need a few things clarified:
1) does it matter which 3 colors of the signal wire (going in position 3,4,5) are then matched to solder in the Xlr connections
2) On the wiring diagram you have 22gauge wiring going from the PID on position 7/8 into the SSR, in the pictures you have the 14 gauge crimp on these, which wire should I be using and if its signal am I using all 6 wires or what? _________________ Live the Dream
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 397 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Pontification Porter, Red Ale, Janet's Brown Ale, St Magnus Scottish 80, Fullers ESB
Link Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:30 pm Post subject:
Danzaslapped wrote:
I'm currently wiring the Pids and need a few things clarified:
1) does it matter which 3 colors of the signal wire (going in position 3,4,5) are then matched to solder in the Xlr connections
2) On the wiring diagram you have 22gauge wiring going from the PID on position 7/8 into the SSR, in the pictures you have the 14 gauge crimp on these, which wire should I be using and if its signal am I using all 6 wires or what?
1) Yes it does matter. The 2 red wires go to 3 and 4 and the white to 5. I just used the stock probes and wiring from Auber Instruments on mine, but assuming you kept things the same with the XLRs you're good to go.
2) The SSR control signals carry minimal current (mA) so 22 gauge wire is fine. I just used some 18ga stranded I had around the house and crimped them in the appropriate gauge crimp connectors (red).
Link Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:43 pm Post subject:
mrjofus1959 wrote:
Danzaslapped wrote:
I'm currently wiring the Pids and need a few things clarified:
1) does it matter which 3 colors of the signal wire (going in position 3,4,5) are then matched to solder in the Xlr connections
2) On the wiring diagram you have 22gauge wiring going from the PID on position 7/8 into the SSR, in the pictures you have the 14 gauge crimp on these, which wire should I be using and if its signal am I using all 6 wires or what?
1) Yes it does matter. The 2 red wires go to 3 and 4 and the white to 5. I just used the stock probes and wiring from Auber Instruments on mine, but assuming you kept things the same with the XLRs you're good to go.
2) The SSR control signals carry minimal current (mA) so 22 gauge wire is fine. I just used some 18ga stranded I had around the house and crimped them in the appropriate gauge crimp connectors (red).
1) i meant on the internals of the Xlr connector. The 22gauge signal wire has 6 colored wires internally (red,green,yellow,blue,black,white). Not sure how I'd have 2 reds onto one Xlr , as long as I stay consistent with the same color to the same numbers should it work?
2) okay, just going to wire my signal wire directly from the 7 on the PID to the negative and another 22gauge set from the 8 to the positive.
Am I doing this right? _________________ Live the Dream
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 397 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Pontification Porter, Red Ale, Janet's Brown Ale, St Magnus Scottish 80, Fullers ESB
Link Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:13 pm Post subject:
Danzaslapped wrote:
1) i meant on the internals of the Xlr connector. The 22gauge signal wire has 6 colored wires internally (red,green,yellow,blue,black,white). Not sure how I'd have 2 reds onto one Xlr , as long as I stay consistent with the same color to the same numbers should it work?
2) okay, just going to wire my signal wire directly from the 7 on the PID to the negative and another 22gauge set from the 8 to the positive.
Am I doing this right?
1) OK gotcha - sorry about that. I didn't wire mine like Kal's since I used the stock 3-wire set on each temp probe (2 red, 1 white). The correlation of the pins at the XLR to the pins on the PID are all that matter, so any color you choose should be fine. The 3-wire RTD sensor uses has 2 wires connected to the same internal point (the red wires) and 1 wire connected to the other side of the resistor. So regardless of your color selection the 2 wires that should connect to pins 3 and 4 should measure as shorted together with an ohmeter (before you connect!). I don't know what the RTD100's resistance should be at room temp, but you should measure some nominal resistance between the lead going to pin 5 on the PID and either of the other 2 wires. Hope that makes sense...
2) I think you stated that backwards. Pin 7 on the PID (SYL-2352) is the plus (+) output and goes to the plus on the SSR. Pin 8 on the PID is the minus (-).
Best advice I have on whether or not you're doing this right is to trust Kal's guide. I read it so many times before I sat down to wire up my panel I think I had it burned in my brain.
Link Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:22 pm Post subject:
mrjofus1959 wrote:
Danzaslapped wrote:
1) i meant on the internals of the Xlr connector. The 22gauge signal wire has 6 colored wires internally (red,green,yellow,blue,black,white). Not sure how I'd have 2 reds onto one Xlr , as long as I stay consistent with the same color to the same numbers should it work?
2) okay, just going to wire my signal wire directly from the 7 on the PID to the negative and another 22gauge set from the 8 to the positive.
Am I doing this right?
1) OK gotcha - sorry about that. I didn't wire mine like Kal's since I used the stock 3-wire set on each temp probe (2 red, 1 white). The correlation of the pins at the XLR to the pins on the PID are all that matter, so any color you choose should be fine. The 3-wire RTD sensor uses has 2 wires connected to the same internal point (the red wires) and 1 wire connected to the other side of the resistor. So regardless of your color selection the 2 wires that should connect to pins 3 and 4 should measure as shorted together with an ohmeter (before you connect!). I don't know what the RTD100's resistance should be at room temp, but you should measure some nominal resistance between the lead going to pin 5 on the PID and either of the other 2 wires. Hope that makes sense...
2) I think you stated that backwards. Pin 7 on the PID (SYL-2352) is the plus (+) output and goes to the plus on the SSR. Pin 8 on the PID is the minus (-).
Best advice I have on whether or not you're doing this right is to trust Kal's guide. I read it so many times before I sat down to wire up my panel I think I had it burned in my brain.
Okay, got it. And yeah it was just me trying to read one tab and post here in another. I've been following Kals guide to a t. My issues are where I need to infer extra electrical information. I can brew, I can read, but I'm definitely not an electrical engineer _________________ Live the Dream
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 397 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Pontification Porter, Red Ale, Janet's Brown Ale, St Magnus Scottish 80, Fullers ESB
Link Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:29 pm Post subject:
Danzaslapped wrote:
Okay, got it. And yeah it was just me trying to read one tab and post here in another. I've been following Kals guide to a t. My issues are where I need to infer extra electrical information. I can brew, I can read, but I'm definitely not an electrical engineer
Kal did a nice job of setting this up so no EE is required I'd say. Being on myself I was initially hoping for a full schematic, but it's really not necessary and avoids overly complicating the build I'd say. One thing I would suggest is making a "debug" power cord that lets you check out everything but running the elements (and their LED lamps). I didn't bother thinking of that until I was done of course, so I just carried to box to the garage and powered up full tilt. If you're interested here's the debug cord I ended up building:
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