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orAL error on SYL-2352 help

 
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general_jah



Joined: 05 Jun 2017
Posts: 19
Location: Austin, TX


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 3:22 pm    Post subject: orAL error on SYL-2352 help Reply with quote


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Hey guys I was planning on brewing today and am getting this error orAL on my SYL-2352 PID controller that I purchased preassembled from TEE. Since I did not build this from the ground up I am not super experienced but I have been using the control panel for a few years now with many brews under my belt so everything was working fine until today.

I have gotten this error in the past when there is some sort of connection issue but it always resolved when I plugged it back in.

What has me stumped is I do not think it is the cable that plugs into the probe as I have switched out the HLT cable, which is where the problem is, with the mash tun cable (that works) and it still gives me the error, while the mash tun probe/cable report back fine.

Does this mean that the probe itself mounted to the HLT is defective?

Is it possible there is some sort of work around to get it to work without having to wait for a new part?

Thanks!

James
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10652
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, Belgian IPA, Red IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Wit, English Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi James,

See here for an explanation of "orAL" and what can be done to troubleshoot to figure out where the issue is: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25460
See the section "One of my PIDs displays "orAL". What does that mean?"

Quote:
Does this mean that the probe itself mounted to the HLT is defective?

If through the tests above the problem follows the probe tip itself, then yes.

If twisting/turning caused damage and you are handy with a soldering iron, you may be able to easily repair the probe yourself. Remove the four small screws from the back of the probe and slide the resistor and cable end out of the probe (you should not have to remove it from the pot or Tee). You will see one end of the resistor soldered to pin #2, and the other side soldered to either 1 or 3 with a jumper between the two. One of those points is most likely broken and/or making intermittent contact. A quick re-soldering is all that is needed.

If you need to get into the connector on the cable, plug the cable end into one of the probes to prevent it from spinning and rotate the winged portion counter clockwise, it will unscrew from the other section allowing you access to the connections. I would recommend de-soldering all 3 wires (if not already detached), trimming them back a little, and making sure there is a good solder connection.

Quote:
Is it possible there is some sort of work around to get it to work without having to wait for a new part?

See the link above, the section called "Can I test a PID without using a temperature probe?"

Cheers!

Kal

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general_jah



Joined: 05 Jun 2017
Posts: 19
Location: Austin, TX


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Hi James,

See here for an explanation of "orAL" and what can be done to troubleshoot to figure out where the issue is: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25460
See the section "One of my PIDs displays "orAL". What does that mean?"

Quote:
Does this mean that the probe itself mounted to the HLT is defective?

If through the tests above the problem follows the probe tip itself, then yes.

If twisting/turning caused damage and you are handy with a soldering iron, you may be able to easily repair the probe yourself. Remove the four small screws from the back of the probe and slide the resistor and cable end out of the probe (you should not have to remove it from the pot or Tee). You will see one end of the resistor soldered to pin #2, and the other side soldered to either 1 or 3 with a jumper between the two. One of those points is most likely broken and/or making intermittent contact. A quick re-soldering is all that is needed.

If you need to get into the connector on the cable, plug the cable end into one of the probes to prevent it from spinning and rotate the winged portion counter clockwise, it will unscrew from the other section allowing you access to the connections. I would recommend de-soldering all 3 wires (if not already detached), trimming them back a little, and making sure there is a good solder connection.

Quote:
Is it possible there is some sort of work around to get it to work without having to wait for a new part?

See the link above, the section called "Can I test a PID without using a temperature probe?"

Cheers!

Kal


thanks Kal so the good news is I pulled out the probe and yes one of the wires solder broke off, but as i was resoldering it the whole thing pulled out of the probe lol

So now i have it soldered but its disconnected. Is there a way to reattach it somehow?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10652
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, Belgian IPA, Red IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Wit, English Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you attach a picture of what you mean? It's normal for the tiny tip attached to the wires to slide right out of the stainless tube.

Kal

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general_jah



Joined: 05 Jun 2017
Posts: 19
Location: Austin, TX


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Can you attach a picture of what you mean? It's normal for the tiny tip attached to the wires to slide right out of the stainless tube.

Kal

ok great I just shoved them back in and it is working now! Though I am having some issues with the temperatures not matching now on my HLT and Mash Tun. They seem to be off by almost 8 degrees F.

Can these be calibrated manually?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10652
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, Belgian IPA, Red IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Wit, English Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two probes are now off? I thought you only fixed one? It doesn't make sense that a set that comprises of a temp probe tip, temp probe cable, and PID would all of a sudden read 8 F different if you didn't change anything. Or did you change something on both sets?

Or do you mean if you plug this single temp probe tip into either the MLT and HLT they're both off by 8F?
If that's case you may have a cold (poor) solder joint where you fixed it adding resistance which is throwing off the probe.

You can set the offset in the PID. It's the 'Pb' setting. See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup

Kal

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general_jah



Joined: 05 Jun 2017
Posts: 19
Location: Austin, TX


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Two probes are now off? I thought you only fixed one? It doesn't make sense that a set that comprises of a temp probe tip, temp probe cable, and PID would all of a sudden read 8 F different if you didn't change anything. Or did you change something on both sets?

Or do you mean if you plug this single temp probe tip into either the MLT and HLT they're both off by 8F?
If that's case you may have a cold (poor) solder joint where you fixed it adding resistance which is throwing off the probe.

You can set the offset in the PID. It's the 'Pb' setting. See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup

Kal


To clarify the only probe that wasn't working was the HLT. I soldered it as you suggested and the whole thing came out with the wire. So I just shoved it back in there and it is working.

But for some reason now it seems the temperature differential between the HLT and the Mash tun is more significant than it was before the probe got disconnected. I will play around with the Pb setting to see what I can do. Part of the problem is I am tryign to calibrate this while brewing too lol.

Thanks Kal!
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general_jah



Joined: 05 Jun 2017
Posts: 19
Location: Austin, TX


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal what temperature difference do you usually have in your system between the HLT and mash temp? 1 degree or does it match exactly?

for example if you have your HLT temp at 155F does your mash match that exactly?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10652
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, Belgian IPA, Red IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Wit, English Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

general_jah wrote:
Kal what temperature difference do you usually have in your system between the HLT and mash temp? 1 degree or does it match exactly?

Less than half a degree, so both MLT and HLT match. See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=327795#327795

for example if you have your HLT temp at 155F does your mash match that exactly?[/quote]
Within half a degree or so, yes. I set my HLT where I want my mash to be. See above for more info.
It's a common question. Nothing wrong with having an offset of course.

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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